She's a beaut!
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Not yet. Just put them on. But just using a jack 3 inches of difference. Tuttle will be the test.So, how much difference do you notice with them on and off -- on the road.
Yes sir. Landcruiserphil makes them. I was going to do it. But sometimes my time is worth 80 bucks.Swaybar quick disco? Nice!
Thanks for that info. My measurements not scientific by any means were about 3 inches more down travel. I'm at 3.5 or so inches of lift and planing on going to 4. I could go further on the down travel but my drag link was sitting on my radius arm. Part of it I have castor plates up front meant for 4 inch lift so with a true 4 inch I should be able to squeeze more down travel as the axle will rotate up. I hope my theory is correct. If not I'll re do my steering up front and remove my rear drag link. But you are correct these rigs are stupid capable the way they are stock. Anyways I'm excited to tested it out at Tuttle and see.Mitch and I put them on his LX and we played with them at SMORR. I found we gained about 2" of travel disconnected using a forklift to max it out (OME 2.5" Heavies/Med plus extended brake lines). On Friday we drove connected and Saturday disconnected. Many of the same lines and trails were taken to compare plus we drove the Rover Thursday Disconnected (we modified some JKS Jeep disconnects for it) along the same paths the first day (level 2 & 3 trails...nothing crazy).
First to note, the disconnects made a huge diff on the Rover and it does not have a rear swaybar...night and day capability change. On the 80, not so much. Granted, this could be due to the moderate trails but we can't report any improvement in actual capability. There is no doubt the articulation did increase as we heard many new creaks and groans from up front. So much so that I was convinced that the springs may have been jumping out of their pockets of off their perches. I know that not to be true as the OME 2.5 lift set-up does not have enough travel in the shocks to allow that much downward drop but they certainly were unloaded. With the 80s rear sway bar attached I'm sure the opposing rear corner limits were being reached before the fronts thus pushing it back down. It would be a good test to remove the rear swaybar along with the fronts disconnected to see what that would do...besides stuffing the rear wheel in the well.
We did experiment on the city roads and the highway and there is a notable difference in confidence as the speed increased or turns were made. We have castor brackets with the lift, not the correction bushings and it felt as if we needed more castor without the swaybar attached up front. It felt darty. Body roll on city streets was OK but not what I would consider optimal for Mitch to be driving around in as the extra height could induce a tricky situation much quicker without it connected.
Investment was cheap so no regrets and maybe the dang rig is just so capable as-is that the diff wasn't measurable for us. Maybe for those with a taller lift, longer shocks or taking more aggressive trails they would prove to be more worthy. Just my two cents...
Nah. Nothing like snow wheeling with tube doors.Won't you get cold? Those look drafty.