CV Boot Clamp/Strap Replacement (pics)

[rusty_tlc]

If you are concerned about the balancing (act), you can actually take two smaller clamps at put them together to have a "balanced" clamp (one screw at each side of the axle). Concern would of course be that you get another "thing" sticking out that could potentially get hung on a branch or a rock. But, I'd actually would be more concerned over the actual boot ripping than the (hose) clamp getting stuck.

Hoser, you beat me to it

If a rock gets that close to your CV you have bigger problems than a torn boot.

 

[Zane]

Putting on one of these OME style CV Boot Clamps is just as easy as putting on one of the hose clamp styles you guys are talking about. For the cost of the $14 tool its nice to know that you don't have to worry about the potential balancing and tearing issues you bring up.

It is truly self explanatory once you look at the band/clamp and tool together. 1. wrap band around boot. Slide end of band into band slot. Then put the band end through both the tip of the tool as well as through the slot located in the winding part of the tool. Take a open end wrench and twist bolt on tool until you get the desired tension and then bend band back over itself. Tap tabs around band to keep in place. Remove tool from band end and cut off remaining banding.

I have no idea the true effects of using the garden hose style clamps, but for the $14.00 its one less thing I need to worry about.

Just my 2 cents...

 

[spressomon]

OK, after successfully replacing the smaller CV Boot clamps with the Single ear crimping style CV boot clamps I started to see leaking around the larger OEM CV boot clamps that where not replaced and decided to replace all of the larger bands as well. I Purchased the same style clamp as I used (in post #3) for the small side and for one reason or another I had issue getting them tight enough.

The problem I have found with the "Crimping" style is that you can only get them so tight. So, I went out to my local CarQuest parts store, who was the only parts store in the greater Kansas City area to carry the OEM style bands that you tighten and then bend back over itself, and purchased 4 big bands plus the tool.

This is the way I should have gone from the beginning. I'm not saying that the crimp style is horrible, they just have a limit to how tight you can get them. They work fine for the smaller CV boot end, but not for the larger CV boot end. My small CV boot bands are holding nicely and I will keep them as is unless they loosen up. If they do, I will replace with the OEM band style.

I just wanted to give my observations and experience for those choosing what direction to go when choosing clamps. Attached are the clamps and tool style I went with for my Larger CV boot Clamps.

This is the clamp style I just used when I rebooted a couple weeks ago rather than the OEM which I already know is problematic. So far so good. And although they are not really designed to be 'uncoiled' and installed when the CV is on the rig I 'unwound' mine with a little effort and it worked just fine. So retrofit when the CV is on the rig should work.

 

[EL_3grab]

I've mentioned this in another thread. Best clamp's to buy are the 360 degree seal T-Bolt Clamps

Is there enough space to use this type on the bigger side of the boot?

http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...nWidth=812&ToolsetID=ToolPageFlip&ToolsetAct=

 

[hoser]

I used the same type of clamps (as described in post #16). I tightened them down pretty good but when it was time to to fold it over, I always lost a bit of tension. So, I had to compensate by making it initially tighter to get the results I wanted.

The hose clamp seems nice because you can fine tune it and tighten it a bit more if you find leakage. The way it is now, I'd need to cut the existing clamp and redo it. Not hard but not as easy.

EL_3grab, I like those clamps but they are significantly bigger. The constant tension hose clamp is nice too but way large.

 

[newbee mechanic]

CV Joint Reboot/Cleaning - Someone please help

I want to reboot and clean the CV joint, but how do you take the half shaft apart? I got the shaft off the diff, but I cannot figure out how to get the center shaft off between the 2 cv joints. Do I have to wack the end with a copper hammer? Is there a c clip somewhere? I have hit a brick wall.

 

[spressomon]

I want to reboot and clean the CV joint, but how do you take the half shaft apart? I got the shaft off the diff, but I cannot figure out how to get the center shaft off between the 2 cv joints. Do I have to wack the end with a copper hammer? Is there a c clip somewhere? I have hit a brick wall.

Well...you remove the boot clamp from the larger diameter side of the inner tulip to access the c-clip. IFWY I'd get the FSM pages to do this correctly. And you might want to spring for the OEM reboot kit that contains: Boots, CV lube (already measured out in tubes for inner/outer) & bands.

Hint: After you remove the c-clip be sure to PAINT (not center punch or other similar methods) match marks on the aligning parts.

Get the FSM!

 

[newbee mechanic]

I did do some research and found some interesting youtube videos on how to get the cv joints off the shaft.

This guy employs the "pipe trick", basically wacks it off.
YouTube - Pipe Trick pt 1

This seasoned mechanic wacks it off freehand with a copper hammer.
YouTube - Replacing A Broken CV Joint Boot

This guy show the lube and slide trick, messy.
YouTube - CV Booot relplacement. Bailcast

Found nothing specific to an LC cv joint.

I am not ready to wack the cv joint off and I want to do
a thorough cleaning. Is there a safer way to do this?

Once I get the center shaft off I'm pretty sure I can
do the rest, I'm hoping I don't have to buy the FSM.
Seems, I just need a tip or two, to get the center shaft off the CV center race.

