Let’s not quibble over semantics in the middle of a thread that has nothing to do with ice cream.
I posted the pic earlier today as testimony to the durability of these Delta 6” leading arms. V2.0 has served quietly in a position of grave danger.
Delta VS Radius Arms (13 Viewers)
- Thread starter Delta VS
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I posted the pic earlier today as testimony to the durability of these Delta 6” leading arms. V2.0 has served quietly in a position of grave danger.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Gotch ya!
No, I am EXTREMELY happy with the product, I recomend and endorse these to everyone! Unless, you are three linking. They don't work well in that application...
2000cruiser
SILVER Star
Just got back from cruising 85mph on some sloppy crowned highways. Solid, stable, and no vibes across all bands on the 3" Icon setup. Between this and the Redhead steering gear, the truck feels like a Porsche 
. Extremely happy with the product Dave at @Delta VS makes- now time to **** it up at the nearest mall parking lot!
(Look at sexy clearance between the HD Tie Rod and the arm)
. Extremely happy with the product Dave at @Delta VS makes- now time to **** it up at the nearest mall parking lot!(Look at sexy clearance between the HD Tie Rod and the arm)
COYS
SILVER Star
Looking good - curious, what RPM are you at at 85MPH?Just got back from cruising 85mph on some sloppy crowned highways. Solid, stable, and no vibes across all bands on the 3" Icon setup. Between this and the Redhead steering gear, the truck feels like a Porsche
(Look at sexy clearance between the HD Tie Rod and the arm)
View attachment 2773982
Icon 3” kit so does that mean you are at 3” of lift? Also what size tires and what condition are they in?Just got back from cruising 85mph on some sloppy crowned highways. Solid, stable, and no vibes across all bands on the 3" Icon setup. Between this and the Redhead steering gear, the truck feels like a Porsche
(Look at sexy clearance between the HD Tie Rod and the arm)
View attachment 2773982
2000cruiser
SILVER Star
I can check next time- I'm pretty sure its over 3000.
2000cruiser
SILVER Star
Front is roughly little over 23" from center of the hub to fender.
similar to mine, but I still have slight vibes at 15mph and 40mph. At this point i am having tires re-balanced even thought they are new. Wondering what your final caster measurement is.
Cruiser like delta arms.
I've been eyeing these, but I'm not sure which to get since I haven't even installed my lift yet. I'd rather do it all at once. I'm thinking maybe 4", but I'd rather not wait an undetermined amount of time, so 3" and 5" are the options. Not sure if 5" would be too much once all the heavy stuff is installed. I've got OME 2850j and 2863, ARB front winch bumper. Winch isn't installed yet, but it's a Smittybilt x20 10k w/ steel cable. Will be adding a 2nd battery at some point.
Do you have any form of caster correction currently?
I have caster plates, but I haven't installed the lift yet. So they're brand new sitting in a box. It seems like the radius arms are a better option (plus no welding required) and I can just sell the plates.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Just put your lift on. Take it to get alignment specs. Determine what you need. Buy it. Install it. Then get it aligned. I wouldn’t try to guess.
Fmc80 beat me to it. You have to put the lift on first. Then get an alignment to see what your caster is. Then you can order the correct arms. Trust me. I was impatient and am on my 3rd set of delta arms. So unless you like wrestling radius arms under your truck, put the lift on and the bumper and winch+cable then see where she sits.
alia176
SILVER Star
Most folks know this already but be sure to torque down the hardware ONLY after you're resting on all fours and rocking the 80 side to side. Also, be mindful of the serrated flanged hardware - these are not meant to be rotated. Otherwise, the four biting edges will lose their effectiveness. Basically, anything flanged (nuts or bolts), don't rotate them 
I recommend getting a lifetime alignment from Firestone as they're nationwide and after the first alignment, it pays for itself in spades. I'd get an alignment before doing any lift installations in order to get a baseline of numbers. Otherwise, if you have a tweaked this or that, you'll be forever chasing it after lifting it. I've had a lifetime alignment on my DD since 1990 .
It goes w/o saying, measure the height between the fender flare edge and center of hub before you do any work. It's always good to have solid lift numbers for future troubleshooting or just basic knowledge of your 80. Sometimes our 80s have leans for no apparent reason.
I recommend getting a lifetime alignment from Firestone as they're nationwide and after the first alignment, it pays for itself in spades. I'd get an alignment before doing any lift installations in order to get a baseline of numbers. Otherwise, if you have a tweaked this or that, you'll be forever chasing it after lifting it. I've had a lifetime alignment on my DD since 1990
.It goes w/o saying, measure the height between the fender flare edge and center of hub before you do any work. It's always good to have solid lift numbers for future troubleshooting or just basic knowledge of your 80. Sometimes our 80s have leans for no apparent reason.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Looks like others have you lined out well. I would suggest connecting with @Delta VS also if your plan is to go radius arms.
I love, love, love mind, they were epic on slick rock and the Rubicon.
The guys at Delta have the arms dialed in and are very knowledgeable.
I have a dobinsons 3" lift with c59-170&171 heavy springs. Running Delta vs 3" radius arms and a custom DC front driveshaft, without the DC I'm within 0.5° front flange to drive shaft angle. I had a local drive shaft shop take apart and rebuild a brand new Toyota factory front drive shaft.
Some '80s need a DC some don't. I went with the DC shaft because my front output transfer case flange ended up being negative (facing up a bit). Yes, my motor and transmission mounts are brand new.
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Front transfer case companion flange is typically 2* up and rear 2* down.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Thanks for this. My front diff flange is facing in the correct direction, up towards the Tcase 2ish degrees, however the Tcase flange is also facing up not parallel 2ish degrees down towards the diff. I'm still researching this but it looks to be the reason some 80's need a DC and some don't.
My front driveshaft wasn't happy, so I played it safe with a DC added to the new factory one.
I still get a slight growl right between acceleration and deceleration I'm still trying to hunt down. Any ideas?
