destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Been a while since I've had an F engine, but isn't the only way oil can get get inside the timing cover (and hence possibly leak out as in Dustin's case) through the front main seal? Leaking while only running in that location tells me that there's a bad seal or a grooved shaft.
 
Hey thanks guys :)

I take a look at the wiring diagram in the FSM for the front headlights and saftey lights, hopefully it is a easy swap in the wire bundles at the front :)

yeah not to excited about the front drip of oil at the very bottom of the timing cover...
Thinking i check the oil now that it has been sitting overnight, see the level etc.
You guys think i should pull the timing cover and put in new gaskets?
Be awful nice to have a new motor that did not leak. :)

I do not think the shaft should be grooved middlecalf, as everything was polished and balanced.
But do you all think it is the front main seal?

or just a timing cover leak?
 
Is it coming from the seam around the cover or from where the crankshaft goes through the cover? This motor has a press on pulley right?
Since its only leaking while running betting its coming through the seal that the crankshaft goes through?
 
its is leaking between the bottom of the timing cover and the oil pan...

So i went to pick up my gas tank that was supposed to be flushed of all the sand and crap...

And they say "it will take forever for us to do this, your better off jsut spending a couple hours rinsing it yourself.." They have had it for 24 hours... They did nto charge me, btu fxxxing A, why not say that before i waste my time! oy!

So i be rinsing my take for the next 2 hours with dishsoap ( what they told me to do )

WTF is up with people? All god damn lazy.


:D
 
New Thread...

Looks like your getting very close to ending this thread and beginning a new one called "Destin to Travel" :steer:

Cheers!
Guy
 
Leaking at bottom of 28 in pic? I don't recall on F engines, is there oil inside the timing cover or is the oil seal at the timing plate (26) or block (crankshaft)?
timing cover.gif
 
on closer inspection I think it is leaking coolant from the bottom of the water pump, and it jsut drips around the timing cover...
The break in oil and the coolant are both green so it is hard to tell em apart.

Tighted the bolt and it leaks less but still drips, maybe i need a new water pump...


OK stumbling issues...

timing is set, points set..
I put in a 2 liter bottle of gas and taped it inside the bonnet, drove around, seems like low rpms it stutters and sputters...

Carb issue? This is killing me guys...
Low speed circuit?

I really need to get this fixed so i can actually not break my motor in at an idle.

so fawked
 
Have you tweaked your idle mixture adjustment screw (there are 2 one for idle speed and one for mixture)
Turn it in counting how many turns it takes till LIGHTLY seated. Should be around 1.5 turns out (I think?) from seated to start with and tune from there...turn it out slow till the revs drop then turn it in till the revs drop somewhere in the middle is where to set it. You will find the "sweet spot" easy.

How old is your waterpump? Should be able to see coolant coming out the small (1/8" or so) hole on the bottom of the pump with a flashlight and mirror. Could also be coming from a hose clamp on the pump and running down under it. New hoses/clamps will need to be tightened up a bit after some heat cycles.
 
the idle mixture screw is way more out than 1 and a half ;)

Pulled the shorty manifold stud and got a new longer one so I can put in the insulator from mark.
The shorter stud was loose too, and maybe it was not tightening flushly between the carb and manifold, maybe the problem?

Gonna try to rebuild an extra aislin carb i have in the basement tonight and see if that solves the problem

gonna sort this fxxxer one way or another!
 
ok awesome, have the old stud out, and picked up a new on of proper size so i can mount the aluminum carb insulator that mark hooked me up with :D

Tonight I am rebuilding ( attempting ) an extra aislin carb i have.
Trying to eliminate variables to see if the low speed stutter ( idles great ) is just part of the carb.

Could have also been the fact that the short manifold stud for the carb was loose and it was never tightening and causing a leak, we will see.

Solution has to be here somewhere, and I am determined to find it.
 
I just went through some similar problems. Mark suggested that I advance the timing a bit to gain some more vacuum. He said he has seen some fresh motors not produce vacuum to OEM spec. I got rid of my studder, and runs 10x better, but trying to find that sweet spot to make it 100%. I am not sure who said it, but they said Land Cruisers don't leak, they are just self lubricating:hillbilly:. Good luck, I know you will work it out. :steer:Brendon

PS, hope the no smoking is going well!
 
