destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

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Destin,
would spray the plasted parts immediatly with primer!
Moisture and oxygen are required for rust.
Depending on air moisture in your area...
..the greater the possibility of immediate rust growth!
All about rust:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust
Cheers
Peter
 
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Rust holes

From the pic it looks like all the pits in the toolbox are on the flat metal, none on the ribs. If I were doing it right I would just remove it and splice in a patch, leaving the original ribs. :wrench:

An easy fix would be to refinish it, tape the holes from the bottom and do a good bedliner on the interior of the box. No one would see it there, and it would be practical. ;)

X2 on this subject. My toolbox had the same problem. The holes on my rig were small enough to weld shut. After they were filled and smoothed I did put a rino liner over due to the fact that the "tool box" will be getting a fair bit of abuse.

Another idea is to cut the entire section out and replace. Creating the ribs is not that that hard for a good fab shop.:)

What are you planning for an undercoat for the the tub?

Lookin Good! I bet your getting stoked to start :steer:.
 
x3. Salvage the ribs, weld in good steel around, that is the correct way to do this. There is not a spray-on that is going to put a nice new piece of metal in there. The steel that is in there is crap. No matter how you doll it up, it will still be crap underneath. Just cut it out, fix it correctly and have the peace of mind knowing it was done correctly and will not come back to haunt you.

Just my opinion, of course.

Dallas
 
:D

I will have em cut and patch around the ribs where needed :D

No liners are hitting the tub, going stock.
They will be hitting/sealing it with a epoxy primer after the body work is done.

They were hitting it with a base primer yesterday to protect the metal from moisture :D
 
Blasting turned out great! Anything you elected not to blast to save time or money? I'm thinking of trying to tackle some of the paint and light rust removal on some of the parts of my 40 and blast the tub and selected pieces that need it. But it sounds like you got a good price for the whole thing.
 
Blasting turned out great! Anything you elected not to blast to save time or money? I'm thinking of trying to tackle some of the paint and light rust removal on some of the parts of my 40 and blast the tub and selected pieces that need it. But it sounds like you got a good price for the whole thing.

every little bit was blasted :D


The body shop is going to make a new steel ribbed stamped bottom for the tool box, they said it is pretty easy to make, and better than trying to patch fix the existing one :D

I need to order a new mid bed ( fixable, but easier to replace )

Looking at reelsteel or ccot, ccot has 3 week build time though :(

Any ideas?
 
ok ordered a mid bed panel form real steel, the had some instock made.
Looks identical to mine except for and extra stamp for a rear heater, weld up the extra holes and knock out the random stamp and good to go :D
 
Destin,
would spray the plasted parts immediatly with primer!
Moisture and oxygen are required for rust.
Depending on air moisture in your area...
..the greater the possibility of immediate rust growth!
All about rust:
Rust - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Cheers
Peter

Everything they have primered all the bits and the tub already, i just went camera happy when they got it back from the blasting company :D
 
Everything they have primered all the bits and the tub already, i just went camera happy when they got it back from the blasting company :D

fine ;)
toonsnail.gif
 
Looks really good. All rust free and all. Are you going to keep the tool box or go for an extended range tank? Another idea, one that I have come on now that I am driving my 40. I wish I had set up the rear area for cargo. Like footman loops to tie down ammo cans, exterior jerry can, etc.

My unasked for 2cents. At any rate looks good. Buy yourself a metric tap and die set to clean up threads as you reassemble. Also, find a good fastener supply store for all of those metric bolts. Go stainless and use anti-seize. Also, think about grounding. I am having little electrical gremlins popping up here and there which may be due to all that paintin.

I will keep watchin.:popcorn:
 
Looks really good. All rust free and all. Are you going to keep the tool box or go for an extended range tank? Another idea, one that I have come on now that I am driving my 40. I wish I had set up the rear area for cargo. Like footman loops to tie down ammo cans, exterior jerry can, etc.

My unasked for 2cents. At any rate looks good. Buy yourself a metric tap and die set to clean up threads as you reassemble. Also, find a good fastener supply store for all of those metric bolts. Go stainless and use anti-seize. Also, think about grounding. I am having little electrical gremlins popping up here and there which may be due to all that paintin.

I will keep watchin.:popcorn:

Thanks Bill :D

Keeping it all stock :D

I might fabricate something that can bolt up to the seat bolts/mounts, that would be non invasive connector, something that would allow me to fabricate little carriers that i could fasten on with out hurting changing the stock stuff.
SO basically you could fabricate multiple internal carrier executions that all share the same mounting mechanism, plug and play. Just a thought at this stage :D

Yeah there are a lot of random wire grounds for the taillights etc.
I marked everything on the wires so hopefully no gremlins here :D
 

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