Cv Boot Replacement cost (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

@2001LC what is FDS?

if this is true, it could be an alternative for the price:

Toyota OE Remanufactured CV Axle Part Number

I finally found it and ordered 2 for $106 from my local. Posting in case there are some that need it! Part # 434306004084

forum.ih8mud.com

Toyota online parts portals from Dealerships, started a core charge about 18 mo's. ago (or is when I first noticed) for 100 series FDS (CV). I've talked with my wholesale parts guy about these. He said Toyota offers a number different models Toyota/Lexus (like 4runner) rebuilt FDS. But is based on availability. No 100 series rebuilds yet available, or at least in times I've asked.

I'm very interest in the rebuilt Toyota FDS. My interest is in the outer CV, or more precisely the outer axle which is part of outer CV tulip. It's the outer axle splines and snap ring groove I'm after more than anything else. Local rebuilds from CVJ are okay, best if order w/OEM boots for extra $100 (talk about mark-up). But they do nothing about the axle splines nor do any rebuilders I know of, except paint to thicken splines (I hate that). Few times I've used CVJ. I like taking in my FDS (when splines are good) and request no paint. If splines are bad, I recommend new OEM FDS strongly.

As soon Toyota remanufactured available, I'll order some and inspect the splines & groove. I'm betting Toyota will replace those outer CV's in most cases, or I hope they do. Toyota reman stuff is pricery for sure. Not just because it says Toyota on the box. But according to Denso, a Denso reman Toyota branded, rebuilder is required to replace certain parts. Whereas Non Toyota branded Denso, it is at discretion of rebuilder as to what parts replaced. So I would expect they'll be a very nice alternative to new.

BTW: For those that haven't noticed: New OEM FDS have increased in $ ~50% in 2 years. Talk about aggressive pricing!

FWIW, The 80 series birfield snap ring fits the 100’s center shaft where the outboard inner race goes on. But simplest and cheapest approach for rebuild is to just buy the outboard kit. Rarely is the inner joint compromised.

4346069145​

View attachment 2822114

Good to know about snap ring! THX!

I agree about kit. I had asked about these outboard from local Toyota parts dep, about 5 years ago. I was told no longer available. I've since found overseas, but yet to order any.

 

[3_puppies]

I haven't checked new pricing in a few years, figured they went up but not by 50%
what is that making them now, $800-850?

 

[2001LC]

Current list $652. Toyota online portals are about $450-$475 plus $40 core each, plus tax, plus shipping which is up too.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I agree about kit. I had asked about these outboard from local Toyota parts dep, about 5 years ago. I was told no longer available. I've since found overseas, but yet to order any.

FWIW, I’ve bought a handful of them from Toyota parts places here in the states for $180-195 per kit. Can usually get two kits shipped for $50. The most recent pair I bought was from cheapestfactoryparts.com, where I got both kits ($185/kit) with shipping for $420 total. So for $30-80 less than the price of just one new FDS, I rebuilt two OEM units.

 

[Rpreme]

Alright I knew this was coming.

Just installed brand new OEM CV axles about 6 months ago and the driver side inner boot is slinging grease as of last month, now passenger side is starting to sling a little grease. No rips on any boots, I’m assuming it’s just the clamps getting loose? Currently have a Slee diff drop and 2.5” lift.

Would it be best to just regrease and reclamp? Or replace with a longer CVJ red inner boot for more durability?

Any feedback would be appreciated!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Alright I knew this was coming.

Just installed brand new OEM CV axles about 6 months ago and the driver side inner boot is slinging grease as of last month, now passenger side is starting to sling a little grease. No rips on any boots, I’m assuming it’s just the clamps getting loose? Currently have a Slee diff drop and 2.5” lift.

Would it be best to just regrease and reclamp? Or replace with a longer CVJ red inner boot for more durability?

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Replace the clamps with McMaster-Carr smoothband worm drive clamps.

 

[Rpreme]

Replace the clamps with McMaster-Carr smoothband worm drive clamps.

Thank you for this and I have already purchased 2 of them. I’ll swap them out. Have you had problems with the worm drive clamps ripping the OEM boots? Been hearing mixed reviews about this.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Thank you for this and I have already purchased 2 of them. I’ll swap them out. Have you had problems with the worm drive clamps ripping the OEM boots? Been hearing mixed reviews about this.

