Builds Cummins 6bt/nv4500 build

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I got the newer top plate for the NV4500 in along with shifter housing and BD diesel short throw shifter. Will find out if the shift lever needs to be modified once installed. I also ordered a twin stick kit from fellow mud member orangefj45 for the 60 series split case. I wanted to keep the 2WD low range that I had with the pin 7 mod previously. These are the last bit of the parts I will get. I will leave it up to Jonesy's to get the rest once the conversion starts.

I have been missing the cruiser so much already that I am looking to buy another for the summer. I have been wanting to find a cheap beater for parts anyway. Looked at few locally but nothing worth the asking price. Cheap 95-97's are not easy to find right now.


Did you end up modifying your shifter at all? Now that I've gone to an NV mine hits the steering wheel. Just looking for ideas
 
Did you end up modifying your shifter at all? Now that I've gone to an NV mine hits the steering wheel. Just looking for ideas
I cut down and re-shaped my shifter. If I had to do it again, I might have left is about 2" longer.
 
I ended up changing my reservoir mounts on the front. I found some aluminum roll bar light mounts on Amazon that i mounted on flat piece of aluminum. It weighs much less that the steel. Every bits counts and i think it looks much better.
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I got the front shocks mounted today. Wasn't too bad. Only issue I had was the bushings I bought to replace the heim joints were a tad wide for the shock adapter so I just ground 2mm off each side. I also reused the original stem mount bushings and washers. It helped center the adapter in the hole a little better. Plus it added addition 3/4-1" to help maintain the same amount of travel I had with the OME shocks.
So here is the breakdown of costs so far that went into the front shocks.

$179.75 each - Bilstein 7100 series shock.
$23.99/pair - Explorer Pro Comp stem mount to eyelet adapter. You will need a pair for each front shock.
$10.22/pair - 19-920-BL bushing. Also a pair per shock.
$213.96 per shock total. Well below the cost of Fox, King, or Slee reservoir shocks. Not saying they aren't worth it but they are out of my price range.

Old shocks were toasted.


And the new installed. I want to mount the reservoir on top of the spring like Slee does. I just need to fab up a mount. For the rear I need to figure out how I will adapter them. I have a few ideas that I will try tomorrow or next weekend.
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Hey, this is timely for me as I'm wondering when it's time to replace all my shocks. I'm on standard OME shocks, and they're past 40k miles, 35k of that with the 6BT sitting on top of them. What's a good baseline lifespan for those things? My butt tells me it's about to be time to replace them, but I'm wondering if there's a more scientific answer out there. Thanks for the parts and pricing on your Bilsteins too, good reference point.
 
Hey, this is timely for me as I'm wondering when it's time to replace all my shocks. I'm on standard OME shocks, and they're past 40k miles, 35k of that with the 6BT sitting on top of them. What's a good baseline lifespan for those things? My butt tells me it's about to be time to replace them, but I'm wondering if there's a more scientific answer out there. Thanks for the parts and pricing on your Bilsteins too, good reference point.
I had roughly the same on mine. I started noticing my front end getting really bouncy and then it was to the point I couldn't drive it off payment without risking bottoming out the front. I still need to replace the rears but they aren't bad.
 
Mine is a pogo stick, no idea how many miles on the OME shocks... I am getting the slinky suspension installed on Friday and can't wait to have a more plush controlled ride.
 
Did you end up modifying your shifter at all? Now that I've gone to an NV mine hits the steering wheel. Just looking for ideas
If you cut it right you can shift 1st and 2nd with your pinky and not take your hand off the wheel. I ditched the stock dodge shifter ball which is pretty tall for a simple round ball due to a rattle. I ended up adding a spacer in to extend the ball closer to the wheel so I can keep lazy shifting.
 
If you cut it right you can shift 1st and 2nd with your pinky and not take your hand off the wheel. I ditched the stock dodge shifter ball which is pretty tall for a simple round ball due to a rattle. I ended up adding a spacer in to extend the ball closer to the wheel so I can keep lazy shifting.
You use first gear? :)
 
Finally had a break that I really don’t care about. Got home and noticed a green puddle on the ground after a few minutes. I thought the worst but opened the hood to find th AC line bleeding out. I don’t use it so no worries for now. I’m guess the stainless steel EGT probe wire was rubbing on it for the last year.
Turbo is getting a nice cool down.
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1/8 npt. I’m thinking low oil sensor if it’s low enough but I don’t think it is.
While working on my suspension install last night I spotted a leak coming from the same unused oil pressure sensor. I am going to pull it tomorrow and screw in the sending unit from my isspro guage...I am hoping they are both 1/8 NPT.
 
While working on my suspension install last night I spotted a leak coming from the same unused oil pressure sensor. I am going to pull it tomorrow and screw in the sending unit from my isspro guage...I am hoping they are both 1/8 NPT.
I believe they are. Good thing you caught it now.
 
If you cut it right you can shift 1st and 2nd with your pinky and not take your hand off the wheel. I ditched the stock dodge shifter ball which is pretty tall for a simple round ball due to a rattle. I ended up adding a spacer in to extend the ball closer to the wheel so I can keep lazy shifting.

Hah probably only if you have that bd short throw kit. I cut it down today and had a buddy tig weld it for me. It's not hitting the wheel now so thats nice. Much more pleasant than my getrag.
 
that unused sensor if I remember right is a 1 1/16", 1/4" npt. it's a pain with a wrench or you'll need a really deep socket and it's much easier from the wheel well with a bunch of extensions. The best way is to break off the plastic sensor part just above the formed metal, then a regular socket will fit.
Yup it was a pain. Hidden right behind motor mount and under IP so no good way to get to it. I did like you and broke it first, mainly out of frustration, then it was a bit easier.
 
that unused sensor if I remember right is a 1 1/16", 1/4" npt. it's a pain with a wrench or you'll need a really deep socket and it's much easier from the wheel well with a bunch of extensions. The best way is to break off the plastic sensor part just above the formed metal, then a regular socket will fit.

Yup it was a pain. Hidden right behind motor mount and under IP so no good way to get to it. I did like you and broke it first, mainly out of frustration, then it was a bit easier.

I pulled the old sensor out today, it was 1/8" NPT. I ended up plugging it up with a 1/8" NPT pipe plug.
 
I pulled the old sensor out today, it was 1/8" NPT. I ended up plugging it up with a 1/8" NPT pipe plug.
You didn’t add your new pressure gauge?
 
You didn’t add your new pressure gauge?
I put the isspro oil pressure sensor in, but they designed it where the body is larger than the hex portion of the sensor, which means you can't use a deep socket to install and have to get a wrench on it. Getting a wrench on in that spot is virtually impossible. For now i really just needed to solve the oil leak, i will figure out a way to extend it out for the new sensor later.
 
Finally got around to installing the Bilstein 7100s in the rear. Used the same adapter for the top mounts as I did the front. For the bottom bushing I reamed the hole to 3/4” to fit on the shaft. Here’s the only crappy photo I have. I’ll take more later as I want to mount the reservoir on the cross member but they are good to go for now.
The rear OEM shocks weren’t as bad as the fronts but definitely needed replacing.
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