Dirtgypsy goes SOA

[Dirtgypsy]

Any shots of the rear upper shock mounts? It looks like a great shock angle.

Dylan

I used the stock ones for now. My cross member is still solid.

You really only need the static length because the suspension doesn't move enough to create significant driveshaft movement. A good driveline shop knows what to do with your static measurement.

I guess I should amend to say a 2.5" SUA lift.

I left you a message but in case you don't get it: who is doing your driveline?

I sent mine to six states and so far it is like $180 for a re-tube!!!

Looks GREAT Clint!
Id love to find out how that rear brake line does when at full droop. It looks like it COULD be a little short, but it will probably be okay.
Mine is STUPID long, so I wouldnt mind shortening it up a bit if I could find a better alternative.
Nice call removing the gear box to weld the DS tower in. I did NOT do that, and it was a BEOTCH welding that front side in right next to that.
It all looks so pretty! It will almost be a shame to get the gear dirty.


Chicago

I think the brakeline will be o.k. but we will see. I ended up taking it off of the housing and moving it up on the pumpkin. Looks kinda silly the way it ended up so it may get moved again. As far as the tower I have not removed the box yet. I plan on welding the hole, then one side for now. The box will get pulled next month or early june for the tap and hydro steer. I will weld up the box side then.

I'm excited to see the surfer this saturday. I think you're going to make it! Maybe we can do a track bar build party before rubiton because I'd like to add one as well.

I think I am too!! I do hope that nothing howls, grinds, or whatever when it gets on the road.

As far as the trac bar I am farming it out to Metal Tech. I am just hammered with lack of time from here till the trip. Most of my cruiser time will be steering, saginaw pump, int/exh gasket and tune up stuff. I am just running out of energy trying to do this and maintain family, work and personal sanity!!

Updates later today.

Clint

 

[rookie54]

you try driveline tech? NICE WORK!

 

[Dirtgypsy]

you try driveline tech? NICE WORK!

I think it was you who posted a few pages back in regards to driveline tech wasn't it? At any rate I did not check with them but portfj62 had some work done on his stuff there and his prices STARTED at $400.

I am sure part of it is the mark up at the local Napa parts for the travel expenses. After thinking about the price it is worth it to me to not have to drive 45 mins one way to get it done.

Well it is on the tires people!! I still battled with the wire feed and the welder but at least it is solid.

Passenger side:

Drivers side:

Front brakelines/ lower shock mounts:

Check it out suckers:

Pic from a 4 year old, nice angle if I do say so myself:

Last items are to weld in the rear lower shock mounts, balance the tires, alignment, trip to Metal Tech for clearance stuff and wire in the front locker.

Feels great to have it on the rubber side down.



Clint

 

[Cruiserdrew]

That is some strong excellent work, Clint.

Looking forward to seeing it in person. Remind me that I wanted to see the RuffStuff lower shock mounts installed.

I am surprised the driveshaft thing is such an issue-costs $75-100 around here to get them lengthened and balanced.

 

[PortFJ62]

Almost done! Looks really good.
So your probably gonna need to carry that milk carton around with to get in from now on huh? Now since the wifey is glad it wrapping up you should tell her about your next project, the mini truck.

 

[jmkfj60]

Looks Great Clint, Nice Work.

Josh

 

[Scotty]

What pinion angle are you running up front. That looks really high even for a C&T'd front axle.

Appears to be around 25-30*.

 

[Granite Grinder]

That just looks so..... right. Nice work!!
GG

 

[Dirtgypsy]

That is some strong excellent work, Clint.

Looking forward to seeing it in person. Remind me that I wanted to see the RuffStuff lower shock mounts installed.

I am surprised the driveshaft thing is such an issue-costs $75-100 around here to get them lengthened and balanced.

I will be sure to post up pics thursday or friday of the mounts for you.

The price threw me for a loop as well. But it was the cheapest I found out of 4 places!

