Cruiser in crawl mode please help (1 Viewer)

[Trollhole]

My take.
Check your intake tube for cracks.
Excessive egr flow could mean a stuck open EGR. EGR open all the time is a big vacuum leak. Also the egr pipe can melt the harness at the back of the motor. Might check that.
MAF sensor. Make sure the connector is clean. Maybe clean the MAF.
Also check that there hasn't been a rodent building a nest in your air cleaner.

 

[CharlieS]

Is it something you could park until temperatures moderate? I'd be tempted to do that rather than attempt diagnosis and fixing in very frigid weather. I live in the northern US, where we typically get a good stretch of cold weather. Plastic and rubber get stiff and brittle and it is easy to create additional problems. I pretty much put a hold on big projects for a few winter months. Before I had a garage, there was very little chance I'd be working on a car outside in Dec/Jan/Feb.

 

[MrErer]

Truck struggles in high range, but moves without issue in low range.
Sounds like an open in the driveline to me. In high, you're relying on the VC in the transfer case to move the truck, which is going to slip. In low, the center diff is locked so you now have power to the wheels.

This is my big concern....But i did get home last night in H tho. But still really struggled from stop. How would i check/test a driveline...? I do have a FSM so will look for that page and more

 

[MrErer]

My take.
Check your intake tube for cracks.
Excessive egr flow could mean a stuck open EGR. EGR open all the time is a big vacuum leak. Also the egr pipe can melt the harness at the back of the motor. Might check that.
MAF sensor. Make sure the connector is clean. Maybe clean the MAF.
Also check that there hasn't been a rodent building a nest in your air cleaner.

Yeah i can check intake and air cleaner easy today. Too cold to spend time on EGR work right now, but ill run thru my FSM and tab the pages I need.

Gonna add some MAF sensor cleaner to my auto parts store list, along with Heet today.

 

[MrErer]

Is it something you could park until temperatures moderate? I'd be tempted to do that rather than attempt diagnosis and fixing in very frigid weather. I live in the northern US, where we typically get a good stretch of cold weather. Plastic and rubber get stiff and brittle and it is easy to create additional problems. I pretty much put a hold on big projects for a few winter months. Before I had a garage, there was very little chance I'd be working on a car outside in Dec/Jan/Feb.

I'm in the Midwest (StL Mo area) and well get into the low 40s early next week....so yeah I'm gonna let it sit and steal my wifes car if/when I need it.

I did a 100 mile trip just last Friday, a day before this cold spell, and it was fine; then that freeze came and thats all that changed, and changed rapidly. I kinda think the freeze is the culprit or generation of knocking something off...

 

[calokie]

When was the last time you did a fuel filter?

Hopefully the "but its a lifetime part" guys don't come a preaching, yes they are on here....
When weather improves I would definitely change your engine fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator and tank filter/fuel pump filter (nothing less than toyota factory of course)

 

[MrErer]

Hopefully the "but its a lifetime part" guys don't come a preaching, yes they are on here....
When weather improves I would definitely change your engine fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator and tank filter/fuel pump filter (nothing less than toyota factory of course)

Yep already ordered OEM Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump last night....didnt know about fuel pressure regulator, but ill shop one. As @cruzinfj1 asked...I have never replaced this group of parts in my 5 years of ownership; but ill get a good look at them when the new ones come in.

Lifetime parts guys can laugh at us, but preventative maint guys should nod in approval haha.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Yep already ordered OEM Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump last night....didnt know about fuel pressure regulator, but ill shop one. As @cruzinfj1 asked...I have never replaced this group of parts in my 5 years of ownership; but ill get a good look at them when the new ones come in.

Lifetime parts guys can laugh at us, but preventative maint guys should nod in approval haha.

Yep! Being in Wisconsin, cold weather brings out problems with symptoms that are easily overlooked or overthought. Had very similar symptoms as you two years ago after snow wheeling mine. Was pretty packed full of snow, and didnt have heat in that shop at the time. Ran just fine till I let it sit.... and it not thawing out completely. Pulled the filter and it was froze solid. Also, since then Ive ran nothing but ethanol free 91 in it. Not a daily driver anymore though.

 

[calokie]

Yep! Being in Wisconsin, cold weather brings out problems with symptoms that are easily overlooked or overthought. Had very similar symptoms as you two years ago after snow wheeling mine. Was pretty packed full of snow, and didnt have heat in that shop at the time. Ran just fine till I let it sit.... and it not thawing out completely. Pulled the filter and it was froze solid. Also, since then Ive ran nothing but ethanol free 91 in it. Not a daily driver anymore though.

