Seeing this situation is there a 3.0 version that may correct any bar contact? And by looking at his shocks the longest it could be are L’s (OME), and they’re are so many longer shocks on the market now that will definitely cause contact if the L’s barely hit.
A “high-clearance” version is definitely something we are looking into but we need more info on the setups that are like this to move forward with that,
but please keep in mind longer shocks aren’t going to change anything. The axle, steering linkage, and radius arms
are fixed in relation to one another, no matter how long shocks are.
Sorry long day at work and decided to wash the mud off the cruiser when i got home. Measuring from level ground to center bolt hole on each panhard bolt and subtracting the difference i am right at 4.5" difference. It's good to hear that my circumstance would have produced the least amount of clearance though the thicker bars like marlin crawler or slee's would make things that much worse still. Would a longer shock make the issue that much worse? Was originally thinking about upgrading to the dobinsons tapered springs front and rear once i get a little weight on the vehicle and their 6" shocks in front, currently run their 4" all the way around. I know baldilocks run them on the front.
Thanks for the measurement. No, longer shocks won’t change anything. Can you take some pics from all around your front suspension and email to
dave@deltavs.com please? On flat ground for now, front of axles, etc.
I don’t get why the arms are made in multiple pieces, unless you don’t have machinery capable of cutting anything thicker.
We made a radius arm out of 3/4” plate for my buddy’s truck and it’s been fine. Similar to the Superior Engineering arms, we just welded bushing cups straight to it. It’s been a champ.
We figured it if ever gave us problems we would use some 1/8th or something and I-beam it. It’s been on the truck for three year with no issues.
Come to think of it, the arm might have just been 1/2” plate. I don’t remember.
I’m not sure what there is to get. These arms are designed for ease of
repeatable manufacture, at a price point low enough that folks can benefit from them (which is working becuase we can’t keep them in stock). Fab time is pretty darn low, and there are multiple configurations that need to get dealt with.
A single 1/2” plate arm would be nowhere near strong enough for a product that is sold (might work for “your buddy’s rig”, but not a customer), 3/4” plate is difficult to process and limits the number of vendors we can work with and the timeframes we need (it could be ordered from an out of state laser shop, etc, but that adds a lot of lead time and potential for mistakes, which sucks).
What about welding over the area that was ground down? Or, boring and appropriate number of fastener holes through the arm beneath the reworked area and apply a clamping force with grade 8 bolts? Are these arms not over engineered enough to allow for some material removal to ensure no tie rod/arm interference?
If somebody wants to be able to return them, not a good idea to modify them. If you are capable of grinding them, re-welding them, and then re-coating them so they don’t corrode, and aren’t worried about returning them for any reason, then by all means, modify to your hearts content.
And no, they are not over-engineered to allow grinding and reshaping. They are designed to be used as is, and on all the rigs we’ve put them on, there is considerable clearance which is why more pics of your setup and now @Chrisw023’s setup are all of a sudden higher on the list of things we need.