Hi Destin,

Sorry to see you having al these problems on your cruiser.
But it looks like you are getting there, hang in there.

Don't know what intern they put on your engine but he still needs to learn a lot.:hhmm:

Good luck, you'll be driving soon.
 
destin said:
a)
on closer inspection I think it is leaking coolant from the bottom of the water pump, and it jsut drips around the timing cover...
The break in oil and the coolant are both green so it is hard to tell em apart.

Tighted the bolt and it leaks less but still drips, maybe i need a new water pump...


OK stumbling issues...

b)
timing is set, points set..
I put in a 2 liter bottle of gas and taped it inside the bonnet, drove around, seems like low rpms it stutters and sputters...

Carb issue? This is killing me guys...
Low speed circuit?

I really need to get this fixed so i can actually not break my motor in at an idle.

so fawked
Click to expand...

a)
Rub a bit of the fluid on your fingers and smell on it so you can "see" ( smells different) if it`s oil or coolant.

b)
To adjust a carb isn`t easy if you have no experience it`s difficile !
Best way is to drive to a carb specialist and let them adjust it, takes only half an hour and you can wait till they do it. If you adjust it to "rich" it`s bad for the engine if you adjust it to lean it`s also bad for the engine.
(hard to explain in english ;) )
Ok hope I could help
Cheers
Peter
 
Hi destin I cant sit back any longer,air bubbles in fuel line is nothing they just go out of the fuel bowl in carby. Take air cleaner off carb, with eng not running open acc slowly is there fuel squirting down throat, there is little jet there may be blocked or slight block. you can use wire from wire brush or tip cleaner to clear jet.You can use paint thinners to clean carby. Cheers Fred.
 
ok the old carb is on the left, and the one i rebuilt on the right.

Did not have any carb cleaner but used forces are and blew out any gunk etc in the jets, and put together with the carb kit. Lets hope this does the trick
4882073593_57fbaf0408_o.jpg


Notice the crappy PCV tap the PO put in the throttle body of the carb mark rebuilt hehe, weird s***, If the new carb i rebuilt does not work i have to block this bit off and try the old carb...

4882680872_9ae79d10a0_o.jpg



ok headed down and wish me luck :D
 
Alright!

Put the new stud in, riser insulator, ( the carb i rebuilt was horrible, so put on the slightly funky one that was rebuilt, )
Got the air out of the lines and it seems to run pretty ok :D

Stutters a little from first at low rpms, but if ya raise the rpms a bit in first as you roll into it is fine :)

Question, is it possible to have a slight vacuum leak in the 4wd vacuum stuff?

I tightened all those bits, but i cannot reach and tighten the parts connecting to the switch by the transfer case as the mechanic angled them so they are near impossible to access hehe.

Is the drip off the water pump on the bottom a big deal ( ie can i drive it until the new water pump arrives? )

thanks guys!
 
Do you have a manual choke? See if it still stutters with a little choke applied (but no manual thottle, just your nominal idle).
 
Adjust your idle mix screw like I said earlier. Turn it in till seated light counting turns.
Then turn it out to 1.5 turns or so. THen start the motor and let it idle if it will.
Turn the screw out till the idle gets funny, then turn it in till it gets funny then set it right between the 2 funny spots.

Waterpump is anyones guess. Could go on dripping for a long time...Could sieze up solid anytime LOL.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Switch nut thread size and pitch.
Replies
4
Views
739
tahoe40/45
tahoe40/45
59fj25
Seeking Guidance on Restoring a 1959 FJ Cruiser Hardtop
Replies
17
Views
2K
Indygbd
Indygbd
DrRock
1962 FJ40 Doors and Top- Where to Source
Replies
8
Views
1K
rainingagain
R
A
Early 36 Spline Steering Wheel, Horn Button & Bits - New Zealand
Replies
0
Views
513
Archie 1962 FJ25
A

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom