- Thread starter
- #41
Builds Custer’s Saggin’ Wagon Gets A Reboot
- Thread starter FJ60Cam
- Start date
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I really like how your truck sits. My kit came with an A and B for the rear to compensate for lean. I put my A on the drivers rear and B on pass rear
Your front looks higher than mine. Are you running heavies in the front or longer shackles?
Your front looks higher than mine. Are you running heavies in the front or longer shackles?
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- Thread starter
- #43
It is high in that pic - it didn’t have an engine in yet. Right now it sits pretty level.
Those are some sweet graphics you have there!
Thanks! So it still sits like that pic with the engine in?!
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- #45
Fairly close, the front sits a little bit lower than that pic now. I’ll post pics once everything is in and it has a full tank of gas.
Subscribed. So much valuable info already. I made a promise to myself that I'm doing this swap one day... Keep the pics coming!
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- #47
Next, clean and paint the frame up front.
The paint under the hood cleaned up well except the area under the battery, so no need for a full repaint.
The paint under the hood cleaned up well except the area under the battery, so no need for a full repaint.
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- #48
Ready to toss back in...
Home for good...
Home for good...
- Thread starter
- #49
On my build, I used the Lokar shifter that mounts directly to the transmission. It looks and functions great, but it has a rattle that I can’t get rid of.
We decided to go with a floor mount cable shifter in the hopes to decouple the vibration from the drivetrain.
While the engine was out, I made a bracket that mounts from below.
The 16” shifter is perfect for the trans mount style. You have to drop this one a few inches below deck to get a similar position, which ends up very close to the stock shifter...
Just barely fits above the transmission...
I put it in with a slight tilt to the drivers side - similar to the 1-2 pattern of the manual, but not as far over. A grommet takes up the extra space in the too-big shift lever hole in the boot and completes the install...
We decided to go with a floor mount cable shifter in the hopes to decouple the vibration from the drivetrain.
While the engine was out, I made a bracket that mounts from below.
The 16” shifter is perfect for the trans mount style. You have to drop this one a few inches below deck to get a similar position, which ends up very close to the stock shifter...
Just barely fits above the transmission...
I put it in with a slight tilt to the drivers side - similar to the 1-2 pattern of the manual, but not as far over. A grommet takes up the extra space in the too-big shift lever hole in the boot and completes the install...
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Any reason why you went from the 4 speed to an Auto? Preference?
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- #51
In this case, customer preference.
In my case, I got tired of DD’ing the manual and wanted an auto.
You would definitely want something with OD, and buying an H55 or GM manual would have added to the cost.
Awesome work Cam.
Looks awesome! Kinda good to know I’m not the only one with that annoying rattle in the shifter. I’ve thought about pumping the shaft full of grease so that cable wouldn’t rattle, just haven’t got around to it yet
-Ed
- Thread starter
- #54
If you ever had to drop a tank to replace a fuel pump, you know what a PIA that is. So, we added a fuel pump access door 
This is a 6x6 unit from Tanks Inc.
They have a smaller 4x4 door, but I didn’t feel that would allow enough room to easily get the fittings off and maneuver the pump in/out.
Due to the location near the sender, I’d probably go with a 4.75 x 8 door next time.
Since it’s practically on top of the sender panel, I left some of the rib in place, even though it landed inside the opening. The final resting place was chosen for having the most flat surfaces to mount to. Foam weatherstripping (doubled up in the low spots) keeps it sealed.
M6 license plate screws w/nutserts hold it down and shouldn’t be felt under the carpet & padding. I’m also going to tape the door seam with aluminum faced tape for further sealing and rattle prevention.
This is a 6x6 unit from Tanks Inc.
They have a smaller 4x4 door, but I didn’t feel that would allow enough room to easily get the fittings off and maneuver the pump in/out.
Due to the location near the sender, I’d probably go with a 4.75 x 8 door next time.
Since it’s practically on top of the sender panel, I left some of the rib in place, even though it landed inside the opening. The final resting place was chosen for having the most flat surfaces to mount to. Foam weatherstripping (doubled up in the low spots) keeps it sealed.
M6 license plate screws w/nutserts hold it down and shouldn’t be felt under the carpet & padding. I’m also going to tape the door seam with aluminum faced tape for further sealing and rattle prevention.
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- Thread starter
- #55
If you are dropping the tank, do yourself a favor and replace the rubber filler neck hose. It has likely shrunk and turned to plastic by now, and a fresh hose is much easier to put back on...
Great work Cam.
What fuel pump are you using? Do you think the door is big enough to fit the GM fuel pump through? Right now I have an opening but no cover well other than cardboard and a spare tire for noise reductionIf you ever had to drop a tank to replace a fuel pump, you know what a PIA that is. So, we added a fuel pump access door
This is a 6x6 unit from Tanks Inc.
They have a smaller 4x4 door, but I didn’t feel that would allow enough room to easily get the fittings off and maneuver the pump in/out.
Due to the location near the sender, I’d probably go with a 4.75 x 8 door next time.
View attachment 1773146
Since it’s practically on top of the sender panel, I left some of the rib in place, even though it landed inside the opening. The final resting place was chosen for having the most flat surfaces to mount to. Foam weatherstripping (doubled up in the low spots) keeps it sealed.
M6 license plate screws hold it down and shouldn’t be felt under the carpet & padding. I’m also going to tape the door seam with aluminum faced tape for further sealing and rattle prevention.
View attachment 1773147
- Thread starter
- #58
What fuel pump are you using? Do you think the door is big enough to fit the GM fuel pump through? Right now I have an opening but no cover well other than cardboard and a spare tire for noise reduction
This door has a 6”x6” opening, but I’m not sure how big the GM pump is. How big is your opening?
This is the Tanks Inc GPA Series pump module. It’s a perfect fit above the built-in fuel tray. It matches the tank contour perfectly.
Not sure on the current opening size I would have to measure and the rig is at valley hybrids, I will mention it to Georg to see if this is a possible solution. The GM pump is pretty big but I don't think more than 6 by 6 however the
tells me men are no good at estimating size so I could be wrong
I made that decision based on getting older with one knee replacement already, so an Auto it is, I can drive this into my golden years.
