Cv Boot Replacement cost (2 Viewers)

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Boot kit part # is 04427-60120

Not a difficult DIY if your are somewhat mechanically inclined.

Just grab a beer, friend, and have a movie playing in the background. It's a little tedious.

You'll also want these rounded clamps from McMaster if you don't have the clamp tool:

LineProductOrderedDeliversPriceTotal
15574K25Worm-Drive Clamps with Smooth Band for Soft Hose/Tube, 304 Stainless Steel, 4"- 4-3/4" Clamp ID Range, packs of 51
pack
Jun 19.14
per pack
9.14
25574K16Worm-Drive Clamps with Smooth Band for Soft Hose/Tube, 304 Stainless Steel, 1"- 1-5/8" Clamp ID Range, packs of 101
pack
Jun 111.34
per pack
11.34
Merchandise$20.48
 
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Boot kit part # is 04427-60120

Not a difficult DIY if your are somewhat mechanically inclined.

Just grab a beer, friend, and have a movie playing in the background. It's a little tedious.

You'll also want these rounded clamps from McMaster if you don't have the clamp tool:

LineProductOrderedDeliversPriceTotal
15574K25Worm-Drive Clamps with Smooth Band for Soft Hose/Tube, 304 Stainless Steel, 4"- 4-3/4" Clamp ID Range, packs of 51
pack
Jun 19.14
per pack
9.14
25574K16Worm-Drive Clamps with Smooth Band for Soft Hose/Tube, 304 Stainless Steel, 1"- 1-5/8" Clamp ID Range, packs of 101
pack
Jun 111.34
per pack
11.34
Merchandise$20.48
Thanks man! I kind of am noob interested in doing it myself. But for now I'm kinda in a hurry since I have a long trip the next weekend and if I work on it it'll take longer than a weekend. Haha.
 
Thanks man! I kind of am noob interested in doing it myself. But for now I'm kinda in a hurry since I have a long trip the next weekend and if I work on it it'll take longer than a weekend. Haha.
A lot of these 100 series have leaking/seeping boots at their current age. You can get away with it for a long time depending on how bad it is.
 
$300 for labor sounds a little high but not completely unreasonable if you trust the mechanic — it’s a big job. But definitely find out what is covered, and might as well have him repack the wheel bearings at the same time as it won’t add much labor.

Rebooting the CVs would be a terrible introduction to wrenching, imo. You want to start with changing the oil or the brake pads...not with disassembling the entire front end.
 
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Hi guys,

Passenger side Cv boot is leaking and was shown to me when I went for an oil change. He quoted me $350. Is that a reasonable amount for replacement of cv boot?
Post very clear pictures of grease seen in wheel well and points where boot leaking from.

Most just need re-clamping. Others have ripped boots.

If boot ripped open and you lost a lot of grease. Which grease is very sticky and hard to wash away. I'd test front drive shafts very closely. If any question as to its health, which also includes condition axle splines. I'd opt for replacement of FDS, over reboot.
Boot front drive shaft.JPG




Anyone ever have the axle get stuck in the diff on a high mile truck?
I've seen some very hard to "pop-out", seem stuck. I use my 5lb sledge hammer.
Drive shaft.JPG
 
any idea how many miles on the axles?
if high miles, IMHO I would just replace with new ones
going thru all that work to remove the axle, to repair the boot if it has 200,000+ miles, replace it and be good for another 200,000 miles
 
any idea how many miles on the axles?
if high miles, IMHO I would just replace with new ones
going thru all that work to remove the axle, to repair the boot if it has 200,000+ miles, replace it and be good for another 200,000 miles
Yeah, if the outboard splines are worn, it’s not worth rebooting. Needs outer tulip and joint replaced at minimum, or just buy a new assembly.
 
Just would like to add my 2 cents here, if indeed the boot is torn and leaking grease rebooting the factory axle is the way to go coz if they are just going to swap the old axle with China made junk I would wait and find a shop that is willing to do a reboot with factory parts. My 2003 4runner with 2UZ which I bought from my friend at 235k with both inner boots completely gone and I drove it for another year before I decide to replace it since in my mind it must be toast from all the junk and no lubed but when I got it out and clean and inspected it the the inner CV did not show any signs of wear or even pitting so I decided to get a boot kit and rebuild both front axles after install it was good as new for about a little over $100 in parts and elbow grease. Keep us posted on what you end up doing to it.
 
Just my 2 cents, my cv boots were leaking both sides. Was like that for 3+ yrs. it was getting really messy. Replaced both sides with new axles at my local shop for $550. You can save money by diy, but I just didn’t have the time with my work/personal life.
 
I will have it done right by a trusted mechanic
"Done right" is debatable. Before you choose a path, you really need to consider the mileage on your existing axles and the severity of wear on the outboard shaft splines. I've rebuilt about a dozen of these axles so far, some of which I sold to members here, others of which I simply gave away to members who were in a tight spot. For 80% of those axles, a simple reboot and regrease would have been a complete waste because the outboard shaft splines were so badly worn; a reboot + regrease would've been akin to putting brand new tires on a truck with a rotted, broken frame. Those axles required an actual rebuild with new outboard tulip + outboard joint + reboot + regrease.
 
" "Done right" is debatable. " That is for sure!

Most shops do not clean outer CV, they just add some new gease and boot it. DIY, tend to clean with brake fluid, which does not get very clean IMHO.

I too have done a number of reboots. I've found it take seven 10 minute soakings & flushing with solvent to get the outer CV tulpe clean.

Watching a video, I did see, it is possible to disassemble outer tuple. But not easy and need snaping that don't come with kit.

Money is better spent on new OEM FDS, rather the reboot labor. If FDS does pass rigorous inspection.
 
@2001LC what is FDS?

if this is true, it could be an alternative for the price:
 
It's FSM speak for CV - front drive shaft. What you and I think of as the front drive shaft the FSM calls the front propeller. I stick with what people understand the terms as, even if it's not the "correct" lingo from the FSM. Would hate to have someone removing their drive shaft chasing down a CV problem.
 
Watching a video, I did see, it is possible to disassemble outer tuple. But not easy and need snaping that don't come with kit.
FWIW, The 80 series birfield snap ring fits the 100’s center shaft where the outboard inner race goes on. But simplest and cheapest approach for rebuild is to just buy the outboard kit. Rarely is the inner joint compromised.

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7EECA53B-85EF-41A7-A3F3-04595AE3190E.jpeg
 
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