Dirtgypsy goes SOA (1 Viewer)

[Dirtgypsy]

Took my old rear shaft in to get it made into a front.. 130 down here from Six States. The main shaft has tapers at either end so he couldn't just cut and weld it. And of course he was out of tube so hopefully I'll have a front for SOLV.

Rear (from a 60) is so close, about 1/2" too long. I'm just not gonna wheel it this weekend.

So if your quote was front and rear, that's a nice deal.

Then I wasted the rest of the day at GI Joes out of business sale (damn that carhart) .. and now off to work

joes sale was a joke. sorry they got some of your money
(but then again 20% carhart is not too shabby)

Actually the $170 was for just the front! I am still using the stock rear for now.

Clint you have been busy, Just let me know. No Rush
Josh

Thanks I appreciate it. Give me another week to let things settle down here and I will be sure to get a hold of you!

Clint

 

[72rockcruiser]

Very clean work. nice!

 

[boots4]

We missed you saturday, what happened with the driveshaft?

 

[Dirtgypsy]

I tried to use the stock rear but for whatever reason it just did not like the angles and was binding horribly. The stock did not seem like it was out of sequence but it was just not happy. I talked to 2 or 3 people that said similar things about issues using the stock driveline.

It was worth a shot.


I took a DC down to get it rebuilt and the best I could find in Portland was .095 wall tubing and they said it would be between $109 and $225 to get it done. I hope to pick it up later today.

Otherwise I am taking a break till wed doing some much needed yardwork and heading to the Zoo today with the family to enjoy the sun while it lasts.

How was the cleanup? Did the club have a decent turnout?

Clint

 

[boots4]

The clean up went well. I just posted up some pics on the local forum and Esh added some fun facts.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I tried to use the stock rear but for whatever reason it just did not like the angles and was binding horribly. The stock did not seem like it was out of sequence but it was just not happy. I talked to 2 or 3 people that said similar things about issues using the stock driveline.

It was worth a shot.


I took a DC down to get it rebuilt and the best I could find in Portland was .095 wall tubing and they said it would be between $109 and $225 to get it done. I hope to pick it up later today.

Otherwise I am taking a break till wed doing some much needed yardwork and heading to the Zoo today with the family to enjoy the sun while it lasts.

How was the cleanup? Did the club have a decent turnout?

Clint

So my SOA project just got supercharged and it looks like I'll be in the SOA club by the end of may, so I have a question regarding your rear drive shaft. You are using a DC and having it re-tubed to work in the rear, correct? How did you do your measurement? Which truck did you get your DC from? Will the flanges from an 85 pickup match up to the 60 pattern?

 

[esh]

So my SOA project just got supercharged and it looks like I'll be in the SOA club by the end of may, so I have a question regarding your rear drive shaft. You are using a DC and having it re-tubed to work in the rear, correct? How did you do your measurement? Which truck did you get your DC from? Will the flanges from an 85 pickup match up to the 60 pattern?

Holy mother of signatures! Was there some reply text hidden in there??

I don't believe they will, but will compare mine... yeah just eye-balling it, it is at least as small as the FJ40 flange.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Holy mother of signatures! Was there some reply text hidden in there??

Haha, I couldn't let that LAPS joke fade into the back of people's minds. It's WAY too funny

I don't believe they will, but will compare mine... yeah just eye-balling it, it is at least as small as the FJ40 flange.

Are the u-joints the same size? Conceivably I could swap out the companion flanges from my stock drive shaft onto the pickup drive shaft, right?

 

[esh]

I am going to teach you to fish.. from the Pirate4x4 "2.0" FAQ for Toyota pickups, etc.. forum-

driveshaft tech - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
driveshaft tech - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

To check u-joints, you can go to-

OpenX grab the trucks you are interested in, get the part#s for the ujoints

Then go to-

https://www.toyotapartscenter.com/ enter the p/n, see if they change them to a common # or list it as depricated, etc..

 

[Dirtgypsy]

So my SOA project just got supercharged and it looks like I'll be in the SOA club by the end of may, so I have a question regarding your rear drive shaft. You are using a DC and having it re-tubed to work in the rear, correct? How did you do your measurement? Which truck did you get your DC from? Will the flanges from an 85 pickup match up to the 60 pattern?

