Cruiser won't start...HELP!

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WolfpackTLC

WolfpackTLC

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Ok, so in addition to breaking my right side NEWFIELD this weekend, the test truck for the TRD S/C Intercooler won't start. We blew his head gasket the first time around, so we pulled it and he sent the head off to be machined, cleaned, ported, and polished/Extrude Honed. Well, we buttoned it all back up yesterday afternoon, connected everything smoothly, but it won't start. I mean it won't even crank over... Battery checks out at 12.8 volts, starter was good when we pulled the head, everything come on in the dash, no warning lights... any thoughts? I'm at work now, but when I get off, I'm heading over to his house to look it over again... Any suggestions are helpful, as the hurricane is on it's way and the only other car he has is a Miata. That just wont' cut it...
 
WolfpackTLC

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Oh yes... according to our reader, it's not throwing any codes... we cleared them all... I'm thinking I'm missing a ground or something obvious... we were pretty tired last night and I was peeved about having to pull, clean, and replace ANOTHER birf.

J
 
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Desertmaster

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J,

I think your problem is electrical, like you said check the wiring again I bet you will find it.

Thanks

Al
 
WolfpackTLC

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22 people read this and nobody's got any ideas? I work on cars all the time (racing) and it's got to be something either REALLY obvious, or something I don't know about related to the 4.5 I-6. I was hoping some of you gurus would chime in...

(ahem)

(CruiserDan, Junk, Christo, Beowulf, etc...)

J
 
GXO

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Sounds like a bad ground to me...either the battery or the starter is not properly grounded.

you get a "click" but no starter? Or nothing at all? Nothing at all implied no juice or dead starter.
 
WolfpackTLC

WolfpackTLC

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No click... but the starter was fine when we pulled the head... he just did the contacts a couple of months ago, and he never had problems w/ it starting before... if it's the starter, than it's at least a (semi) easy fix. Voltage of the battery checks out, grounds on the batter and engine strap are 5x5. ECU was never touched.... argh!
 
landtank

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Since you're begging ;). Check the altenator connections really close. A bad connection would give you an OPEN in the circuit giving you a dead truck and since you were just there when tearing down the engine.
 
Landpimp

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sorry can't help you but using guru and Junk in the same breath.........is a bloody hoot :eek: :D

thanks for the laugh :flipoff2:

John

[quote author=WolfpackTLC link=board=2;threadid=5293;start=msg41441#msg41441 date=1063653613]
22 people read this and nobody's got any ideas? I work on cars all the time (racing) and it's got to be something either REALLY obvious, or something I don't know about related to the 4.5 I-6. I was hoping some of you gurus would chime in...

(ahem)

(CruiserDan, Junk, Christo, Beowulf, etc...)

J
[/quote]
 
Big_Moose

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There goes all the coffee all over the keyboard! Very, very, very.......................very funny :flipoff2:

Joe
 
Photoman

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This is from one of the many etc.'s. No. 1 check fuses. I will assume you have tried to make sure all electrical connections that were taken apart for work have been put back together . Next, based on what you said about having 12v at the battery I would start by testing the large wire on the starter for 12v. No = bad wire or connectors. Yes 12v = I would then make sure the small wire is on the solenoid and making good contact. Try to start. No - test small wire on solenoid for 12v when key is turned to start position. Yes 12v = bad solenoid (contacts etc.). No = check for broken wire from work. Next would be to continue to troubleshoot the circuit backwards such as Neutral Safety switch Cdan mentioned, Ignition switch, etc. May the power be with you.
Etc. (Bill)
 
Gumby

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[quote author=WolfpackTLC link=board=2;threadid=5293;start=msg41441#msg41441 date=1063653613]
22 people read this and nobody's got any ideas? I work on cars all the time (racing) and it's got to be something either REALLY obvious, or something I don't know about related to the 4.5 I-6. I was hoping some of you gurus would chime in...

(ahem)

(CruiserDan, Junk, Christo, Beowulf, etc...)

J
[/quote]

OK, I see how you all are. No mention of the Gumbinator. :'(

Really need a test light, but it sounds like you at least have a volt meter so that'll do.
12V to the starter stud?
How about 12V to the spade connector on the soliniod when the key is turned to start?
If yes then put the pos term of the meter on the neg term on the battery and put the neg term on the meter to the starter. Crank. More than .5V? ground problem. If less, bad starter or solinoid, check the contacts, or at least bang on the starter with a hammer a couple of times.
If no 12V to the soliniod wire, then you could have a few problems. You could have pinched a wire in the back of the head. That'd suck for you. :'( You could have popped a fuse, although I can't remember if there is one on that circuit. You could have a bad n/s switch, but that'd be weird. Try starting it in neutral for S&Gs. You could have a bad ign switch, again weird.
There's more, but supper's ready. Let us know how it turns out. :D
 
Landpimp

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[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=5293;start=msg41522#msg41522 date=1063669114]


I imagine that Junk was included for "balance" ::)
[/quote]

I think you mean "ballast" :D
 
IdahoDoug

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J -

Hope you've solved it by now, but a little more info would be helpful. Since we're not there, take us VERY specifically through what happens when you turn the key.

Click of starter solenoid or no?
Click of other behind dash solenoids, or no?
Dash idiot lights go out, or no?
With headlamps on do they dim or no?
Etc.

Definitely try tapping the starter while the key's turned - mine did this inexplicably a few months after the new starter contacts.

Hope it's running by now :->

IdahoDoug
 
WolfpackTLC

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Update:

After much crawling around on my back and killing my lower back bending over this particular 80, the owner's wife " convinced " him to take to the dealer and let them check it out. It's been there for well over a week now, and we've heard nothing. I have a Snap-on scanner and other various diagnostic tools and could find nothing. Everything mentioned here has been noted checked, and rechecked. Not to knock dealers (C-dan) but it's starting to drag on... The " master " mechanic seems to theorize that it's the I/C that we've plumbed in that is keeping it from starting. That is just plain ABSURD. If anything, it should cause a lean/rich condition, not a no start condition... geez.

J
 
landtank

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Hopefully the owners wife isn't like mine! I've been accused "Guilty" by association. "You were that last one put in gas... so you are responcible for that flat tire! :-\
 

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