Cut off switch installed! (1 Viewer)

[Gottagetone]

So when I hooked up my winch, that I am currently rebuilding for a number of reasons, I decided to add a cut off switch. I did this for two reasons; to keep people from messing with it and to keep my battery charged, one of the problems I was having was that it was drawing power when not in use but thats in another post.

I found a cut off switch at Northern Tool for about $10 and fabbed up a bracket that mounts to the drivers side bolt that holds the radiator in place. The switch sits right behind the grill and out of the way of anything.

Made it from bar stock and coated it with enamel

 

[Tapage]

which it's the amp rating on it .?

 

[Gottagetone]

50 Amp, would it make a difference if I run it on the negative cable?

 

[69fj4069]

Don't run it on the ground side because your winch probably grounds threw the frame anyway. The ground wire is just extra. I wouldn't trust a 50A switch even thow I'm sure some people are going to chime in that they have been using them for years with no issues. Would it be hard to just disconnect the winch when you aren't using it? What about an Anderson conecter?

 

[1911]

50 Amp

Matt, what winch are you running? Most winches draw WAY more than 50 amps, especially at start-up under load.

 

[FMKV]

wouldnt you be looking for more like a 2 to 300 amp switch for Im guessing a 10,000 pounder

 

[Gottagetone]

The motor is a new Tuff Stuff 12k Lb, I think its 6.5 hp motor that I am trying to fit to my Smittybilt winch. After building the bracket I am and installing it I am rethinking the deal. An Anderson connector may be the way to go.?.

 

[Pin_Head]

Switches have several different types of ratings: An intermittent duty rating might be 1000 amps for 1 minute or 300 amps for 2 minutes or it could be 50A continuous duty, all for the same switch.

That particular switch is claimed to be for starter motor duty, so it presumably can handle a large load for a short time.

 

[1911]

This article from the Overland Journal has some interesting real-world measurements of actual current drawn (maximum at start-up as well as average during a pull) by five different common winches, including a 12K winch: Tug of War: The Ultimate 12v Winch Test

Between the five winches, the maximum draw (start-up spike) ranged from 460 to 769 amps, and the average current draw during the pull ranged from 133 to 165 amps.

 

[Gottagetone]

Lee an Pin Head, thanks for the info. Does this mean I have a good chance of melting the switch?

 

[Tapage]

Lee an Pin Head, thanks for the info. Does this mean I have a good chance of melting the switch?

yes .. if your winch draws much more amps / time than switch can handle

 

[Gottagetone]

Well crap, looks like I will need to get a better switch...Here is the one I bought - Calterm Electronics Battery Cut Off Switch — 100 Amp Continuous | Switches + Fuses | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[FMKV]

look at west marine They have HELLA cut off switch 500 amp for 10 sec and continuous 100 amp this might be good for u

 

[1911]

Matt, you might be OK because most winch pulls are less than a minute and like Pinhead said the switch probably has a higher rating at less than continuous use. I like a large safety margin myself.

 

[Gottagetone]

I may give it a shot but don't want to deal with a melting switch in a situation that I really don't need a melting switch. Even the Hella one seems like it could be a problem after reading the article above.

I may give it a shot on the driveway after I install the new motor and see how hot that switch gets.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

That switch isn't rated anywhere near what a typical winch will draw

I use the same key switch on my winch, but on the low current remote wires, not the main power leads

If you really want a switched system on the cheap, get a heavy duty solenoid

I'm using one for power to both of my winches (of course, they're used one at a time) as well as an Anderson connector for heavy duty jumper cables

Shut down main power with the flick of a small toggle switch

 

[Gottagetone]

Thats smart, I may rewire solenoid, thanks!

 

[Gottagetone]

How about this switch Switch Power Cutoff - Heavy Duty 5000 Amp or this one Switch Red Keyed Cut-off 200 Amp?

The first is definitely better but the 2nd fits the amperage draws shown in the article above.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

How about this switch Switch Power Cutoff - Heavy Duty 5000 Amp or this one Switch Red Keyed Cut-off 200 Amp?

The first is definitely better but the 2nd fits the amperage draws shown in the article above.

Don't bother with the red key switches for main power.

Most of them are identical and packaged with false ratings

I actually melted a claimed 300amp version on my Golf Cart's winch

Apart from a heavy duty Anderson connector or an uberspensive marine grade switch, your best bet is the solenoid I posted above


Here's the one I have installed under the hood that cuts main power to both winches...

It's controlled by a simple switch under the dash...

Each winch has their own safety cut-off key switch that sends sends power to the controller circuit (low current) which can be used by either the hand controller or the interior control switches (seat heater switches)

 

[Trollhole]

This is what I run. Probably overkill but I know I never have to worry about it.



Can usually be found for around 50 if you look hard. Blue Sea Systems - Heavy Duty Battery Switch, 4 Position Heavy Duty, 5