Builds Dirt J "Dirt Cruiser" Build

[Dirt J]

On disassembly I noticed some damage to the threads on the PS spindle.

Posted here to get some input on repair vs replace options.

Ended up using this tool to repair the threads. Used grease on the threads when installing the 54mm axle nuts to try to keep from boogering up the nuts or threads further. Went back together without issue.

Based on the shape of the damage, my guess is the claw washer came loose at some point in life of the rig. Or a really forceful install, ignoring the keyway for the claw washer...?

 

[Dirt J]

The inside of the spindle tube was also damaged on the PS spindle.

Pretty sure I found the culprit:

The spindle roller bearing was missing one of the rollers. My guess is when it dislodged it migrated to the end of the tube causing the chattering damage shown.

Per the thread linked prior, confirmed that the stub axle does not actually touch/ride in the tub, so no concern with it no longer being smooth. So hit it with some sandpaper and rolled with it.

 

[Dirt J]

DS put back together:

Pile of old bones (plus a good girl):

 

[Dirt J]

Hub flanges showing wear:

#2 LCA Frame Bushing showing separation from outer shell:

 

[Dirt J]

Aisin part-time hubs from the Cruiser Outfitters kit installed.

Couple thoughts from installing the Aisin hubs from Cruiser Teq/Cruiser Outfitters part-time kit (TC spool going in soon). Couple lessons learned the hard way (also posted in the part-time master thread here):

1) Make sure the round and star-shaped gaskets are installed in the correct locations: star between hub base and spacer, and round between spacer and outer locking lever portion.

2) Don't bear down on the small outer bolts -- just snug. I thought one needed to be a bit more snug and snapped it. No torque specs are given for it, but there a lock washer on them, so snug should be good.

3) Don't overgrease the inner spring/gear portion of the hub. There was a light coating of white grease when I got them. I packed a ton of red wheel bearing grease around the spring because the lever was not locking/unlocking easily. But this prevented the gear portion from sliding inward when turned to the lock position.

4) There are two ears on the spring/gear portion (outside lever part) of the hub. Those have to align to particular slots in the inner, stationary part of the hub. You can fully insert the outer part in the wrong orientation -- the giveaway will be that the spring can't push the gear into the inner hub portion.

5) A 3 3/4" hole saw should be exactly what is needed to make the correct hole in the center caps. I only could only round up a 3 1/2", so I filed down the rest of the way. Basically you need to remove all the way to the outer bevel on the early 16" LC wheel center caps (remove entire inner portion that the logo is on).

Good reference video:

 

[Dirt J]

Did some maintenance this weekend:

Replaced fuel filter. Looked original (314k).

Used this video for reference:

 

[Dirt J]

New filter:

Clips installed:

 

[Dirt J]

Flushed the power steering fluid and cleaned the reservoir. Used @2001LC guidance here. Soaked in Purple Power mix.

 

[Dirt J]

The return (3/8" diameter, 29" long) and suction (5/8", 18" long) PS hoses were so brittle that they crushed when I squeezed them to remove. Replaced with these from NAPA and Advance Auto.

 

[Dirt J]

Started work on my transfer case this week. I picked up a spare from the junkyard, so my DD LC won't be out of service while I work on this.

Installing the following:

• part-time spool
• 3.1 low range gear set (Sumo)
• 10% high range underdrive gear set (Sumo)
• Cruiser Outfitters "conversion kit" which consists of:
  • new input shaft (80-series),
  • new front input shaft bearing,
  • input shaft snap rings
  • new idler gear (high)
• all 10 bearings (and corresponding races) in the t-case and f/r extension housings
• all seals

Once I got knee deep into this, I figured out that the only remaining original parts left in the gear stacks after this will be:

• Shift fork and shaft
• Idler shaft clutch sleeve
• On the center diff (output shaft):
  • front drive gear
  • high speed bushing
  • clutch hub
  • clutch sleeve
  • output shaft/"front case"

Since this will be all new gears riding against other new gears, there should be no "old gear wear/break-in vs new gears" issues. (i.e. any gear noise can't be attributed to that).

Below is a listing of part numbers that I compiled for ordering from Amayama/Partsouq.

