Thanks for the info. Is this the blade you are talking about? As far as getting in there with a dremel and starting a notch. I don't think it's going to happen due to being such a restricted space.
Disabling the AHC and AVS systems, no warning lights. (1 Viewer)
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@jbyrd78 if you haven’t already purchased those blades I would try a 22mm crows foot maybe this one:
Or a more traditional one:
If you pay for the shipping, I’ll send you my 22mm diy breaker bar. Just pass it onto the next lx owner wanting to delete ahc.
Or a more traditional one:
If you pay for the shipping, I’ll send you my 22mm diy breaker bar. Just pass it onto the next lx owner wanting to delete ahc.
bloc
SILVER Star
Have used Diablo blades, they are legit, though expensive.
But I definitely still have a big variety of different blade pitches and profiles in more basic blades because it really just comes down to what I’m cutting.
Cutting at the red line would still require another cut to get the top of the shock shaft out. Make your cut at the white line, which is a rubber bushing around the upper shock shaft. It should all come apart at the top mount then.
But I definitely still have a big variety of different blade pitches and profiles in more basic blades because it really just comes down to what I’m cutting.
Cutting at the red line would still require another cut to get the top of the shock shaft out. Make your cut at the white line, which is a rubber bushing around the upper shock shaft. It should all come apart at the top mount then.
I'll DM you.
Thank you for that offer b/c I'm all about that DIY breaker bar you made. I will pay it forward afterwards as well. Did you have to remove some of your exhaust to be able to use the bar efficiently? That's what I'm trying to avoid.
I didn’t remove any of my exhaust. But my exhaust also isn’t oem. The bend going up and over the axle is the same design and same diameter and that wasn’t in the way.
Any info on the Lenox blades? Apparently from reviews I read, lenox blades are what rescue crews use to cut open trapped cars.
Also thanks for pointing out which line to cut at as well.
bloc
SILVER Star
Funny you use that anecdote, that's actually one of the things I do with sawzall blades. We have two diablos on the ladder truck and I have two or three in my personal tools at home. We bought those diablos on the truck with personal funds though, the department prefers to just throw a dozen cheap blades at things.. which frankly gets the job done really well most of the time. There are vehicles with special steel in places that a carbide blade can help on, but we have even better tools for stuff like that. And now that I think about it, in the context of a shock shaft, anything carbide is probably better than something not.
I just haven't used Lenox blades yet, though I assume they compete and are pretty good as well. I'm just used to what I have.
There are definitely times that a rescue team's choice of tool is based on that one being superior, but plenty of times it just comes down to what's available when needed, or more specifically who a govt entity has a contract with. We're actually working with Makita on developing some cutting tools that can be modified from the factory in ways that benefit us. Really excited to see what batteries can do for some of our ventilation saws.. hell even the jaws of life are battery powered these days.
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So you are a fire fighter, or is your job title more in depth? Either way, what you do, I have mad respect for, that's not always an easy job.
I used to want to be a fire fighter, then I kind of lost my way with wanting to go that route when I was in the military. I have friends who followed thru with becoming fire fighters and they have no complaints about it. I like to march to the beat of my own drum, so I decided go back to school and get a job as a surgical tech and work in the operating room because I hate blood
I travel around the state for my job and sometimes we get to use saws, but nothing fancy like what you guy's use.
This improvised tool is the way to go. I made something similar and didn't have to remove anything to get the upper shock nuts removed. I have stock exhaust and it wasn't an issue.
Somewhat wrapped everything up yesterday. I just need to torque everything to spec. Huge shout out to @Wafflroo & @B Hans for recommending the diy breaker bar. All you need to make this concoction is, take a trip to Lowe's, purchase a 22mm standard socket with a 1/2" drive, and a piece of 1-1/4" x 1/8" x 3ft welding steel. Weld it together, and BAM! I also purchased an additional 22mm w/ 1/2" drive socket, and cut off the head of a 14mm bolt and welded it to the top of the socket, just to have on standby.
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Unfortunately, as good as these diy tools were, the nuts on my rear shocks were seized on, and I ended up bending the breaker bar. I ended up having to cut the nuts off. The nuts on the LX570 are actually easier to cut off than on a 200 series L.C. With a 12" sawzall blade, from the wheel well with the tires on, you can cut right above the washer before the bushings, and you will cut the nut off, and have no issues removing the shock.
It looks like I am going to have to go back into the front suspension, and remove the OEM spacers because the front is sitting higher than the rear. I also noticed when I turned the car on last nite, not only is my AFS light blinking, but my CDL light is also flashing. This caused my traction control & ABS light to come on as well.
Has anyone had this happen, and if so, what was the remedy? I have not unplugged my battery, anything from the AHC ECU, or the passenger side fuse box yet.
Has anyone had this happen, and if so, what was the remedy? I have not unplugged my battery, anything from the AHC ECU, or the passenger side fuse box yet.
bloc
SILVER Star
Have you pulled it out of the garage yet? Due to the LCA angle the front suspension binds when setting it back on the ground. It’ll settle quite a bit once you drive it a few feet.
The factory 10mm spacer should level a rig on stick springs nicely.
No I haven't. I'm getting ready to go out there, and remove the 3rd row seats, and unplug the AHC ECU, and pull the two fuses in the passenger glove box.
I forgot about the settling part. Will the front settle more than the rear, and will removing the 3rd row seats help give some lift in the rear?
I also read somewhere on here that the later 200 series models were made to sit more level and that you technically didn't need the front spacers. Do you know if there is anything truth to that?
bloc
SILVER Star
Settling after being put on the ground doesn’t impact the rear because of the solid axle. I haven’t heard about later ones siting more level.. in fact one of the rear springs didn’t change from 2011 all the way to 2021, though the other did. Third row removal will also increase height noticeably.
Yes. I disconnected the battery, then pulled everything and let it sit for about an hour while I torqued what I could. I guess I'll just use my OBD II reader and scan for codes and see what it says.
