Cummins 6bt Conversion

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mryanangel said:
I was worried about the hose memory, that hydraulic line doesn't like to twist much.

Your way of using seperate 90 fittings makes a lot of sense. Would be great if you could grab the length you used for the hose...not including the 90's.
Click to expand...

My way of routing may not necessarily be the best, again, it's probably best to reduce 90s in a hydraulic system and again the hose ends probably flow better than 90* adapters but... do as you feel. You could probably make it shorter too with more 90s but it's kind of up to you, restriction builds heat, although I don't think even with two 90s it'd matter too much for you and I don't think you'd notice any difference in box speed or anything else either so do as you feel and as packaging dictates. I just wanted to let it be known...

Mine is flextral 5k psi, 2' long end to end with fittings. It's kind of hard to see but behind the blue line it goes straight down to the pump and the pump has a 90 out the back pointing straight up. It's raining and dark out or I'd try to get better pictures. :confused:



The hose for my hydro assist is eaton weatherhead u series hose, 2 wire, and is 4k psi rated. I still think 3k would be plenty.

Sorry for the rambling.

Again that hose is probably about 5$/foot retail the fittings a fistful of dollars each and labor a little (doesn't take very long to make a hose). So 20$ give or take some.
 
Looks like that'll work, your hose will need to be shorter if you're going to route them that way though.
 
So I've been working on getting the spare tire out of the back, for both room and safeties sake.

This is a 39", KRT-B sticky compound race tire lol, but I do have a 40" matching spare to fix and get mounted.

Not the prettiest and I'm not the best fabricator but it's coming along. I wanted to take it down to my buddy Eric at Relentless Fab and have him to the whole think, custom bumper with swing out but that's a lot of $$$. SO...

2x6 .188 wall. Had Eric cut me out some gussets and some other parts for the swing out and ordered a 4x innovations spindle, although I probably should have used Erics as hes using 1" pins on his and this is a 3/4" bolt. Still need more gussets to finish it out but I need to go see him. SO much easier than free handing it with my plasma and then trying to clean them up.

The swing out arm is 2x3 .120 wall and then coming off the arm is 3x3 .188 with 3/16 mounting plate and 9/16 studs which match my 8 lug axle studs.

I picked up a giant wing nut (1/2-13) from Eric at Relentless Fab and drilled a hole through my arm for a 1/2 bolt and welded that to the bumper so I can use the wing nut to tighten the arm down secure. Drilled the end of the bolt and used a hitch pin to secure it.

Still needs some gussets and a license plate lights and whatever else. I plan on adding a hi-lift and probably some quick fists for a shovel to the back. Maybe I'll add a pull down table or something also. Also need to cap the ends of everything.



Added some L shaped gussets to the frame since the inside has those notches and it's also recessed some compared to the outside of the frame making it harder to weld. Also welded in that pipe to act as a crossmember while I cut the stock one out.



The angle is a bit deceiving here, it does take up a lot of room but not all of the back window.






So uhh yeah, definitely some concern about that much weight but I see JKs with pissy carriers holding 40s and mine is pretty beefy and with a better clamp than most run, so... ??? thoughts? suggestions?
 
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Looks good pretty solid. Hard to tell how the driver's side is secured, but as long as it's well supported and can't bounce it should take a lot of load off the 3/4" bolt. I think you will be able to get a good feel for how sturdy it is after your first drive. If it isn't bouncing around you did good. I have seen quite a few carriers with even 37's that you can watch the tire bounce around on relatively smooth roads.
 
Looks good, If it were me, I would add in a strut to old the gate open and just have the pin as am optional extra method of holding the gate open. I have a slee, and it'd a great bumper but opening the swing out is definatetly a 2 handed ordeal. A strut would allow you to pull the latch and let it open itself.
 
Of course it's been snowing the last two days, just enough to get everything rusty.

The strut is a good idea definitely.

Everything should be more rigid after I gusset and cap it all. That wing nut definitely clamps the arm down tight in all directions.



 
Well I have a pile of 4/0 and 2/0 welding cable now and a superwinch LP8500 on it's way. So I'm thinking maybe I'll run some new leads to the front winch too. I was thinking of making some sweet jumper cables with anderson styled connectors but damn for 2/0 gauge ones they're 50$ for a full set of knock offs. I wanted to do front and rear quick connects and make a new set of cables, but that's 100$ in quick connects! What else could I use this stuff for? All my grounds and starting cables are already 2/0
 
Went ahead and replaced my batteries as one of them died. Two group 34s. Should have done 24s, they're a little a taller and more CCAs. I definitely set myself up to fail when I built my battery boxes, as I built them around the batteries I had. One was a 27 and one a 65, so if I wanted to run the same batteries I had to go to these smaller batteries as the 65 and 27 are slightly different widths and lengths. Oops. Maybe next go round I'll redo the trays to fit two 65s.

