Daughter's '97 SR5 blew the head gasket

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alia176

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Tijeras, NM
I'm going to be looking for parts and figured I'd post up here. An Aisin timing belt+water pump kit will be purchased as well. . The radiator was getting pressurized after topping it off with water. I test drove it for a block and the radiator was pressurized and the tail pipe was spewing steam. The engine is under 200k mileage. Oil looked clean and at the correct level. Hopefully the heads aren't warped but won't know that until we pull them. Lots of "while you're in there" stuff will be replaced I'm sure. Some of the kits below include valve stem seals, which is nice.

Seems to be lot of options, but if you have a favorite vendor for the best $$$, pls let me know. The poor college kid 19yo is freaking out at the $$$$



Aisin timing belt kit More Information for AISIN TKT005 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1798452&cc=1272552&jsn=421&jsn=421


Edit: updated the model year from '96 to '97 in the title.
 
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The 96 has know head-gasket issues, but Toyota did replace a number of said, but another possibility and something that all 3.4L are pron to is cracks in the heads that would give you the same symptoms your listing. U should defiantly have the heads checked for said when you have them at the machine shop. On a side note the MLS gaskets didn't start getting used until 00 on the 4runners (could be 99 but 00 from what memory tells me), i bring this up because the RA (Roughness Average of the mating surfaces, ie block deck and head surface) numbers that were required for the Composite are lower then MLS, to say you'd need to have the block and heads re-surfaced to insure proper mating. If I were pulling the heads and replacing the gaskets the block would be getting new rings and bearing at the same time heads are being redone...
 
great info, thank you.
 
I would look for used heads, there is a good chance it's cracked between the valves of course HG is always to blame but if it started out as a misfire and clears up later heads could be crack. I would get the OEM gasket set too and head bolts.
 
If there's a cracked head, won't the oil + water mix and would the oil level in the pan come up? Or can they both go out the tail pipe? She has white exhaust during idling.
 
If there's a cracked head, won't the oil + water mix and would the oil level in the pan come up? Or can they both go out the tail pipe? She has white exhaust during idling.
I wish I have pictures, it's between the valves and it's seeping coolant. Oil and water will mix once the leak is big enough like a blown HG and water rushes out and dumps into the oil drain in the block. New heads are still available but it will cost you. Once you have the heads out look in between the valves if you see a hairline in between the valves it is done but have it pressure tested to make sure.
 
I wish I have pictures, it's between the valves and it's seeping coolant. Oil and water will mix once the leak is big enough like a blown HG and water rushes out and dumps into the oil drain in the block. New heads are still available but it will cost you. Once you have the heads out look in between the valves if you see a hairline in between the valves it is done but have it pressure tested to make sure.
sage advice, thank you.
 
Talk with Steve. He had an issue with cracked heads and might have insight on this.
Yup, we've been conversing on this. He'll be a good contribution to this fun project.
 
I'd never use that stuff unless I was in an emergency situation like trying to get back home while being on a trip or something. That stuff also plugs up everything else, like your heater core, if your going to make something reliable for your daughter then fix it right and put in the work required...
 
I'd never use that stuff unless I was in an emergency situation like trying to get back home while being on a trip or something. That stuff also plugs up everything else, like your heater core, if your going to make something reliable for your daughter then fix it right and put in the work required...
Thx for your feedback!

Work will be put in, and right the first time. Don't you worry none 😁👍🏽
 
I'd never use that stuff unless I was in an emergency situation like trying to get back home while being on a trip or something. That stuff also plugs up everything else, like your heater core, if your going to make something reliable for your daughter then fix it right and put in the work required...
Those of us that know Ash also know he won't cut corners on this repair.
 
Truth.

IIRC, last time he used Bars when he had to get from SoUT back to Tijeras. That was a long time ago.
I had to use it to get home from Death Valley last fall. It sure made a mess inside the engine and radiator. But, it was just enough to stop the leak, as long as I stayed on pavement. As soon as I hit washboard it would leak.
 
I"ve been shopping for HG kit and noticed that MLS gaskets are being sold through few vendors. Is MLS gasket suggested over the OEM gasket? Perhaps the OEM gaskets are also of the MLS variety due to an update?
 
I"ve been shopping for HG kit and noticed that MLS gaskets are being sold through few vendors. Is MLS gasket suggested over the OEM gasket? Perhaps the OEM gaskets are also of the MLS variety due to an update?
I have used OEM and never had any issues plus all the stuff you need is in the kit, I don't see any real advantage with MLS gasket but I would use new head bolts. If the heads are not warped have the machinist shaved the head to give it a fresh surface and get rid of any pitting. Get a new Knock sensor and harness while it's out.

Make sure to back flush the heater cores with hot water if possible and get a new radiator.
 
I have used OEM and never had any issues plus all the stuff you need is in the kit, I don't see any real advantage with MLS gasket but I would use new head bolts. If the heads are not warped have the machinist shaved the head to give it a fresh surface and get rid of any pitting. Get a new Knock sensor and harness while it's out.

Make sure to back flush the heater cores with hot water if possible and get a new radiator.

Sage advice, thanks.

Let me put together a wish list.

OEM gaskets 5VZ 3.4L Cylinder Head Gasket Set OEM TOYOTA 1995-1999 - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/3-4-5vz-95-99-head-gasket-set-oem-toyota/
valve cover gasket kit 5VZ 3.4L Valve Cover Gasket Set Genuine 1996-2004 - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/5vz-3-4l-valve-cover-gasket-set-genuine-1996-2004/ or 5VZ 3.4L VALVE COVER GASKET SET 96-04 - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/valve-cover-gasket-set-5vz-3-4l/

Upper intake plenum 5VZ 3.4L Upper Intake Plenum Gasket Genuine 1994-2004 - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/17176-620405vz-3-4l-upper-intake-plenum-gasket-genuine-1994-2004/
head bolt set 5VZ 3.4L Cylinder Head Bolt Set - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/5vz-3-4l-cylinder-head-bolts/ or 5VZ 3.4L Cylinder Head Bolts Genuine - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/5vz-3-4l-cylinder-head-bolts-genuine/
valve stem seal kit 5VZ 3.4L Valve Stem Seal Kit - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/5vz-3-4l-valve-stem-seal-kit/
knock sensor harness 5VZ 3.4L Knock Sensor Harness Genuine - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/knock-sensor-harness-5vz-fe-3-4l-oem/
timing belt kit Timing Belt Kit With Water Pump AISIN 5VZ 3.4L - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/5vz-3-4l-timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump-aisin/ or Timing Belt Kit W/ Water Pump AISIN 1995.5-2004 5VZ 3.4L - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/aisin-5vz-3-4l-timing-belt-kit-w-water-pump-1995-5-2004/
IGN wire set 5VZ 3.4L Ignition Wire Set Genuine Toyota 1995-2004 - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/5vz-3-4l-ignition-wire-set-genuine-toyota/
 
I would skip the MLS gaskets unless you can guarantee that the block and heads will be the proper RA that is specified for them.
 
Just went through this same thing on my son’s 4runner 3 months ago. Ended up replacing the engine. Every machine shop was minimum of 6 months out. Purchased quite a bit of OEM parts I did not use, drop me a note if you’re interested.
 

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