Thanks again Drew!

Almost done! Looks really good.
So your probably gonna need to carry that milk carton around with to get in from now on huh? Now since the wifey is glad it wrapping up you should tell her about your next project, the mini truck.

Actually getting in was not bad but the first time getting out it was like missing a step as there was an extra 4" of lift there to negotiate.

Jay is sooo ready to be done with tucks for a while. I think the mini truck will wait till after vacation next year!

Looks Great Clint, Nice Work.

Josh

Thanks Josh. I still need to get with you on the bumper. I have not forgotten I swear!

What pinion angle are you running up front. That looks really high even for a C&T'd front axle.

Appears to be around 25-30*.

Not sure what it is but I will double check. I think it was like 14* I am running a DC front driveline so we just set the pinion to point straight at the transfer.

That just looks so..... right. Nice work!!
GG

Thanks GG I appreciate it!


Clint

 

[brokenparts]

I'm curious what brand of wire you were using when you were having the feed problems?


Great work!

 

[ElliottB]

Keep up the good work, it looks great!

 

[Dirtgypsy]

I'm curious what brand of wire you were using when you were having the feed problems?


Great work!

Tanks zach. The splatter you see in the pics is .30 flux core from my 110. The wire feed issue is from my buddies Lincoln 200 with .23?? wire. I know I should be running different wire but it is what is on the welder. I also think a lot of my issues is the fact I suck at welding and I was welding upside down and sideways.

Keep up the good work, it looks great!

Thanks I appreciate it!

Clint

 

[Tapage]

That's looks great .. and one of the most popular thread those days prove it .. !

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The truck looks great Dirtygypsy. Get it out and show it flexing!

 

[brokenparts]

do you remember what brand it was.... there was a post on another forum about how Radnor wire was giving a lot of people a hard time. That's the wire I was using when I was trying to box in my frame but was having issues. My welds got about 75% better by simply switching wire. I was curious if you were using Radnor wire too.

 

[Dirtgypsy]

do you remember what brand it was.... there was a post on another forum about how Radnor wire was giving a lot of people a hard time. That's the wire I was using when I was trying to box in my frame but was having issues. My welds got about 75% better by simply switching wire. I was curious if you were using Radnor wire too.

I don't recall the brand but Radnor sounds familiar. It didn't matter what heat setting, wire speed or gas pressure it was on. I would get a decent start then it would just puddle up and fall to the ground or burn through. If it was flat I could weld anything but verticle or upside down I just made booger welds all over and ended up grinding, sanding and filler welds in most areas.

I still need to fill in the rear shock mounts so we will see how it goes!

Clint

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Radnor is an AirGas brand and is actually very good welding wire, as is Lincoln who I think makes the Radnor. Anyway, I've been using Radnor or Lincoln and no issues, though it's solid and not flux core.

 

[brokenparts]

Radnor is an AirGas brand and is actually very good welding wire, as is Lincoln who I think makes the Radnor. Anyway, I've been using Radnor or Lincoln and no issues, though it's solid and not flux core.

usually yes... but I guess there was "bad batch" released not too long ago. I've used Radnor in the past with good results but had problems with the last roll or two I've had. Just curious since Clint and I are in the same general area and using wire that was probably purchased at the same approx. time..

Hi-jack over.

 

[esh]

Took my old rear shaft in to get it made into a front.. 130 down here from Six States. The main shaft has tapers at either end so he couldn't just cut and weld it. And of course he was out of tube so hopefully I'll have a front for SOLV.

Rear (from a 60) is so close, about 1/2" too long. I'm just not gonna wheel it this weekend.

So if your quote was front and rear, that's a nice deal.

Then I wasted the rest of the day at GI Joes out of business sale (damn that carhart) .. and now off to work

 

[jmkfj60]

Thanks Josh. I still need to get with you on the bumper. I have not forgotten I swear!






Clint

Clint you have been busy, Just let me know. No Rush
Josh