Thought about doing AGMs but man are they pricey. I've had really good luck with interstates in the past and we ran a ton of them on our fleet of forklifts and those things are HARD on batteries. They were cheaper than any parts store battery and personally I think they're better.



I also did a little more work on my swing out tonight. Cut out some gussets, what a pain, definitely worth it to have Relentless Fab cut them out for me but I didn't want to wait until my next trip to Reno. I'm thinking a big gusset under neath the spindle too perhaps. And then once I cap the tube, put a triangle gusset between the frame and bumper on the back side of that spindle, and a few more gussets on the swing out arm itself it should be pretty rigid. It does shake some if I give the tire a good shove but it seems like it's mostly the upper tubes flexing. Can't see any way around that.



My LED license plate light came in. All the lights on Amazon I found for license plates either wouldn't work or had mixed reviews. This I THINK will work, with a custom 90* bracket, as long as it's not too bright.

http://www.amazon.com/TH-Marine-LED...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

It has good reviews and can even be mounted underwater so I figured it'd be perfect.

I also picked up a replacement mirror (just the glass) for the driver side mirror. 40s like to fling rocks unfortunately. Hopefully that's an easy fix and while I'm in there I'll do the zip tie trick to take the wobble out of it.

My winch ended up showing up too so I got to thinking about that. Theres plenty of room to mount the winch but I'm wondering how I'm going to run the fairlead and the cable. Thinking I need maybe a 2x8 piece of box tube and cut off about 2" of it and I'll plasma out a hole and weld it in after I clean it up some with a carbide bit (plasma edges weld for s***).

http://www.amazon.com/Superwinch-15...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

The big question is should I offset it some so I can still weld a piece of tube for a hitch receiver into the center of the bumper?

I also need to grab some 3/4" shackle mounts from Relentless Fab as well. I'll plasma holes and then weld them on both sides of the bumper, maybe onto the frame plates too if I can.

I moved that arm up just a touch that way I had about 3" below the arm to work with for all this. That's why I boxed in the top of the spindle sticking up over the bumper.
 
Still have more to do but pretty happy with how it's shaping up.

Cut holes in the bumper, for the winch cable, big enough for a chunk of 2x8 .188 wall piece of tube about 2 1/8 long to fit through. While I had huge holes in the bumper I drilled holes for the fairlead and then ran the bolts through with the nuts on the inside of the tube and ran beads around what I could get to. I wasn't sure I wanted to just tap the tube for those. Then I took the 2x8 and welded it in to box in the 2x6 I'm using as a bumper, then ground it smooth.

For my winch mount I'm using some 1/4 angle and some 1.5" .250 wall square tube. I plasmad out some square holes in the bottom so I could get to the top side of the tube to run my bolts through. Set them at 6" apart outside edge to outside edge then drilled the angle to fit the already existing holes on either side of the frame with captured nuts. The winch is just about 6" wide but the mounting holes fit almost dead center of the tube so it worked out nicely. I ended up welding some tabs to the front of the tube too, the part that sits closest to the bumper, then I used some tabs I had and welded them to the face of the tube and drilled and tapped the bottom of the bumper for some 1/2-13 bolts to add two more bolts to the winch plate. So now I have two 1/2" grade 8 bolts and 4 Toyota bolts of a similar metric size (12 maybe?). I think it should hold up okay. I also ran some tiny beads on either side of the winch plate to the frame so no one can just zip the bolts out and steal my winch too easily.

I'll have to relocate the solenoid pack to somewhere but that should be fine anyway.


 
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My drivers side mirror was broken so I pulled it apart, put new glass in it and fixed the shake it had by adding a zip tie on either side. So much better!

Also finally tracked down the wiring from the fuse box to the reverse switch and the wire from the reverse switch to the lights so I could tap into them for the reverse switch on the getrag. I'd been using aftermarket led lights to back up with but that doesnt work terribly well when I take my 80 around town at night, which isn't often... So thatll be way nicer.

Next I'm going to add some fuse blocks under the hood so I don't have to guess at what fuse holder goes to what and to clean up the clutter.

Then some rock lights from all4offroad Rock Lights
Probably put one or two under the hood. Don't think I'll use a pressure switch activated by opening the hood, probably just a rocker switch.

And theres plenty more to do before wheeling season.
 
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Tapped a tree coming down Cadillac hill on the Rubicon at night. Whoops.

What a cool trip though, my first trip to the con. We just wheeled into Rubicon Springs and then camped there. I can't imagine coming down Cadillac in an IFS rig or something towing a trailer, man them dudes have balls. Lots of fun in the 80 though. We were kind of scooting so only managed to get pictures at the top of Cadillac hill close to the staging area.















 
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