I am using DC from the front an early 60 on both my front AND rear. I will save you a world of hurt (or at least 2 days worth of labor and grief that I just went through) so listen up:

The slip yolk from your stock 60 driveline will slide right into the slip shaft of the early model 60 DC. No need to source anything but 2 81-84 front DC from a 60 series and then franeknstein your stocks into these. PAY the $$$ from Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters for repalcement drive flanges for your TC outputs (about $100) don't just "drill them out bro" I fought for 3 hours today doing just this and ended up being about 1/16 of an f*&#$%ng inch off and can not get the front driveline to sit flush with the flange.

Once you have those set in place and your pinions set front and rear take your measurments. My front ended up being 4" longer and the rear was spot on for using the stock length. Also my pinion angle in the front ended up being about 5* higher than original measurments at close to 20*

Take your flange to flange measurments to a driveline shop, plop down about $300 plus or minus depending on condition of ujoints etc and you got yourself some drivelines.

Front pinion angle- a little steep but just fine:

Cross member cut and welded for front driveline clearance:

Rear driveline and another angle for cross member. Also another view of front pinion angle. Looks worse than it is in this pic:

Rear lower Ruff-Stuff shock bracket pic for Drew:

The front pinion angle irks me a bit but not much to do about it now. It will wheel just fine. The rear lower shock brackets are nice quality however I am going to have to grind down a nut to get it to fit the axle tube side of the mount. Ruff-Stuff needs to make these about 1" deeper. No big deal as I figure I will just put a tack weld on the bolt head to help keep things tight.

I was able to finally seat the rear driveline this eve and take it for a spin and IT WAS AWESOME!



A little vibes out of the front wheels/ tires that I am attributing to the beadlocks not balancing well but otherwise very good. I was quickly humbled by the guys at Metal Tech today who noticed my crap welds in a few spots and thought the truck sat too high. What ever I was just happy to have it back on the road and the height is growing on me!! I also just have an old 4.11 diff in it for now as I was trying to figure out of the diff was somehow atributing to my balance issues. It appears to be just the driveline binding issue as mentioned above.

I will be ordering new TC flanges tomorrow along with a few driveline bolts from Kurt and back at it again next week to keep working out the bugs.

Keep on 4 wheeling

Clint

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Well s***, thanks guys! You just answered all of my drive shaft questions in two posts!!!

 

[boots4]

... don't just "drill them out bro" I fought for 3 hours today...

That's too bad you had some difficulties with the flange. I clamped the yoke on the flange and used it as a guide to drill my holes and they lined up great.

Sounds like it's really close to a trial run to see how everything is working together. I'd like to be there. Are you going to get the wrap bar installed first?

 

[esh]

Equal, it's what's for dinner.. or whatever the larger diameter stuff is that won't blow out your valve stems when you are airing down.

 

[Dirtgypsy]

That's too bad you had some difficulties with the flange. I clamped the yoke on the flange and used it as a guide to drill my holes and they lined up great.

Sounds like it's really close to a trial run to see how everything is working together. I'd like to be there. Are you going to get the wrap bar installed first?

I wanted to use the clamp method but because of the DC my drill angle would have been less than a 90* to the flange. I made a pilot and then put it in a drill press only to find I was just far enough off to kill the flush mount. Talked with Kurt today and new flanges are on the way.

I talked with Metal Tech about the trac bar and it looks like they are slow enough that they should be able to get to it next week. I am just waiting on funds at the moment.

I would like to have some backup for first out wheeling trip just in case something gives that I overlooked. Lets tenativley plan for first week of May. Just give me some dates you are free and you and I will go break something.

Equal, it's what's for dinner.. or whatever the larger diameter stuff is that won't blow out your valve stems when you are airing down.

Yeah I have that in the back of my mind but $hit I am tired of spending money right now and payday is not for another week

I will see how things go but I need to at least get this daily drivable again.

Time to take another break so probably no updates or bling bling pics till next week.

