Builds Custer’s Saggin’ Wagon Gets A Reboot

[FJ60Cam]

Before we could pull the transmission, we needed a little more room to work under the truck. The goal for this truck is to have a nice smooth ride. It will not be going offroad, or getting any armor or a winch, and it won’t be loaded down, so we put an OME Medium kit on, with ‘B’ springs in the rear to give it as level a stance as possible.

We also put on some new shoes - 33/10.5 BFG ATs. Perfect tire for all around use.

Now it looks the way it should have arrived from the factory.

 

[FJ60Cam]

I’ll try not to litter the thread with high pressure sales pitches or advertising, but if you see a part or product shown, I probably sell it, even if I don’t advertise it. By all means, if you have a great relationship with a vendor, please keep supporting them... but if you’re looking for one (and the consulting that comes with the sale)... I’d love to help you out

 

[FJ60Cam]

The lift install was the perfect time to replace the steering ends. In this case, a new round of 555s...

These are bare, and will rust quickly once in the elements, so it’s a good idea to paint them before installing.

 

[JTU]

What sway bar extensions did you use?

 

[FJ60Cam]

What sway bar extensions did you use?

I got these from @cruiseroutfit

 

[FJ60Cam]

Then the trans/tcase was removed

Since I was juggling multiple projects, I clicked the easy button and sent the tcase to Georg. It comes back nice & clean, freshly rebuilt, and attached to the adapter.

In this case, we’re using the Advance Adapters Splitcase/4L60E Adapter.

To actually mate it to the transmission, you need to pull the tailhousing, install the 4 bolt adapter, and trim the output shaft...

 

[FJ60Cam]

All assembled:

This was also a good time to swap the new hummer/muscle car oil pan and test fit the Camaro manifolds.

One of the things I was not happy with on my truck was the AA universal engine mounts. They are pretty harsh and transmit quite a bit of vibration. This time we are using the stock GM rubber mounts. Those do not work with the nice Corvette manifolds w/the built-in O2 bungs. The rear dump Camaro manifolds clear the motor mount and tuck tight enough to run the exhaust inside the frame rails.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Initial test fit underway...

 

[Cruiserdrew]

So obviously, it doesn't fit. I think we should try it in mine .....!

Seriously, looking good Cam.

 

[cruisermatt]

What brand spark plug wires are those?

 

[FJ60Cam]

What brand spark plug wires are those?

No idea. They came that way from the donor. Don’t see a brand/mfr on them.

 

[FJ60Cam]

What brand spark plug wires are those?

No idea. They came that way from the donor. Don’t see a brand/mfr on them.

Nevermind. They’re AC Delco 9770.

 

[cruisermatt]

Nevermind. They’re AC Delco 9770.

Thanks. Looks like those are the Corvette wires. I like the looks of those a lot more then the original truck wires, they look like they hug the motor a lot tighter.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Originally, the plan was to buy all of the parts that TLC sold to make installation a snap. When I called, they said they no longer sold them - they were hanging on to the remaining stock for house builds.

@zprovo bought the last set and he graciously offered to let me borrow them for fitting purposes (not my style to actually copy them). I suspended the motor from this beam to see how it looked with the weight on the truck.

Ultimately, I wasn’t totally happy with their motor placement, so I moved it forward a little to give it a little more breathing room around the firewall and not require as massive a fan shroud.

I bought a bunch of different GM brackets to play around with and finally found some that could be easily adapted.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Once the engine placement was finalized, I moved on to the crossmember. The simple 1x3 rectangular tube version I made for my truck has served me well, so I did the same, but upsized to 2x3 tube this time around.

All of the mounting holes were sleeved to prevent crushing the tube and to keep water & debris out.

 

[spressomon]

^ like your attention to detail Cam! Right up my alley.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Next up was the fuel system. The inline pump is the quickest to splice in without dropping the tank, but mine started making noise after a while, and the install isn’t as clean as I’d have liked. I vowed to do in-tanks from now on after that.

Huge thanks to @Anthony Miller for the tip... Mounting a fuel pump inside the fuel tank for my LS swap

I was about to go with a more expensive setup, but the Tanks Inc GPA kits fit the 60 tank like a glove, and don’t cost much more than an inline pump.

 

[FJ60Cam]

First, drop the tank (it would be nice if it would drop straight down between the frame rails )...

Step two, buy a new tank...














... (or just clean the old one ) I’ve done a few of these now and feel pretty good about my system. I even still have my face and all of my fingers :knocksonwood:.

I drain the tank of all gas, pull the sender, and connect my shop vac hose in the blow configuration (don’t want to suck fuel vapors into the motor).

Once it is completely dry, I fill it with one gallon of Simple Green, and top off with water, sloshing it around as I fill, and let it sit for a while. I then do another soak & slosh with soapy water.

Then I drain and do the shop vac routine again until dry. At this point, you shouldn’t smell any fuel vapors. If you do, repeat the above until clean. Or take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it clean.

Like Anthony noted, the 60 tank is set up for an in-tank pump. There is already a fuel reservoir tray located below the circular embossed area.

Before I cut, drill or weld, I put the shop vac hose in the sender hole (in the suck configuration this time) to keep air moving through. The idea that the fuel:air ratio is too low for sparks to ignite if any vapors remain.

Mark the center, drill a pilot hole, then drill the main hole...

There is a threaded split ring that gets tack welded to the inside of the tank. It just needs to be held in place, no continuous beads. First mark and drill the screw holes, and bolt the ring below with truss head screws while you tack it in...

 

[FJ60Cam]

Next, clean and smooth the mounting surface, and measure & trim the fuel pump assembly to length...

Here’s a pic of the tray below. Like it was made for this...

I cut the pickup/return tubes short and bent them shut & welded them closed on the outside vs. making a block off plate.

AN fittings are the way to go on the fuel system. In this case, two 90s route the hose through the tunnel in the tank.

There’s a vent fitting in the pump plate, but since I’m retaining the factory venting, I capped this. If you are running a CA smog setup, it would be the perfect place for the tank pressure sensor.

Finished product:

 

[Javelin]

So you did B springs on all 4 corners? Looks great