D60 axle swap (1 Viewer)

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I know it's here somewhere but are there good options(cheap/fast/easy) for a D60 front and rear axle swap? Only axles, no suspension mods, ie links etc. This is for a potential 80 buggy build(breaking low $ records). Thanks.
 
I've heard 80 axles under a Rover, but not the reverse.

YMMV, your HG will pop if you do it.
 
I've heard 80 axles under a Rover, but not the reverse.

YMMV, your HG will pop if you do it.

If you say this more than 5x you PHH and HG will blow :meh:
 
A front D60 can be had pretty cheaply from a junkyard. My F350 has one and local yards are always full of 90’s era Fords.
 
D60= Dana 60 axles

Not anything Rover related.

Doh! -I was wondering why he was asking for trouble like that.

Your way makes alot more sense.
 
D60= Dana 60 axles

Not anything Rover related.
You could consider a Land Rover Salisbury axle for a swap into an 80. It's essentially a Dana 60 rear axle with a right hand offset pumpkin, probably not the worst candidate.

Not what the OP was getting at, but still interesting. I would say almost certainly not worth the effort given the size of the 80 rear.
 
@wv_lx450 @nukegoat

You want a passenger drop front D60. I think dodge and Chevrolet are your options there. For the rear, as long as you don't end up in DC driveshaft territory you can get away with a centered diff as long as the Tcase and pinion flanges are parallel.

Seems like the easiest route would be to buy a CUCV, take the axles, and part out the rest.
 
I don't see a cheap way to do this. You do need a passenger drop axle like older Chevy or Dodge. Or, if you have $$$ you could take a ford high pinion center and build it into a passenger drop with chevy outers and custom shafts.

A CUCV set is a Dana 60 up front and a 14 bolt in the back. It would be a good set up for a heavy duty 80 but it will be a lot of work.

Good luck and post up what you do.
 
@wv_lx450 @nukegoat

You want a passenger drop front D60. I think dodge and Chevrolet are your options there. For the rear, as long as you don't end up in DC driveshaft territory you can get away with a centered diff as long as the Tcase and pinion flanges are parallel.

Seems like the easiest route would be to buy a CUCV, take the axles, and part out the rest.
Or bury it, like the army does.
 
@wv_lx450 @nukegoat

You want a passenger drop front D60. I think dodge and Chevrolet are your options there. For the rear, as long as you don't end up in DC driveshaft territory you can get away with a centered diff as long as the Tcase and pinion flanges are parallel.

Seems like the easiest route would be to buy a CUCV, take the axles, and part out the rest.
My build thread has details. Not cheap or easy to do right but it gives you permission to hammer down
 
My build thread has details. Not cheap or easy to do right but it gives you permission to hammer down
I wondered where you were.
 
Ya, pas drop D60 from K30 or Dodge look like good candidates. I found a seller here with D60 and 14ff but wants 2k.. I'll check your build nukegoat.. Should I be picky about size of the 14ff diff? Is there an option to match the D60 front with D70 rear?(in a perfect world there'd be 4 of each on Craigslist)..
 
I know someone who has that very setup.
 
Honestly a k30 would not be my choice because you need to deal with dually hubs.

Nice part about a cucv pair is it already has 4.56 gears and a rear locker.
 
Ok see the D60 and D70 in action, nukegoat... after looking at that build, I quit...
So there's stuff I did to "do it right" - recentered both to align with the t-case, truss, coilovers, cut and turn for pinion, functioning e-brake, etc. You could probably creatively get around a few things though.

1) Run single cardan shafts - if it's a buggy, just make sure the pinions are coplanar with the outputs of the t-case. No need to recenter.
2) Run a part-time kit in the t-case - you can then just focus on getting the caster angle right and run it in 2wd.
3) Keep it lightweight and run the t-case gears (or wait for the magical doubler that will probably never come out). You can stick to 5.38s and then run a 14bff rear end
4) Leaf springs?

But here's the thing - you probably want to run bigger axles because you want to run stickies or big tires or both. All those things requires a lot more than just the axle housings... you'll want 35 spline stubs, upgraded lockouts, better knuckles, high-steer, lockers, etc. That's where you end up dumping the money
 
The big idea here is:
-1 wrecked 1996 80 hit in the back something fierce(frame ok): 1000$
-chop off back section of body from rear wheel opening back(kinda a big extra cab)
-cut out front fenders, relocate bat, probably remove ABS(possibly install metal tech 40 tube fenders 300$)
-39's: 1000$(used)
-factory rear locker: 700$

3k, an axle swap and a bunch of chopping: no crawler but something with low intro cost(time $) always nice...

Alternative D60 D70:
That said(above shows a bit of how I may do things): if I find a D60 D70 can I just cut perches and weld on 80 brackets from the 80 axles, using all stock 80 suspension(this is the low budget build recall ie "buggy" may have been the wrong thing to call it)..
 
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