Part Number	Description	Location	Notes
90311-50014	Front output seal	Front Housing
90521-84002	TC Front Ext Housing - Inner Bearing Snap Ring	Front Housing
90521-84003	TC Front Ext Housing - Inner Bearing Snap Ring	Front Housing
90363-40083	Front Output Bearing	Front Housing
90366-35060	Idler Bearing - Front	Idler
90366-33002	Idler Bearing - Rear	Idler
90364-38016	Idler Needle Bearings	Idler
90311-48025 (cross 90311-48018)	Input shaft seal	Input
36211-60030	80-series input shaft	Input	comes with CO conversion kit
90363-50003	Input Shaft Front Bearing	Input	comes with CO conversion kit
90363-35030	Input Shaft Rear Bearing	Input
90366-60008	Output Shaft Rear Bearing (behind spool)	Center Diff/Output	comes with spool
90366-48001	Output Shaft - Front Bearing - in front of high speed gear	Center Diff/Output
90364-56001	Output Needle Bearings	Center Diff/Output
90363-50005	TC Rear Output Bearing (rearmost)	Rear Housing
33325-60090	Rear Output Dust Shield	Rear Housing
90311-58008	Rear Output Seal	Rear Housing
04362-60050	Complete Gasket/Seal Kit	-	Other seals listed not needed with this. Contains all seals.

 

[zgfiredude]

Hey, great write up that I'm now following............I am on the hunt (hopefully have found) for a 100 LC now and will use this as one of several guides for checking out what I end up with!

 

[Dirt J]

Sumo Underdrive Gears

Replacement Spool with Bearing pre-pressed and plastic spacer:

 

[Dirt J]

Cruiser Outfitters 100-series TC conversion kit.

L-R: 80-series input shaft; idler gear/shaft, front bearing for input shaft

(didn't get a pic of the low gear box)

 

[Dirt J]

Old gear set:

Old gears sxs with new gears (less bearings):

 

[Dirt J]

New input gear assembly:

Input Gear Diagram with part numbers/notes:

New assembly (left) vs old (right) -- not my pic/for reference:

 

[Dirt J]

New idler gear assembly (with old assembly shown top-right):

Idler gear diagram w/part #s and notes:

 

[Dirt J]

Prepped the case for the new gears tonight. Trimmed the flange off the oil slingers on front and rear cases with 3" cutoff tool and ground down the boss that interferes with the new, larger low range gear on the output shaft.

Used 2-jaw puller to remove the race in the front case for the front bearing on the idler gear shaft. Tapped back in new race using old race as a sacrifical driving tool.

Tapped out the race for the output/center diff shaft in the front housing. Learned that there is a 5mm spacer (36255-60040) sandwiched behind the race to the cover. Did not realize this part existed until it fell out with the race. Was very confused until I found it on the parts diagram at Partsouq. Appears to be symetrical.

Pried out what was left of the input seal. The gasoline bath had deteriorated it pretty good. Seal is replaced with 3 marks facing out and retainer spring on the inside.

 

[Dirt J]

So this happened on the way home from work (plus a loud constant beep/buzzer).

If anyone happens to know the part number for the "complete fix" (motor, assembly, accumulator, etc.), please post it up. I recall from another thread that there are multiple options/configurations available. I want the buy once, cry once, last 200k+ option.

 

[Dirt J]

Did some digging: the 2000 model year was first year of ATRAC/VSC, which are controlled by the brake system.

The correct ABS booster + master cylinder assembly depends entirely on the manufacturing date of your 100 and whether or not you have VSC:
47050-60010: without VSC; 01/1998-07/1999
47050-60012: without VSC; 07/1999-08/2002
47050-60041: with VSC; 07/1999-08/2000
47050-60042: with VSC; 08/2000-08/2002

But the best thing to do is enter your VIN on PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World to determine exactly which one you need.

I have an early MY 2000 (4/2000 build date), so it needs the 60041.

Mine has the oval-ish ABS connector, while others have a triangle shape.

For the year 2000 you need to be very careful and have the proper brake MC assembly verified against your VIN. There were changes to the MC mid 2000 and if you get the wrong one it will NOT work in your application. Either consult with your dealership parts department about verifying the proper part number with your VIN or use on line services such as partsouq.com that can do VIN based part searches. The most obvious difference on the two MC versions is the shape of the connector on the front of ABS valve body. One version is triangular and the other is oval. See photo below that shows the to different styles of connector on the ABS valve body that came on year 2000 LC/LX master cylinders.

View attachment 2590848

So about to order one of these up, plus the gasket (44785-60010). Looking like around $1300.

 

[zgfiredude]

That sucks, but looks to be a buy once cry once kind of fix......should last another 25 years or more with proper flushing and fluid! Heck, last night I was reading and reading and reading about this and I don't even have a 100 yet! I will likely suck it up and have one on the shelf from a good sale once I know which one to have, LOL.