Details of Topnault FJ40/45 Bodies (TP auto parts.com) (1 Viewer)

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In regard to "what patches should be 16 gauge?" Who is your favorite child? ;)

As previously mentioned. You have access to tech that we don't necessarily have. After having read the e-coating article you posted....I am inclined to think that this could indeed produce a product with better integrity. Is it sufficient? I suppose only time will tell.

Many thanks for the e-coating pointer.
After talking with the production people, I would like to correct one of my mistake: to change the thickness we do need to modify the die to allow more gap. We tend to not to, but if this is necessary, we will do it.
 
I thought about this a bit more and really am in a far place away from the original design and vastly more ignorant than the original designers but
I'd say that floors and beds really suffered when the switch was made to the thinner 18 gauge. If you look at it a bit and think about how the
hauling area gets abuse.....and the dings and bangs that occur...that thinner gauge just doesn't hold. I'm going to have to flip my 79 tub over
and go over the underside with a planishing hammer to get all the dings out of the bed. I'm sure it was just general hauling of items in the
bed that did it....no extreme abuse. @topnault I'm wondering also why your designers put that extra rib in the floor plans...as I mentioned before.
Perhaps they thought the metal needed strengthening there also? Ignore the question if thats proprietary.

I'm sure others have better input.

As an aside....I'm also a mudder that appreciates designs with better integrity. I have an additional stainless steel body tub from teseven (French) that is yet another
way to address longevity against rust. A few mudders have been chasing this "integrity against rust" holy grail for awhile with aluminum...stainless...thicker gauges...etc.
 
If you can go to 16 gauge steel without much trouble it would be very cool. Especially if the entire tub was 16 gauge. The bodies would hold up much better. The thicker you go the longer they will last. Nobody will complain and say the steel is too thick. At least in the fj40 world anyway. Other than that, just need more close up pics of the tubs. The rear floor for example and underside.
 
I thought about this a bit more and really am in a far place away from the original design and vastly more ignorant than the original designers but
I'd say that floors and beds really suffered when the switch was made to the thinner 18 gauge. If you look at it a bit and think about how the
hauling area gets abuse.....and the dings and bangs that occur...that thinner gauge just doesn't hold. I'm going to have to flip my 79 tub over
and go over the underside with a planishing hammer to get all the dings out of the bed. I'm sure it was just general hauling of items in the
bed that did it....no extreme abuse. @topnault I'm wondering also why your designers put that extra rib in the floor plans...as I mentioned before.
Perhaps they thought the metal needed strengthening there also? Ignore the question if thats proprietary.

I'm sure others have better input.

As an aside....I'm also a mudder that appreciates designs with better integrity. I have an additional stainless steel body tub from teseven (French) that is yet another
way to address longevity against rust. A few mudders have been chasing this "integrity against rust" holy grail for awhile with aluminum...stainless...thicker gauges...etc.
I will seriously consider your suggestions. Maybe for the late 60s model we can use 16 gauge sheet metal...
 
I thought about this a bit more and really am in a far place away from the original design and vastly more ignorant than the original designers but
I'd say that floors and beds really suffered when the switch was made to the thinner 18 gauge. If you look at it a bit and think about how the
hauling area gets abuse.....and the dings and bangs that occur...that thinner gauge just doesn't hold. I'm going to have to flip my 79 tub over
and go over the underside with a planishing hammer to get all the dings out of the bed. I'm sure it was just general hauling of items in the
bed that did it....no extreme abuse. @topnault I'm wondering also why your designers put that extra rib in the floor plans...as I mentioned before.
Perhaps they thought the metal needed strengthening there also? Ignore the question if thats proprietary.

I'm sure others have better input.

As an aside....I'm also a mudder that appreciates designs with better integrity. I have an additional stainless steel body tub from teseven (French) that is yet another
way to address longevity against rust. A few mudders have been chasing this "integrity against rust" holy grail for awhile with aluminum...stainless...thicker gauges...etc.
The curly rib was added for additional strength. We also discussed internally on the 16 gauge proposal and believe it is feasible for those yet to be made. Thanks for your inputs.
 
Following! I also agree with the 16 gauge change if possible. My 84 with thinner metal was literally Swiss cheese. A buddy’s 74 with thicker material held significantly better in the same coastal environment. Both trucks bought new in Terrace, BC and have been driving around here since. just an example. Carry on.
 
Can you post some detailed pictures of the FJ45 roof panel? Thanx!
 
Sure would like to see some pictures of that 45 roof panel.
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2B2D2AF2-1FA0-4482-9058-12486BC519BB.jpeg
0F749EC8-F8E0-4249-8CA2-0CFCE793A87D.jpeg
2D3F3811-C73F-4445-928D-EA8566A52A0F.jpeg
 
Awesome! That's what I was looking for. Sure wish you guys were open on Saturdays. Even maybe for just half a day once or twice a month for us local folks that might want to pick up their parts. I can't make it during the week that's why I'm asking.
It'd be great to see you guys at the Bakersfield Cruiser swap meet on April 29th. You can email Andy for more details: andyinbako@gmail.com
 
That’s a removeable top 45 roof panel, right?
 
That’s a removeable top 45 roof panel, right?
I believe so. It won't "fit" earlier 45's without some type of modification to the top of windshield frame. I have a fiberglass one from Gozzard and I had to put a couple of rivserts on mine to make it work. Not a big deal.
 
Looks really good. Would you be able to take a shot like this?
Just curious to see the front profile……thickness between bottom and top. Hard to tell but yours looks a bit taller at the front than OEM

E243FC01-9CFE-4F27-9669-4FD7DE771B5D.jpeg
 
Awesome! That's what I was looking for. Sure wish you guys were open on Saturdays. Even maybe for just half a day once or twice a month for us local folks that might want to pick up their parts. I can't make it during the week that's why I'm asking.
It'd be great to see you guys at the Bakersfield Cruiser swap meet on April 29th. You can email Andy for more details: andyinbako@gmail.com
We talked about that possibility and I will sure bring this back to the team.
Awesome! That's what I was looking for. Sure wish you guys were open on Saturdays. Even maybe for just half a day once or twice a month for us local folks that might want to pick up their parts. I can't make it during the week that's why I'm asking.
It'd be great to see you guys at the Bakersfield Cruiser swap meet on April 29th. You can email Andy for more details: andyinbako@gmail.com
If you need to pick up parts during weekend, you can make an appointment with us and one of us can take care of you at the store.
 

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