32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
I believe the book for this is 6-8 hours labor plus parts (starter, manifold gasket etc).
The book value is about 3.5 to 4 hours dependent which dealership or independent mechanic shop for labor.
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I believe the book for this is 6-8 hours labor plus parts (starter, manifold gasket etc).
I don’t doubt that but seems shockingly low given that the manifold comes off etc but then again I’m just and idiot on the internet lolThe book value is about 3.5 to 4 hours dependent which dealership or independent mechanic shop for labor.
Why do you need to manually jump this for the install?I'm not going to second guess it, these are in a million tundra's and sequoias. Very little chance of it arcing against something. I think you'd make a mess of the winding if you undid the bolt to wrap it.
Also for those brave enough to make a manual jumper with a screw driver, this would make it much easier
I think he means if you needed to jump your starter in the middle of nowhere.Why do you need to manually jump this for the install?
Dealership it is!!After another 5-6 hours of wrestling the starter is in and the truck is running.
Couple more notes on install for future installers:
You’ll have to install with solenoid disconnected. Just be sure to hook the solenoid plunger in between the fork of the motor.
After you reinstall solenoid you need to get the snout of the starter into the flywheel - close enough is fine.
Then you can reattach the power wire and the trigger wire. This is a pain and took me like an hour of grunting. The clip of my trigger wire of course broke so I jammed it full of dielectric grease and crossed my fingers. Once you get it in place there is lots of pressure holding it in. Gonna try to not lose sleep about this.
The bottom starter bolt is easy to reinstall but the top is a beating. The bolt is really long and the coolant hoses are too rigid to move out of the way. You have to push the starter toward front of truck as much as possible and painfully start the top bolt making 1/8 turn at a time progress.
Next you can reinstall the heat shield. I didn’t bother with top bolt. F that sucker. The foil gets super mangled going back in and there is no eat to avoid it. I found that installing the front bolt first made it easier to stretch it back in place and then install rear bolt. I then used a pry bar to try to shape it back to normal.
Then reconnect the coolant pipes.
Then reconnect the mid pipe
Then reconnect dipstick. This was a huge pain and I cannot get the tiny 10mm bolt into the keeper that mounts it to the head. Zip tied for now.
Check your coolant. I lost a ton.
Reinstall the outer heat shield. Again front to back worked better for me.
The fender aprons and wheel. Reconnect battery, pray to divine diety of choice and press start.
Omg.
Congrats to winning the battle. With that underneath your belt, there's probably not much you can't do.
Wondering if you think car care nuts rant is deserved now?
It’s young and eager to get spinning, get some years on that thing and I bet it will sound like the one you just took out.Something I didn’t expect, the new starter sounds distinctly different. Higher pitched and faster whirrrr.
Something I didn’t expect, the new starter sounds distinctly different. Higher pitched and faster whirrrr.
I’ll add a note that if you are doing this job, get a replacement o-ring (botom) for your dipstick tube, they are a known failure point and leak source on these 5.7s. I also replaced the dipstick and tube when I did this on my Sequoia, I had noticed the old dipstick tube didn’t seem long enough which prevented being able to secure it at the top to the block without pulling it slightly out at the bottom.