Diesels are s***

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Out of curiosity why are you running 20/50. I have always ran 15/40, the only time anyone I know ran 20/50 is when the rings were dying and it did screw up performance. One thing a friend of mine had issues with was the throttle cable sticking (but this would not explain your crappy milage). The only thing I can think of, after the obvious of nothing actually sticking or slowing it down (brakes), is the air to fuel mixture. If you are running too rich then you will have crappy economy and if you have not adjusted the air coming in accordingly (more fuel -more air) then the performance will drop. Good luck!
 
Fantom said:
Out of curiosity why are you running 20/50.
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The Running in Oil was SAE 20W/50 API CC, so the following Oil change I used an Oil with the same Viscosity and Rating.
My Next Oil Change, at 2,500km will be either, full Synthetic 15W/40 Repco brand, or SAE 5W/30 or 10W/30 API SM.
 
.....ok this low end power/high end flatness is leading me toward a valve/injection timing or fuel delivery problem

somebody said timing chain--jump a link?

timing on pump is set right?

B
 
There's certainly a problem with the Engine.

Yesterday, I went Wheeling for the first time.
In Low Range second, the Engine will only do 4,100 RPM. - Prior to the Engine's Swim, I got 5,200 RPM at WOT.
With the Gearbox in neutral, I only get 5,000 RPM. I used to get 5,200 RPM, then 5,300 RPM with bent Con Rods. :)
 
what is the max rpm on the 2l ? on a 3B its 4100 max with no load in neutral reving it to the floor. Thats how the book says you set up the fuel delivery screw. But on a modified rig with larger tires I still only think you should go by egt.


Your max fuel delivery is low? 5k rpm offroad? I have never need to scream my engine offroad to that extreme.
 
brownbear said:
what is the max rpm on the 2l ? on a 3B its 4100 max with no load in neutral reving it to the floor. Thats how the book says you set up the fuel delivery screw. But on a modified rig with larger tires I still only think you should go by egt.
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Orange on the Guage is at 4,400 RPM
Red on the Guage is at 4,800 RPM
When I revved it to 5,300 RPM with the supposedly very bent Con Rods, it didn't feel rough at all, smooth as it had always been.
After the rebuild I was expecting it to do 6,000 RPM easily, and maybe 7,000 RPM. - Which is not unreasonable, for a SOHC 4 Cylinder Engine.

brownbear said:
Your max fuel delivery is low? 5k rpm offroad? I have never need to scream my engine offroad to that extreme.
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Idle is 890 RPM cold, and 900 RPM at operating Temp.

The Temperature Guage sits just below Horizontal, and has yet to get to the Horizontal position. - Which is how it's supposed to be.
 
Jonathan_Ferguson said:
After the rebuild I was expecting it to do 6,000 RPM easily, and maybe 7,000 RPM. - Which is not unreasonable, for a SOHC 4 Cylinder Engine.
.
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yes thats unreasonable for a diesel. The compression and the long stroke of diesel were never built for that.
 
The stock setting has these engines governed at 4200rpm no-load, so I would guess your governor is now set correctly :D
You would need a huge turbo to get any benefit from revving past 4000, the breathing ability of the engine drops dramatically beyond 4000, add the much higher friction losses and you will see there are no more power gains to be had in a NA setup. At least that's my experience when I played with my 2L before turboing it.
 
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Jonathan_Ferguson said:
Orange on the Guage is at 4,400 RPM
Red on the Guage is at 4,800 RPM
When I revved it to 5,300 RPM with the supposedly very bent Con Rods, it didn't feel rough at all, smooth as it had always been.
After the rebuild I was expecting it to do 6,000 RPM easily, and maybe 7,000 RPM. - Which is not unreasonable, for a SOHC 4 Cylinder Engine.


Idle is 890 RPM cold, and 900 RPM at operating Temp.

The Temperature Guage sits just below Horizontal, and has yet to get to the Horizontal position. - Which is how it's supposed to be.
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Have you considered that a rebuilt engine is tight for a few thousand klms ?
Mine has done 8000klms and is just reaching its peak
When they loosen up its most noticable in the higher RPM range.
Give it some time :rolleyes:
 
I think the gauge display (RPMs) is identical to the gas model of same pickup. I have never revved mine past 3500 and you can tell it is NOT happy. The redline is on the dash is pure fallicy IMO.

Johnny
 
A gas engine will run the fastest quater mile time right before it is about to scatter. I definitaly think anything over 3500rpm on my 3B is retarded, like said before there isn't power up there, it is like over reving off the powerband. You have to realize these engines are made for a purpose, to be rock solid reliable, fuel efficent, and touqey.

There sounds to be a problem. And no offense, but it isn't the engines fault!~
 
brownbear said:
Your max fuel delivery is low? 5k rpm offroad? I have never need to scream my engine offroad to that extreme.
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ditto .. 3500 and is much to me ..
 
Jonathan_Ferguson said:
The Running in Oil was SAE 20W/50 API CC, so the following Oil change I used an Oil with the same Viscosity and Rating.
My Next Oil Change, at 2,500km will be either, full Synthetic 15W/40 Repco brand, or SAE 5W/30 or 10W/30 API SM.
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I now have a bit over 600km 'til the 2,500km Oil and Filter change.
I bought two Valvoline Semi-Synthetic SAE 10W/30 API SM in 5L containers from Repco for $28.## per bottle.

FO16.JPG

Valvoline XLD Lo-Vis 10W/30
 
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OK since this is to the top I will give my opinion once again : the L series engines can rev very high and as long as everything is as it should in the engine it doesn't hurt if the high revs are not sustained. I once used full power on a muddy climb I couldn't make but in 4 low at 4000rpm. You don't know what these engines are capable of until you have the chance to experience it. Later I discovered one of my hubs was not locked. :doh: :doh:
 
Jonathan_Ferguson said:
I bought two Valvoline Semi-Synthetic SAE 10W/30 API SM in 5L containers from Repco for $28.## per bottle.
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You are aware that API SM is a GASOLINE oil NOT a diesel oil? You need an API C? rating on there.

As for power etc. how was timing set up? When I rebuilt the 3B in the FJ55 I set the timing statically as described in the OEM shop manual and the diesel shop reset it and said it was about 5-7 degrees out. I'd have the diesel shop verify the timing if it was set statically.
 
i dont know the L series engines and i run a gasser F engine but lurk here cause diesels are better, but....my engine dosnt sound very happy around 3k and i thought diesels were made to produce power at lower rpms than gassers...trying to hit 7k is uhhh....kinda scary. but the milage thing is defanitly messed up, generally 3B's/2H's get around 20+mpg...
 
Jonathan_Ferguson said:
All Oil 'til now has been rated CC, I've even listed the API of the Gear Oil I'm using. ;) Engine Oil Ratings in PDF
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Then they do things differently down under because here on this side of the pond we have some oil that is both S and C rated but MOST is either S or C but NOT both. The API pdf file you reference explains it well! S = service (or gasoline ONLY), C = commercial (or diesel ONLY).
It has alot to do with soot removal abilities. the 10w/30 is almost always strictly a gasoline oil and the 15w/40 is almost always a diesel oil and some also are acceptable for gasoline.
 
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