destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

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destin said:
Alright!

Is the drip off the water pump on the bottom a big deal ( ie can i drive it until the new water pump arrives? )

thanks guys!
Click to expand...

As long as you keep a close eye on the watertemp and the level in your radiator it should be fine.
 
waiting for time said:
As long as you keep a close eye on the watertemp and the level in your radiator it should be fine.
Click to expand...

cool

I went a head and got a new water pump just in case from SOR

these things pretty easy to install yeah?

pull the fan and pulley and a few bolts, then new gaskets and torque down?

Gonna have the spare carb i have rebuilt by mark so i can eliminated any weirdness from that other funky carb.

Need to call him and get ahold of him and see if he has time.
 
ok so was out driving and fine tuning s***e, but my water temp guage went up to about an eight inch from "h" for hot...

I was in traffic and it is hot out... but i do no think it should be that high... water pump fail? bad thermostat ( it is new )

I opened the radiator and it was full, not boiling or hot to the touch or anything...

whats the deal ya think>? i ordered a new water pump just in case, and gaskets.

On the up side i noticed the PCV tube came unscrewed from the carb riser/ insulator, and tightened that up and the truck seem to stumble less :D

I hook up the vacuum gauge later tomorrow when the engine is not hot and see if it made a difference... Can you guys give me the low down on my hot motor problem?
 
fj404life said:
Stuck thermostat?
The top tank on my radiator is always pretty hot after driving...
Click to expand...

how do you unstick a thermo stat? :)

Yeah it was weird, the indicator showed pretty high, and my feel where pretty warm under the floor boards with flip flops on hehe.

Should i go over and let it idle for a while since it heat cycled and see if it spikes up again?
 
ok disconnected s*** and tapped on the gauge and reconnected ( tapped on the gauge because it still read hot after sitting for 3 hours ) and s*** is all reading fine now thanks goodness )

Down side is something is till funky in the fuel delivery, i eman points are gapped right, dwell is good, timing is right, but s*** if it does not stumble and crap, I has to be the carb right?
Gonna have mark rebuild another for me.

maybe a pin hole leak in the fuel line causing air to get in?

gonna put in a new fuel pump as a precaution as well...

I really want to figure this out, driving me insane haha

Oh I have the mixture screw like 5 screws out, which is prolly to rich, but anything else causes it to buck/ stumble all weird at low rpms... has to be the car right>?
 
So what do you guys think of this plan...

In order to figure out why my f motor runs like s*** I am going ( when the parts arrive )

replace:

1) new fuel pump
2) new toyota points
3) new toyota coil
4) new proper sparkplugs
5) gap and set time and dwell etc

I know my carb is running rich, but I have to to keep it form stumbling, which make me believe something is wonked with the carb ( low rpm stumbles and cut outs, happens a lot after it has sat for a while, even 10 minutes, like air is getting in, or some vacuum link who knows )

Sending another carb to mark to be rebuilt, and when i get that back i can truly find out if it is the carb, but hell what do you guys think?

:D

This will get sorted guys, maybe my valves came out of adjustment this quickly?
Seems unlikely but who knows ;)

You input is valued, thanks for putting up with the drama boat :D
 
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Hello Destin,

I think I would be crazy by now if I had the issues you have with your car.
I think you are holding up fine.
If you look at an engine you basicaly have 3 main systems which work together, these are the ignition system, the fuel system and the mechanical system. If the problem is in one of these systems it is strait forward find it fix and drive. In your case however it looks like there are small problems in more than one system. What I would do in your situation is not to work on more than one system at a time. You might find a fix but you don't know which because you changed 2 things. So start with checking your ignition, dwell angle, timing and do you have spark. If so continue on the fuell system. Fuell level in carb, do you get enough from fuell pump, no vacuum leaks ( you mentioned the current carb was warped on the bottom). If the problem is still there check valve clearence and so on.

Forgive me if I'm wrong but I get the feeling you are making to many changes at the same time.

Hope this will help you.
 
waiting for time said:
Hello Destin,

I think I would be crazy by now if I had the issues you have with your car.
I think you are holding up fine.
If you look at an engine you basicaly have 3 main systems which work together, these are the ignition system, the fuel system and the mechanical system. If the problem is in one of these systems it is strait forward find it fix and drive. In your case however it looks like there are small problems in more than one system. What I would do in your situation is not to work on more than one system at a time. You might find a fix but you don't know which because you changed 2 things. So start with checking your ignition, dwell angle, timing and do you have spark. If so continue on the fuell system. Fuell level in carb, do you get enough from fuell pump, no vacuum leaks ( you mentioned the current carb was warped on the bottom). If the problem is still there check valve clearence and so on.

Forgive me if I'm wrong but I get the feeling you are making to many changes at the same time.

Hope this will help you.
Click to expand...

thanks man good point :D

I will try to be a littel more methodical :D

So do all the points timing dwell and plugs first...

then if problems are their start looking for vacuum leaks yeah>?

The carb site stay perfectly to the line, but maybe their is some sort of low level vacuum leak cuaseing the low level stumbles...

The mechanic who installed the motor used ruber line from the vacuum advance to the port of the carb, could that be the problematic bit? ( as that controls the firing advance under accelreation :D
 
have you retorqued the head bolts and tuned the valve lash yet?
 
IDave said:
have you retorqued the head bolts and tuned the valve lash yet?
Click to expand...

have not retorqued the head, do i need to do that?

The mechanic that installed the motor supposedly adjusted the valves...

Should i look at the FSM and figure out how to do that and check the valves are in spec?
Would that cause the stumble at low rpms when accelerating?

I just want to drive this thing, sucks to invest all the time and money and have a truck that runs like s*** :(

so do:

points again
timing again
plugs again
dwell again
new coil

and figure out how to adjust valves
retorque the head bolts?

and if it still runs like s*** replace the fuel pump and try a new carb or keep hunting for vacuum leaks?

Thanks again guys

every time I think this thing is resolved it just keeps fxxxing up.
 
It is normal after a few heat/cool cycles to retorque the head bolts and rocker arm support bolts after things have settled in. This can change the valve lash (spaces between the top of the valve stems and the tip of the rocker arms) so it's customary to adjust them also. You could have your mechanic do that if you aren't comfortable.

If for some reason these are significantly off, then, yes, it could cause rough running.

Unless you have some reason to think you did them wrong, I don't see why you should keep redoing things you've already looked at. Rather, look at what you haven't done yet.

Do you have an engine manual? All of this is in the first chapter.
 
ok cool so it might be the problem yeah?

OK i think i can handle retorque the head bolts, i have a torque wrench...
The rocker arm bolts are the ones on top of the rocker arms yeah>?
so remove the valve e cover, retorque the rocker arm bolts, then do a valve adjustment>?

I have never done a valve adjustment, approachable for the novice based off the FSM?

I really do not want to brink this to a mechanic again, seems like things only stay fixed for a day or so when you do, and i should learn to do all this s*** myself.

You think my motor is cursed? ;)
 
looks like the head bolts need to be retorqued in a certain order yeah>?

Let me read the FMS tonight and get my head around it.

cannot be harder than the points and timing and distributer :D

Do you need to change the gasket on the valve cover every time?
 
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