Did I buy the right shocks? Look too long to my newbie eyes.

[tdskip]

OK-I think I found what you’re referring to. The mount that I circled in red is supposed to be down at the bottom where are the U bolts locate the axle, correct?

Where it is now is effectively a half a foot raised which would account for the problem related to the length of the shocks that I bought.

 

[franklin40]

yeah. that one is higher up than it should be. what does the plate under the spring look like? the one with the u bolts going through it

 

[pb4ugo]

What year is your 40? Early models have the shock mount as in your pic, above the leaf spring. Some where around 74 they moved it to the U bolt spring plate, located below the leaf spring.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks for the responses-it’s nice to know that I didn’t completely fat finger the research I did on the shocks.

This is a 1968, does anyone know when the cut over was?

So just get shorter shocks or should I look into relocating the so just get shorter shocks or should I look into relocating the mounts?

Thanks!

 

[franklin40]

my 72 has it on the spring plate but it’s not all original either

 

[Fj moneypit]

I had same problem. I have 2-2.5 lift and used the bilsteins for 0-2” lift on fronts and 4” shocks on rear because of 1” shackle.

 

[peesalot]

Wait a minute, are the pin to pin lengths you posted at ride height or at full droop ?
The part # you posted specs at 14.1' fully compressed & 22.5" fully extended.
The 233970 might be the ticket. Check out shock warehouse.com they have a nice list with specs and part #'s.
I have the same shocks, same pressure, just longer on my SOA fj40, had them awhile, like them, if they get over stuffed they will burp fluid or leak so bump stop is important, a 1/4" off full stuff. If you got 13.5" or better at stuff then the 233970 will work. It is really hard to get it to full stuff so measuring the pin distance with the bump stop touching + 1/4" is usually easier. So set it at ride height, measure distance between bump stop and axle, deduct that number from the ride height pin to pin measurement and see if you get 13.5" or more, you may be able to get away at 13.25". The bump stop may give a bit too. I bet you get a number close to 14" in front and 14.5" in back ? The 233970 are only an inch shorter so the ? in my mind is when you said that the shock was almost fully compressed to get it on which would mean it was close to 14.5 or 15 " but the pin measurement was 18" or 19" so something is not adding up ?

 

[bikersmurf]

Thanks for the responses-it’s nice to know that I didn’t completely fat finger the research I did on the shocks.

This is a 1968, does anyone know when the cut over was?

So just get shorter shocks or should I look into relocating the so just get shorter shocks or should I look into relocating the mounts?

Thanks!

My July 74 had them above the springs. I moved them to the spring plate when I swapped in a ‘77 Fj45 axle.

I’d recommend moving them lower... the pre 75 are too short and don’t all full range of flex.

 

[pb4ugo]

My May of 75 were mounted below the spring. I ran them below the spring for years on my trail 40, then relocated them above the spring when I did a U bolt flip. I noticed I had slightly more flexibility and body roll when mounted above the spring. I like them there because they are out of the way from trail obstacles.

 

[tdskip]

Great discussion gentlemen.

@peesalot - the measurements I provided where with the front wheels on the ground and the rear axle on jack stands. Weighted in other words. I’ll get the other measurements later.

@pb4ugo and @bikersmurf - Is there a kit to move the rears to the lower u-bolt location? Fronts look factory to me but I obviously don’t know a whole lot yet.

This took a bit of the wind out of my sails yesterday since I have to get this thing sorted soon.

 

[franklin40]

probably easiest to see if you can find someone in the classified section parting out a later model fj40. you could probably get some bottom spring plates from someone near you. someone more learned in early fj40s will likely be able to say if it’ll bolt on or if there’s a nuance with the early axle that’ll prevent using it

 

[tdskip]

@franklin40, thanks. Let me try to fond the parts diagrams and see if there is a bolt on option.

 

[bikersmurf]

Newer spring plates (OEM or skid plate) will bolt right on with standard ubolts.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention...

Ubolt flip kit for extra ground clearance.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Why do you want to move them? Sounds like they are in the original location for a '68.

 

[peesalot]

so at ride height you got 18" but you said the shock was almost fully compressed to get it mounted but the fully compressed dimensions of the part # you said you had is 14.1" ???.

 

[peesalot]

Fully compressed on those Bilsteins has the eyelet base just about touching the shock body.

 

[franklin40]

Why do you want to move them? Sounds like they are in the original location for a '68.

i guess i could expand my thoughts above a bit. if they are original and you want to stay original then take the shocker back if you can and get ones that fit based off measurement in full flex and droop. if you want to keep the shocks or can’t take them back because they “have been installed” then you can make them work by simply bolting on new spring plates.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks guys, super information.

7 inches between the rear bump stop and axle.

 

[tdskip]

About 6 inches of clearance between bump stop and axle up front.

 

[pb4ugo]

As bikersmurf mentioned, you can buy used stk plates for cheap or better yet, get u bolt skid plates at a minimum. Stk plates can get hung up on trail obstacles and you can damage or bend/break the u bolts and nuts. I learned a long time ago, if your going to trail ride, try to make the underside as slippery as possible.