Delta VS Radius Arms (2 Viewers)

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When my buddy and I built radius arms, we laser cut them out of some 3/4” plate, then welded bushing cups to them which we turned on a lathe. Seemed easier than this and it was very easy to make room for tie rod clearance.

Not as flashy as these, but it continues to do its job on the truck we put it on.

View attachment 1701483

Have any pics of the finished product?
 
Howdy folks. Getting rid of two one sets of prototype radius arms if anybody is interested. These will never be made again, therefore there will be no service/support after the sale. The black set (powder coated, never driven) will require steering to be in front of the axle, and potentially interfere with anti-sway bar (will depend on your setup). The FDE (painted, driven many miles on/off-road) set will work with fully stock setup, was installed for many miles on 2.5 OME lift, no drop on anti-sway. You can see some tire rub, the tire/wheel combo this rig runs are the FJCruiser steel wheels (17x7.5, set in a little) and 315/70/17 tires. If you run more of a stock offset, good chance there will be no rub. SOLD

Neither set will come with bushings (unless you want to add that in for additional cost).

These have the same correction geometry (adding 5.7*) our production arms (about to be announced) have. This works great with the above mentioned 2.5 OME lift.

Price: $600/set

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Howdy folks. Getting rid of two sets of prototype radius arms if anybody is interested. These will never be made again, therefore there will be no service/support after the sale. The black set (powder coated, never driven) will require steering to be in front of the axle, and potentially interfere with anti-sway bar (will depend on your setup). The FDE (painted, driven many miles on/off-road) set will work with fully stock setup, was installed for many miles on 2.5 OME lift, no drop on anti-sway. You can see some tire rub, the tire/wheel combo this rig runs are the FJCruiser steel wheels (17x7.5, set in a little) and 315/70/17 tires. If you run more of a stock offset, good chance there will be no rub.

Neither set will come with bushings (unless you want to add that in for additional cost).

These have the same correction geometry (adding 5.7*) our production arms (about to be announced) have. This works great with the above mentioned 2.5 OME lift.

Price: $600

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PM Sent.
 
I saw your production arms are now on the website. They look very nice and I like that they are much narrower than stock. I see that you have both a 2" and 4" castor correction option. You mind sharing how many degrees of castor correction in built into each version? For guys sitting at 3" of lift, it might be handy in deciding on which one to go with.

Also, do you have any pictures of articulation with the arms? I'm sure people would be interested in drag link clearance.

Again, these things look like a great product.
 
I saw your production arms are now on the website. They look very nice and I like that they are much narrower than stock. I see that you have both a 2" and 4" castor correction option. You mind sharing how many degrees of castor correction in built into each version? For guys sitting at 3" of lift, it might be handy in deciding on which one to go with.

Also, do you have any pictures of articulation with the arms? I'm sure people would be interested in drag link clearance.

Again, these things look like a great product.

You bet! They are designed to be at the high end of stock caster range (2*-4*) at stated lift. As in, the 2” lift arms put you at 4* at 2” of lift. This means at 1” of lift you are slightly more than 4*, a decision we made based on a lot of drive testing. Having slightly more caster, but not excessive, makes driving way nicer when it comes to handling. It also makes it so if you have 3” of lift, you can choose the 2” arms OR the 4” arms, depending on your desired caster. For example, if you have 3” of lift you could choose the 2” arms and have something close to the minimum Toyota spec for caster OR you could choose the 4” arms and have slightly more than the Toyota spec caster. Working on a chart that shows actual caster at different heights for each arm.

Does that make it clear as mud?

Thanks for the kind words!

Some pics (if these don’t cover why you’re looking for will have to borrow forklift again so it’d be a bit):

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Nice looking product there. From an engineering standpoint, is there an advantage to mounting the radius arms to the lower side of the axle as aopposed to the upper side.

Radius arm flips have been done on 80’s having 4” plus lift and those who have done it report all around improved front suspension performance and handling.

I have wondered if something we don’t realize has been given up by doing this.