Clint

 

[boots4]

I would like to have some backup for first out wheeling trip just in case something gives that I overlooked. Lets tenativley plan for first week of May. Just give me some dates you are free and you and I will go break something.

...

Yeah I have that in the back of my mind but $hit I am tired of spending money right now and payday is not for another week

Here are a few to choose from.

May 4,5,6 11,12 18,19,20

Regarding Equal, I was told to stay away from it from the tire shop I bought my tire spoons from. He gave me this sample.

He seemed to think better of this stuff.

These are made from glass while dynabeads are made from ceramic. I've got a bunch of air soft pellets I took out of my tires when I was trying them out Clint if you want to try them out. The thing I like about the pellets was that they wouldn't blow out if you used a tire deflator that would pull the valve core for faster deflating. Since I have wide tires, this type of balancing wasn't effective and actually made it worse. Those were my findings.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Here are a few to choose from.

May 4,5,6 11,12 18,19,20

Regarding Equal, I was told to stay away from it from the tire shop I bought my tire spoons from. He gave me this sample.

He seemed to think better of this stuff.

These are made from glass while dynabeads are made from ceramic. I've got a bunch of air soft pellets I took out of my tires when I was trying them out Clint if you want to try them out. The thing I like about the pellets was that they wouldn't blow out if you used a tire deflator that would pull the valve core for faster deflating. Since I have wide tires, this type of balancing wasn't effective and actually made it worse. Those were my findings.

How wide are your tires? Think this dynamic balancing thing would work on a 12.5" wide tire? I was planning on using those plastic pellets to balance my tires because I heard it was hard to find a shop to balance a 35" tire around here.

 

[Dirtgypsy]

Here are a few to choose from.

May 4,5,6 11,12 18,19,20

I've got a bunch of air soft pellets I took out of my tires when I was trying them out Clint if you want to try them out. QUOTE]

I will check with my scheduler and get back to you on those dates.

I will give those beads a shot. I keep thinking that I may want to go to an 8 inch wheel. If I get these to balance though I am already invested so they will stay for a while.

Clint

BTW Mike has a WIDE tire like 15.5?

 

[boots4]

Yes, my tires are 15.5" wide on a 10" wide rim. I've read responses to dynabeads in a 12.5" wide tire balancing them well so it's worth a shot. I definitely like the idea of dynamic balancing but it doesn't laterally balance (side to side) tires very well so the wider the tire the less lateral balance they can provide.

When I took out all balance my vibs actually went down quite a bit. Right now they are unbalanced and while I get some vibs at 70mph it's acceptable to me. MTs will never ride real smooth, there will always be some small vib from the large tread blocks pounding the pavement. That's part of the compromise of running a mud tire onroad. If you can mount your own tires and are up for experimentation I suggest trying no balancing media as a starting base. Then you'll know if the media is really helping when you put some in.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yes, my tires are 15.5" wide on a 10" wide rim. I've read responses to dynabeads in a 12.5" wide tire balancing them well so it's worth a shot. I definitely like the idea of dynamic balancing but it doesn't laterally balance (side to side) tires very well so the wider the tire the less lateral balance they can provide.

When I took out all balance my vibs actually went down quite a bit. Right now they are unbalanced and while I get some vibs at 70mph it's acceptable to me. MTs will never ride real smooth, there will always be some small vib from the large tread blocks pounding the pavement. That's part of the compromise of running a mud tire onroad. If you can mount your own tires and are up for experimentation I suggest trying no balancing media as a starting base. Then you'll know if the media is really helping when you put some in.

Excellent point. Now to load the beads, you can't just load them through the valve stem, you have to pop a bead, right? Would you recommend starting with the plastic pellets or with the glass beads first?

 

[boots4]

I kinda depends on your pocket book. The plastic airsoft pellets are cheaper but I would think the counteract or dynabeads would last longer and distribute weight better due to their smaller size. The bigger airsoft would be eaiser to take in and out using a vacuum to collect and yes the tire bead would have to be popped to get them in. With the others, just take out the valve core and fashion a little funnel out of some kind of squirt bottle to pour them in. It takes a while and take care not to dump too fast to clog up the stem and lose product.