Disc brake conversion, again... (1 Viewer)

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Hey all,
I know this has been covered to death, and I've spent hours searching and reading, but maybe someone can confirm these parts will work before I plunk down the credit card.

I have a '73 FJ40 with a Wilwood (I know) disc brake kit on the front.
My rear drums need work, and I'm not gonna throw good money after bad, so I'm swapping to rear discs. Also, my Master cylinder seems to be acting weird, so I'm going to replace that now too.

This is what *I think* I know..

Stock FJ80 non-ABS master cylinder. Supposed to bolt up to my stock brake booster?

Probably a good idea to add a proportioning valve

I think I'd like a kit based on GM rear calipers, maybe GM rotors? Any other rear disc kit suggestions?

JTO sells what looks like a complete kit, but I know, JTO..

Also it looks like Poser might sell some of the components, I'll shoot him a PM. Any other suggestions?

Looks like Ill need to get a decent double flare tool to do my tubing. Rigid tool for 3/16 line?
Amazon product
3/16th line and 10mm x1.0 flare nuts?

So how's my list look?
I know all this info is out there for the searching but just needed put it down in one place and get some confirmation.
Thanks All !!!
 

Pighead

Stop calling it an FJ
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I went with Poser's brackets and discs. You don't need (want) slotted discs...
Just installed city racers booster and an 80 series non-ABS MC. Love it.
Looks like a fine flaring tool, I just borrowed one...
Edit: I am not using a proportioning valve.
 
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I went with Poser's brackets and discs. You don't need (want) slotted discs...
Just installed city racers booster and an 80 series non-ABS MC. Love it.
Looks like a fine flaring tool, I just borrowed one...

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. 👍
 
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Hey All,
Gathering up parts and pieces.

Has anyone tried this brake flaring tool? Titan double-flaring for 3/16" line. Has good reviews and looks like it might do the trick?
I'm a little concerned on the SAE 3/16" lines with 45-degree double flare. It looks like 45-degree is right, but I'm not positive.
and tool.
Amazon product
Also, anyone have a favorite proportioning valve they like? I'm looking at the Wilwood now, but willing to spend a little more on something better.

Thanks.
 
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1911

chupacabra
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Has anyone tried this brake flaring tool? Titan double-flaring for 3/16" line. Has good reviews and looks like it might do the trick?
I'm a little concerned on the SAE 3/16" lines with 45-degree double flare. It looks like 45-degree is right, but I'm not positive.
and tool.
Amazon product

Yes, I have that exact tool and it worked great. Works in small spaces (in the engine bay) too. Every flare I made with it worked perfectly and sealed tight.


Also, anyone have a favorite proportioning valve they like? I'm looking at the Wilwood now, but willing to spend a little more on something better.

Thanks.

I'm running the Wilwood one, but could never tell that it did much if anything.
 
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Yes, I have that exact tool and it worked great. Works in small spaces in the engine bay) too. Every flare I made with it worked perfectly and sealed tight.




I'm running the Wilwood one, but could never tell that it did much if anything.

Thanks a lot buddy! Just the confirmation I was looking for.
I think I read in another thread... you said your rear brakes were locking up and you were going to try an FJ80 Master cylinder. Was that you, and did you get the brake balance sorted out?

I have Wilwoods front, Monte Carlo's rear, non-ABS FJ80 Master and booster. I plan on adding a Wilwood proportioning valve, and am hoping it all plays nice together.

The wildcard is the front Wilwood discs. There's no telling how they'll balance with the rear Chevys. Hopefully stronger than the rears to help the balance issue.

B.
 

1911

chupacabra
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Thanks a lot buddy! Just the confirmation I was looking for.
I think I read in another thread... you said your rear brakes were locking up and you were going to try an FJ80 Master cylinder. Was that you, and did you get the brake balance sorted out?

So, I had done the four-wheel disc conversion years earlier, using Monte Carlo rear calipers, (stock for my year) Toyota front calipers, the Wilwood proportioning valve, and retaining my stock 1980 master cyl and booster.

The brakes were better than drums, but I never could get the proportioning valve to do much - seemed like no matter how many or few turns on it, the back brakes still locked up way before the front.

About a year ago, my factory original master cylinder finally sh!t the bed, so I replaced it with a (recommended) non-ABS FZJ80 master cyl and also a new City Racer booster at the same time (also when I bought the Titan flaring tool). The new master and booster made a huge improvement in my brakes, and without touching the Wilwood proportioning valve, the front to rear balance was much better. It's not perfect, but I have to really stand on the brakes to get the rear to lock up first now. I guess I should try to adjust the proportioning valve again, but haven't bothered to yet. Maybe I just got a bad proportioning valve - couldn't say.

Good luck with balancing yours, and let us know how it turns out.
 
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Thanks very much for taking the time to type that out, and it's great to hear you got your system sorted out.

It sounds like our systems will be configured very similarly other than the front discs, so that's encouraging.

I've ask a lot of questions planning for this job, and I plan on finally summarizing what components and tools I used in case it can help anyone out.

Thanks again for the great info!
B.
 
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Slightly different setup, it I’ll vouch for the @Poser set up on my 73 with 35’s. They work great. Main difference in my set up over others is I’m using a ~93 mini truck booster and master cylinder. I can’t remember what proportioning valve, but I haven’t had to mess with it- so not sure if it’s needed or I just got lucky on the initial set up. Stops on a dime without swinging the back around in a panick stop.
I think the booster/master cost me around $50 at the pick n pull. I made sure it still had fluid in the reservoirs, increasing the odds it was in working order. The only mod I had to do to it was the pushrod. As I recall, I used parts from both the mini truck and the40.
 

1911

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So why don't any of the post above talk about a 2 lb. residual valve for the rear disc brakes ???

The non-ABS FZJ80 master cylinder comes stock with the right residual pressure for discs on all four wheels; if you use this master then you won't have to change or worry about residual valves.
 
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The non-ABS FZJ80 master cylinder comes stock with the right residual pressure for discs on all four wheels; if you use this master then you won't have to change or worry about residual valves.
This is the assumption I'm working from. Please inform me if I'm wrong.
 

1911

chupacabra
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10-4, thanks for the heads up.

No problem Jim. That is one reason why that particular master cyl is such a deservedly popular choice for 4-wheel disc conversions on 40's. The early FZJ80 was the first Land Cruiser in the U.S. to come with discs on all fours from the factory.
 

JDNs78FJ40

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Thanks very much for taking the time to type that out, and it's great to hear you got your system sorted out.

It sounds like our systems will be configured very similarly other than the front discs, so that's encouraging.

I've ask a lot of questions planning for this job, and I plan on finally summarizing what components and tools I used in case it can help anyone out.

Thanks again for the great info!
B.
Please take and post lots of pictures. I’ll be doing this in the early fall on my 78. TIA
 

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