Builds Custer’s Saggin’ Wagon Gets A Reboot (1 Viewer)

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Do you have a part number or source for the M14 hose end on that hooks to the evaporator? I've only been able to source one or two but they are sketchy websites.

I’ll trade you one for an H pipe. I need to get rid of the plastic tees in my truck.
 
Awesome build....thanks for sharing.

Does that engine have the active fuel management? Gonna tune it out?

Thanks!

This is an AFM/DOD motor, but those functions were not included in the tune.
 
Next up - wiring...

I always save this for last, since it’s one of the more detailed parts and it helps to let it marinate & have your unconscious do the mental work behind the scenes before you start. But also because wires are the easiest to route/move, and make last minute changes.

As an experiment, I ordered this harness with an extra foot of trunk to play with the layout. So the first order of business was to find a location for the ECM & TCM (Gen IV have a separate trans computer).

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I decided to bring the main bundle out the back of the motor & across the firewall instead of coming straight off the drivers side of the motor like is normally done.

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Once I was happy with the plan, I put the finishing touches on the computer mount...

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I like to move the factory harness from being exposed on the inner fenders to hidden behind the fender panel. Since this harness had the nice braided loom, I used some matching material for any factory or additional wires I had to run. It is extra prep work that way, but the results are worth it.

Finished product:

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I’ll trade you one for an H pipe. I need to get rid of the plastic tees in my truck.

Deal. I still want your source ;)

Nice tidy engine bay. Hard to keep it clean with second battery, clutch master, winch wiring, etc and it gets full quick. I like how you use the wiring loom to plug the clutch master hole.
 
For the DBW pedal, we went with a Corvette pedal. It needs modification to fit anyway, so I welded it to a plate that bolts into the factory holes, cut off the Corvette arm and bent & welded the 60 pedal arm to the nub.

End result, it looks & feels stock:

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With the pedal mounted and the required electrical connections made, I had a local exhaust shop fab up a system.

Quiet was the top priority over rock crawling clearance (this truck will not be wheeled), so he squeezed in the biggest resonator & muffler he had.

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Why did you chose to keep the drive by wire versus converting to a cable?

My guesses are: less work to stick with the DBW setup, harder to convert a Gen IV LS to DBC, sourcing parts adds to swap costs, etc.

Those were my reasons to stick with the DBW setup my motor came with.
 
^ that and there’s absolutely zero reason to, IMO.

I’ve driven Fords that seem to have a 5 second delay from throttle input to reaction, but I can’t detect any with these.
 
At this point, everything was installed except the evaporator under the dash. We opted to replace it since it needs to come out to flush it properly anyway and to replace the expansion valve, and they are still available and reasonably priced.

I was expecting the worst, but there were no mice or other critters living in the system. Just like the rest of the truck, things were very clean.

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The newest expansion valves are designed for R134...

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I had a mini panic attack when the new expansion valve wouldn’t thread on to the refrigerant tube.

Turns out they supply an adapter to reduce to the existing fitting and that was still in the box:

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All assembled and back in the truck w/ the fittings poking back through the firewall...

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By the time I lubed all the orings and double checked all of the connections, I only had time left in the day to vacuum the system for an hour or so.

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I let it sit over night and was happy to come out in the morning and see that the gauge hadn’t budged.

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Whoa bros.... major party foul...

I forgot to include the startup video :grinpimp:

 
This was actually the second start. The first start went just as smooth, but while it was warming up, I noticed that the fuel rail fitting wasn't snug and there was a little drip.

(Didn’t want you to think I woke a motor from a several month sleep and immediately started revving it!)

You may notice the starter sounded a little crunchy. It ended up needing to be replaced. Unlike the Toyota V8s, this is a relatively painless affair. Almost as easy as the 2F.
 
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Back to the AC...

Since we are losing the factory tach signal, we’ll need to modify the AC amp to work without it.

You can read about the theory in The A/C Amp Thread , or just follow these pics to see which resistor to remove.

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I extended the Toyota AC clutch wire to the GM compressor (plus a second ground wire, which the Toyitabdoesnt have), charged up the system, and had it cycling in no time.

Vent temps are in the low 40s depending on fan speed and amount of sunlight coming in the big windows.

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