Excellent point Ethanol will hurt you in the cold climates.


23280-75010 Fuel pressure regulator
90301-09002 Regulator o-ring
95334-06010 Fuel hose
96135-51100 Fuel hose clamps x2
90430-12026 crush gasket x4
90401-12097 banjo bolt x2
(I also replaced my fuel supply soft line that connects to the filter)

On the driver side frame rail near rear tire you will find the fuel pump disconnect, if you disconnect it and turn the engine over it will clear most of the fuel pressure from the system. I have to warn you, its quite a bugger getting into that tight area to re connect the fuel pump connector but it prevents gas leaking into your face. I would also disconnect your battery. Make sure you have plenty of extensions and wobbles with electrical tape and reach up from the bottom to gain access to the fuel filter bolts.

 

[jonheld]

On the driver side frame rail near rear tire you will find the fuel pump disconnect, if you disconnect it and turn the engine over it will clear most of the fuel pressure from the system. I have to warn you, its quite a bugger getting into that tight area to re connect the fuel pump connector but it prevents gas leaking into your face.

A less invasive way is to remove the circuit opening relay in the left kick panel, or unplug the fuel pump relay on the left fender. The connector you referenced (BO1) is prone to corrosion over time.

 

[flintknapper]

Lifetime parts guys can laugh at us, but preventative maint guys should nod in approval haha.

There are literally folks here that believe the fuel filter (and certain other parts) are 'lifetime'.

Here is the 'lifetime' fuel filter off my 80 series at about 160K:

 

[calokie]

Here was mine @ 354,000 (ish) Purchased truck @343,000. The Fuel filter is like your Liver, sure its a lifetime part but more trash that gets dumped into it, the closer to failure you get.

 

[calokie]

There are literally folks here that believe the fuel filter (and certain other parts) are 'lifetime'.

Here is the 'lifetime' fuel filter off my 80 series at about 160K:

View attachment 3535131
View attachment 3535132
View attachment 3535133

you should have ran that bro, its lifetime

 

[flintknapper]

you should have ran that bro, its lifetime

Yeah.

Same thing on my 100 series (lifetime filter). Just as dirty inside at similar mileage.

 

[BILT4ME]

The Fuel filter is like your Liver, sure its a lifetime part but more trash that gets dumped into it, the closer to failure you get.

Oh shyt. I'm in trouble......

 

[MrErer]

Another update:
Checked air intake, no visual leaks, no mice around, cleaned up the MAF, and ran thru securing all distributor wires from dist to plugs.... but still sputtering after that.
Ordered Fuel filter and pump, but it'll be a week until they come in and get on the truck. And the autoparts store was out of Heet, so that'll be here tomorrow since I just bought it online.

If my link below works, I got a video of this noise....call it what you want, pop/putter/sputter/knock something like that (can hear them at 5 seconds and 8/9 seconds in the video). But, its seemingly triggered when accelerating out of a stop, nothing going on while idling.
It is in the engine bay, I just cant tell where or what it is....sorry i need more help, but does anyone recognize a noise like this in that situation?

 

[flintknapper]

What is the 'timing' on your engine?

 

[BILT4ME]

That is affecting timing and ignition whatever it is.

What plug wires are on it? This could be bad plug wires cross-arcing to each other.
It could be fuel injectors sticking open due to a grounding issue.
I would look at the harness by the EGR.

Since you have the excessive flow in the EGR, it's HOT all the time. These are already known to smoke the wire harness, let alone when it's that hot all the time. Once melted, the harness can be giving all sorts of issues.

I'm betting harness.

Wiggle the harness while it's running to see if it makes it better or worse.

 

[MrErer]

What is the 'timing' on your engine?

That I’ll need to research, never been that deep in there ….not yet anyway

 

[MrErer]

That is affecting timing and ignition whatever it is.

What plug wires are on it? This could be bad plug wires cross-arcing to each other.
It could be fuel injectors sticking open due to a grounding issue.
I would look at the harness by the EGR.

Since you have the excessive flow in the EGR, it's HOT all the time. These are already known to smoke the wire harness, let alone when it's that hot all the time. Once melted, the harness can be giving all sorts of issues.

I'm betting harness.

Wiggle the harness while it's running to see if it makes it better or worse.

Point out the harness for me ? Somewhere behind 1,2,3 I’m guessing …