As long as you got the *smoothband* clamps, you won't have an issue. The edges of those are rolled to prevent cutting into the boots. If you did not buy the smoothband clamps, then yes, the normal clamps with sharp edges will cut your boots. Also, the torque spec on these is really low (26-35 inch-lbs), so don't overdo it.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

Hi guys,
From all the suggestions and knowledge you guys put into this thread, I decided to change the whole CV Axle. Here are some pics of the old axle and you can see the rip on the boot.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Hi guys,
From all the suggestions and knowledge you guys put into this thread, I decided to change the whole CV Axle. Here are some pics of the old axle and you can see the rip on the boot.View attachment 2832008View attachment 2832007View attachment 2832006View attachment 2832005View attachment 2832010

Junk aftermarket axle anyways. Good thing you replaced it.

 

[DoneThoo2]

I noticed grease all over the wheel on the drivers side yesterday and pulled the front wheels off this morning and saw this on the drivers side. 3rd picture is the passenger side. 282k miles, I know the drivers side axle was replaced before I bought it last year. I just replaced both inner axle seals. I will pull both axles today and see if they are a complete replace or just a reboot. I do have a diff drop to keep the angel from being so sharp.

I

 

[2001LC]

I noticed grease all over the wheel on the drivers side yesterday and pulled the front wheels off this morning and saw this on the drivers side. 3rd picture is the passenger side. 282k miles, I know the drivers side axle was replaced before I bought it last year. I just replaced both inner axle seals. I will pull both axles today and see if they are a complete replace or just a reboot. I do have a diff drop to keep the angel from being so sharp.

I View attachment 2950175View attachment 2950176View attachment 2950177

You just need a re-clamping of small inner CV boot clamp. NAPA carries them. Just ask for small CV boot clamp. 30 minute job.

If you've lifted rig. Slee diff drop always a good idea. But diff drop or not. Lifting done on broken-in front drive shafts (AKA CV). The inner CV tends to fail in time.

 

[DoneThoo2]

You just need a re-clamping of small inner CV boot clamp. NAPA carries them. Just ask for small CV boot clamp. 30 minute job.

If you've lifted rig. Slee diff drop always a good idea. But diff drop or not. Lifting done on broken-in front drive shafts (AKA CV). The inner CV tends to fail in time.

@2001LC It is lifted and I do have the diff drop. I was mainly using this rig for overloading and weekend off-road trips. But a few weeks ago it became my daily driver. and Next month I will be driving it from the left coast to the right coast.

Thanks for the input. I will swing by the auto parts store and see if they have any in stock.

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC It is lifted and I do have the diff drop. I was mainly using this rig for overloading and weekend off-road trips. But a few weeks ago it became my daily driver. and Next month I will be driving it from the left coast to the right coast.

Thanks for the input. I will swing by the auto parts store and see if they have any in stock.

If inner CV fails, it will give plenty of early warning usually. Clicking in turns!

BTW: NAPA has the crimp tool, for the clamp. No need to even pull wheels off to re-clamp. But really helps make easier, to put front end on jack stands. Chocking the rear wheels for safety.

 

[Cosmo Kramer]

Post very clear pictures of grease seen in wheel well and points where boot leaking from.

Most just need re-clamping. Others have ripped boots.

If boot ripped open and you lost a lot of grease. Which grease is very sticky and hard to wash away. I'd test front drive shafts very closely. If any question as to its health, which also includes condition axle splines. I'd opt for replacement of FDS, over reboot.View attachment 2819904




I've seen some very hard to "pop-out", seem stuck. I use my 5lb sledge hammer.
View attachment 2819912

that drift with the assistance of a hammer makes getting the cx axle easy in and out. Don't just use a hammer

 

[DoneThoo2]

If inner CV fails, it will give plenty of early warning usually. Clicking in turns!

BTW: NAPA has the crimp tool, for the clamp. No need to even pull wheels off to re-clamp. But really helps make easier, to put front end on jack stands. Chocking the rear wheels for safety.

@2001LC What is the best way to remove the clamp without tearing the boot?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

@2001LC What is the best way to remove the clamp without tearing the boot?

Fold the tabs open, pry up on the clamp, cut off the clamp.

 

[menancyandsam]

So I'm in the middle of rebooting. Is this something I should be concerned about.
The gouging is in the same location on all six sides.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

So I'm in the middle of rebooting. Is this something I should be concerned about.
The gouging is in the same location on all six sides.

View attachment 3063447

View attachment 3063448

Ditch it. You need a new joint. Is that inner or outer? If outer, you can get a new outer joint + tulip + boot assembly for $200 from Toyota. If inner, then you’ll need a new cv axle assembly.

 

[menancyandsam]

Its the inner.
What harm can I do if I run it as is. The balls look ok.