@Delta VS
 
Nice looking product there. From an engineering standpoint, is there an advantage to mounting the radius arms to the lower side of the axle as aopposed to the upper side.

Radius arm flips have been done on 80’s having 4” plus lift and those who have done it report all around improved front suspension performance and handling.

I have wondered if something we don’t realize has been given up by doing this.

@Delta VS

Thank you!

From an engineering perspective, in this case, I would have to say YES. Engineering is all about cost/benefit and finding the "best" solution. What defines "best" is usually the hardest part of any project. For this project, part of the "best" solution includes a low-cost product that a person with average mechanical skills can install themselves. Radius arm flip projects do not fall into that category (requires welding, etc), much like 3-link projects.
 
Thank you!

From an engineering perspective, in this case, I would have to say YES. Engineering is all about cost/benefit and finding the "best" solution. What defines "best" is usually the hardest part of any project. For this project, part of the "best" solution includes a low-cost product that a person with average mechanical skills can install themselves. Radius arm flip projects do not fall into that category (requires welding, etc), much like 3-link projects.

My curiosities are more to do with leverage, forces, traction, durability, etc.
 
You bet! They are designed to be at the high end of stock caster range (2*-4*) at stated lift. As in, the 2” lift arms put you at 4* at 2” of lift. This means at 1” of lift you are slightly more than 4*, a decision we made based on a lot of drive testing. Having slightly more caster, but not excessive, makes driving way nicer when it comes to handling. It also makes it so if you have 3” of lift, you can choose the 2” arms OR the 4” arms, depending on your desired caster. For example, if you have 3” of lift you could choose the 2” arms and have something close to the minimum Toyota spec for caster OR you could choose the 4” arms and have slightly more than the Toyota spec caster. Working on a chart that shows actual caster at different heights for each arm.

Does that make it clear as mud?

Thanks for the kind words!

Some pics (if these don’t cover why you’re looking for will have to borrow forklift again so it’d be a bit):

View attachment 1802843 View attachment 1802844 View attachment 1802845 View attachment 1802846

This is a really great approach, and I appreciate that you did it that way. I would always choose to be on the high end of the caster range based on my personal driving preference, but most of the products out there are kind of "one size fits all," or more like "one size, kinda fits."

This has got me, a self-described cheap-ass, really thinking about those arms :cool:
 
Any plans on making zero added caster for us guys who welded in caster plates before your products came out?
 
Any plans on making zero added caster for us guys who welded in caster plates before your products came out?

No plans for that, but can certainly do a custom set fairly easily. How much lift do you have? Only ask because of arm length difference.
 
@Delta VS, I'm speccing out a 4 inch lift for the end of the year. I plan on incorporating your panhard bracket. These arms seem like a cool alternative to welding in plates. How strong are these arms compared to stock? I have friends with the SLEE 6 inch arms and those things are BEEFY! They are basically rock sliders LOL.

I'm sure you have though this through and I'm curious as to your thinking by designing them how you did
 
Any plans on making zero added caster for us guys who welded in caster plates before your products came out?
You know you can just grind your weld off right? I had caster plates and went to Slee arms no issue
 
@Delta VS, I'm speccing out a 4 inch lift for the end of the year. I plan on incorporating your panhard bracket. These arms seem like a cool alternative to welding in plates. How strong are these arms compared to stock? I have friends with the SLEE 6 inch arms and those things are BEEFY! They are basically rock sliders LOL.

I'm sure you have though this through and I'm curious as to your thinking by designing them how you did

Glad to hear you're planning to incorporate our products! Thank you very much.

Really hard to say how strong the arms are "compared to stock" since it's hard to say how strong the stock ones are. Ours are engineered to withstand significant forces all along the arm (as in dropping off a 40" tire onto the center of the arm, etc). Braking forces are essentially trivial compared to that type of thing. Our arms are quite a bit more optimized for weight than the SLEE arms, and ours are a laser cut and welded structure versus a gigantic chunk of steel.

You know you can just grind your weld off right? I had caster plates and went to Slee arms no issue

Brilliant idea. Best way to know you're ending up with the proper caster, AND it'll be less expensive.
 

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