Diesels are s*** (1 Viewer)

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G'day your post and the replies makes interesting.I think you need to get back to basics.What is your fuel pressure? Does it run rough/misfire/smoke. new air cleaner fitted? How did you run in the rebuilt motor it's very important to get some light/medium load on a motor after a rebuild,If I dyno a motor i have just rebuilt it some load 5 mins after startup or the new rings can glaze very quickly
I would also like to add that a rebuilt diesel can be tight I have experienced a few that felt very flat in the top end for the first 5000km or so. DONT WORRY ABOUT ABOUT TIMING ETC If you don't have a diesel timed right you will know it staight away! it won't run and if it does start you will probably wish it hadn't

My advice; Check the basics if their OK just run it in for 5000km and if it's no better then delve deeper
 
What is your fuel pressure?
No idea. :doh:
new air cleaner fitted?
Yes, at 0km then another at 400km
How did you run in the rebuilt motor it's very important to get some light/medium load on a motor after a rebuild,If I dyno a motor i have just rebuilt it some load 5 mins after startup or the new rings can glaze very quickly
Once I got the air out of the Fuel lines, I didn't let it run any longer than a few seconds.
The first drive was 50m on residential streets, 1km along a major road at 60km/h, then 1 hour along the Freeway in fifth gear at wide open throttle.
 
No idea. :doh:

Yes, at 0km then another at 400km

Once I got the air out of the Fuel lines, I didn't let it run any longer than a few seconds.
The first drive was 50m on residential streets, 1km along a major road at 60km/h, then 1 hour along the Freeway in fifth gear at wide open throttle.


Hows the fuel consumption ? That was what the post was about originally wasnt it::D
It should be getting better and running cooler as the engine wears in;)
 
Hows the fuel consumption ? That was what the post was about originally wasnt it::D
It should be getting better and running cooler as the engine wears in;)
I haven't been on a trip to guage its mileage.
 
Good day everybody,

This may not be the most scientific advice here, but did you check that you can get your throttle fully open when you floor the gas? Or is it possible to open that butterfly valve still a little bit more under the hood itself?

Dieter
 
Diesel are the s***

A 7000 RPM diesel, huh. Thats high expectations. My Honda CB750 only revs to 8500. But diesels f#cking rock, just heard the HJ-60 run for the first time after the rebuild. Runs like a top (but it is the first running Toyota diesel I have ever laid my eyes on). And god its beautiful. And since its my sister's the 2H is yellow (block) and purple (head), silver and black accents. We jokingly called it the biggest burly girly engine around. F#ckin sweet.
 
A 7000 RPM diesel, huh. Thats high expectations. My Honda CB750 only revs to 8500. But diesels f#cking rock, just heard the HJ-60 run for the first time after the rebuild. Runs like a top (but it is the first running Toyota diesel I have ever laid my eyes on). And god its beautiful. And since its my sister's the 2H is yellow (block) and purple (head), silver and black accents. We jokingly called it the biggest burly girly engine around. F#ckin sweet.

pics please!
and do you by any chance have a thread with the rebuild?

thanks
J
 
Good day everybody,

This may not be the most scientific advice here, but did you check that you can get your throttle fully open when you floor the gas? Or is it possible to open that butterfly valve still a little bit more under the hood itself?

Dieter
I checked all that when I was looking for the cause of the occasional high Idle.
 
pics please!
and do you by any chance have a thread with the rebuild?

thanks
J
I don't have a rebuild Thread as I paid for the Engine to be entirely rebuilt. - The only thing that's not listed on the Receipt are Valve Springs.
The only thing related to the Engine which I didn't replace with new, was the Alternator.
 
Jonathan, were you running the 31" LTB's prior to the rebuild?


I once put 31" x 13.5 " R15 Mickey Thompson Baja Belted Bias Ply on a 3L hilux and I couldn't get the sucker over 100km/h ... fuel consumption was also altered dramatically ... I attributed the problem to the bias ply construction ... switched to 31" M/T radials and problem solved... back to 130km/h and regular gas mileage ... HTH
 
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coming soon to a thread near you

pics please!
and do you by any chance have a thread with the rebuild?

thanks
J

Currently we're on the road with the newly alive HJ-60. Did the break in period in a day. And drove the next 30 hours from Michigan to Salt Lake City, California tomorrow. Climbed over the continential divide mostly in 5th, just held 2000 rpms and chugged up at 55 mph. Getting almost 25 mpg in the flats. After climbing the Continential Divide it idled a little higher than normal, just a little warmer. Around 900 rpms (it was set a little high at around 700 rather than 650, liked idling on cold Michigan mornings a lot more. Is that additional RPM or heat after a big climb anything to worry about? Wanna make sure she keeps puring.
 
Is that additional RPM or heat after a big climb anything to worry about? Wanna make sure she keeps puring.

Sounds like the rebuild went well.;)

The heat is best measured by a pyro gauge which gives an indication of how hot its getting inside the cylinder.

On big hills its better to choose a lower gear and higher rpm this will help avoid the heat.
Also the 5 speeds last longer if you only use 5th on the flat.
If you dont,they can either jump out of gear or in some cases the heat makes the chrome on the 5th gear flake off:eek:
 
Is that additional RPM or heat after a big climb anything to worry about? Wanna make sure she keeps puring.

Like others say drop it down a gear on the climbs. The truck will like it better!

As for the higher RPM, I think that's a function of altitude and you'll likely see it drop down once you're at a lower altitude again.
 
Sounds like the rebuild went well.;)

The heat is best measured by a pyro gauge which gives an indication of how hot its getting inside the cylinder.

On big hills its better to choose a lower gear and higher rpm this will help avoid the heat.
Also the 5 speeds last longer if you only use 5th on the flat.
If you dont,they can either jump out of gear or in some cases the heat makes the chrome on the 5th gear flake off:eek:

Seems like she used about 1/2 a quart of oil going through the mountains. Will this lessen if I were to use forth gear climbing? Is that kid of oil consumption anything to worry about? Its also loaded with about 700 lbs of gear.
 
I don't think a half quart of oil is anything to worry about considering the mountain terrain.

If I recall correctly, I consumed about 2 quarts crossing Canada, about 4200 miles.
 
Currently we're on the road with the newly alive HJ-60. Did the break in period in a day. And drove the next 30 hours from Michigan to Salt Lake City, California tomorrow. Climbed over the continential divide mostly in 5th, just held 2000 rpms and chugged up at 55 mph. Getting almost 25 mpg in the flats. After climbing the Continential Divide it idled a little higher than normal, just a little warmer. Around 900 rpms (it was set a little high at around 700 rather than 650, liked idling on cold Michigan mornings a lot more. Is that additional RPM or heat after a big climb anything to worry about? Wanna make sure she keeps puring.

As others have said: Do NOT push too high of a gear up hills. Higher rpm's are your friend on hills as you'll then move more air and keep EGT's down. Diesels do like to work hard but you've got to use your brain on the throttle and gear selection. The other thing that happens when you are dropping down to fourth and grabbing higher rpm's is that the water pump is spinning faster and providing more cooling. Good luck!
 
365km and I used 55L = 15L/100km = 15.68mpg

What kind of driving is that:eek: Its not too good anyway.
I assume you worked it out the proper way by filling the tank,going for a drive and then topping it up?
 

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