 

[spressomon]

I did do some research and found some interesting youtube videos on how to get the cv joints off the shaft.

This guy employs the "pipe trick", basically wacks it off.
YouTube - Pipe Trick pt 1

This seasoned mechanic wacks it off freehand with a copper hammer.
YouTube - Replacing A Broken CV Joint Boot

This guy show the lube and slide trick, messy.
YouTube - CV Booot relplacement. Bailcast

Found nothing specific to an LC cv joint.

I am not ready to wack the cv joint off and I want to do
a thorough cleaning. Is there a safer way to do this?

Once I get the center shaft off I'm pretty sure I can
do the rest, I'm hoping I don't have to buy the FSM.
Seems, I just need a tip or two, to get the center shaft off the CV center race.

Remove the c-clip under the boot as mentioned above. Match marks; then a brass hammer or brass drift...that'll do it. And per Rusty_tlc's tip to me: Use toilet paper to mop up the cv grease/lube: Cheap, absorbent & works great! About 2-tall cans of brake cleaner per CV axle is what I used to get everything nice and clean.

No scanner at home but if you PM me your e-mail address I'll e-mail you a few of the important pages. Probably won't be until Wednesday or Thursday though.

 

[newbee mechanic]

SPRESSOMON, thank you very much for FSM.

I finally get it, I think.

1. So the inboard CV joint simply slides out, cage, balls middle shaft and all, once you remove a large diameter(4,5inch) c-clip inside the tulip(outer race), as you said before, twice. Then, there is a c-clip, which retains the inner race onto the shaft. Remove the inner race from the shaft and now you can slide on the new CV boots.

2. The outboard CV joint cannot or should not be disassembled. And that's why it took 2 tall cans per shaft of brake cleaners to clean out the old grease. Is that right?

I will give it try this weekend. Thanks again.

 

[spressomon]

SPRESSOMON, thank you very much for FSM.

I finally get it, I think.

1. So the inboard CV joint simply slides out, cage, balls middle shaft and all, once you remove a large diameter(4,5inch) c-clip inside the tulip(outer race), as you said before, twice. Then, there is a c-clip, which retains the inner race onto the shaft. Remove the inner race from the shaft and now you can slide on the new CV boots.

2. The outboard CV joint cannot or should not be disassembled. And that's why it took 2 tall cans per shaft of brake cleaners to clean out the old grease. Is that right?

I will give it try this weekend. Thanks again.

Yes.

This thread may help you some:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/162716-turn-pop-pop-pop-2.html

 

[UltraFJ40]

Hooray, I get to join the club. Thanks for the great write up Zane.

I was under my truck yesterday and this is what I found.

Last one.

Both sides are leaking a good amount. and will require some grease replacement. Anyone have a preference as to which grease. Thanks in advance.

FWIW: I have the OME TBars cranked. What do you guys think of my angles?

Spresso I might need to ask you for some FSM info as well. If you don't mind.

Thanks,

Doug

 

[cruiser100]

Did mine this weekend:

The clamps and tightening tool. Fold over type clamps. Purchased online from PartsAmerica for less than $20.

Drivers side - before.

Passenger side - before.

Drivers side cleaned. Used a wet rag (water) and dried it with another.

Clamp unfastened. Used needle nose pliers to pull tabs back.

Old clamp pulled down for removal. Cut it off with tin snips.

Continued...

 

[cruiser100]

Continued...

Old clamp removed.

More cleaning. Pulled boot back and cleaned shaft and inside edge of boot with small screwdriver wrapped in microfiber towel.

New clamp on and "threaded".

Tightening tool attached.

Clamp tightened until boot could not be rotated on shaft by hand. Don't over tighten/distort the boot or you could cut the boot and be in for a much bigger job.

Job complete.

Passengers side was the same. Took about an hour for the drivers side - first time changing clamps on an LC and had to find the right angles of attack. Passenger side took about 30 minutes.

I'll check everything this weekend to see if the leak is gone.

 

[Zane]

Great addition to this thread! I recommend this type of CV boot band over the crimping kind that I started out with.

 

[cruiser100]

You're original thread got me inspired, that and the leak.

 

[UltraFJ40]

Hey Cruiser 100, what type of grease did you use? (if any)

Thanks in advance.

 

[e9999]

nice pics. C100, how did you like the clamps style and the tool?

 

[cruiser100]

Hey Cruiser 100, what type of grease did you use? (if any)

Thanks in advance.

Didn't use any. Based on what I saw around the boot and on the surrounding components, it didn't look like much leaked out.

I did figure out how to get grease in the boot - when you take the lower clamp off and push the boot back, there is enough room to get a small diameter tube into the joint. You can use a small grease gun...

 

[cruiser100]

nice pics. C100, how did you like the clamps style and the tool?

The clamps I liked, the tool could have been a bit shorter. Once I had the clamp tightened it was difficult to maneuver the tool to keep the tension on the clamp while I folded it over. It was trial and error on the driver side until I found the right angle (even broke a clamp in the process). The pass side went much quicker.

Also, I didn't remove my wheels; if I had I don't think the tightening would have been an issue as you would have a lot more room to maneuver the tool.