Cruiser Head

[CruiserTrash]

@ToyotaMatt Oh man, passive illuminated switches that also do active on would be the dream! Some background light so I can find the damn thing, then a light to tell me when it's on! Perfect! Thanks for the info...

But unfortunately, for the same price as 3 fancy non-US switches I can afford to get my 2F head completely rebuilt .... which is what I'll be doing instead because I need to.

@dbbowen THANK YOU for saving me the time. I was this close to getting my dremel and the smallest end mill bit I could find. I had a suspicion it would be a truly awful project just by looking at the little "bacon strips".

 

[dbbowen]

@ToyotaMatt Oh man, passive illuminated switches that also do active on would be the dream! Some background light so I can find the damn thing, then a light to tell me when it's on! Perfect! Thanks for the info...

But unfortunately, for the same price as 3 fancy non-US switches I can afford to get my 2F head completely rebuilt .... which is what I'll be doing instead because I need to.

@dbbowen THANK YOU for saving me the time. I was this close to getting my dremel and the smallest end mill bit I could find. I had a suspicion it would be a truly awful project just by looking at the little "bacon strips".

Ironically the bacon strips were going to be the easiest things to cut out. Honestly, you need a laser to cut that stuff out. If i could find someone to laser cut the letters out, putting EL Lighting behind it and wiring it up wouldnt be bad at all.


Im with you though, i really need some switches that light up with the headlights, and then light up when the switch is in use

 

[CruiserTrash]

Ironically the bacon strips were going to be the easiest things to cut out. Honestly, you need a laser to cut that stuff out. If i could find someone to laser cut the letters out, putting EL Lighting behind it and wiring it up wouldnt be bad at all.


Im with you though, i really need some switches that light up with the headlights, and then light up when the switch is in use

CHAAAAAASE!!! Get in here!

@ChaserFJ60 How about printing just the rocker part of the switch, but with the text/pictures cut out? Can you do it as fine as the rear washer emblem?

 

[dbbowen]

This rear wiper switch is fj62 sized, but has a bulb in it. Cant tell if its illuminated all the time or just when in use

Camry Wagon Rear Wiper Switch P/N 84653-32030

 

[ChaserFJ60]

CHAAAAAASE!!! Get in here!

@ChaserFJ60 How about printing just the rocker part of the switch, but with the text/pictures cut out? Can you do it as fine as the rear washer emblem?

I could. But the type of printer i would use to print that resolution doesn't have a suitable material for outdoor use. I could 3D print a mold though

 

[CruiserTrash]

I could. But the type of printer i would use to print that resolution doesn't have a suitable material for outdoor use. I could 3D print a mold though

Does it have to be outdoor-grade though? I'm talking the switch in the cabin - just the rocker itself. The switch housing comes apart easily enough and the rocker drops right out.

 

[CruiserTrash]

...and FYI the install & wiring would be easy. I could provide instructions or do it for people. But that's all dependent on switches with cutout emblems.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Does it have to be outdoor-grade though? I'm talking the switch in the cabin - just the rocker itself. The switch housing comes apart easily enough and the rocker drops right out.

It as to be UV rated, The resin I would use cures in sunlight. If its exposed to the sun it would crack just like the dash bezels. I really just got this new printer and am a complete newbie so I really dont know the full limitations of the printers capability's, Im going to assume it cant until I prove it can.

 

[CruiserTrash]

It as to be UV rated, The resin I would use cures in sunlight. If its exposed to the sun it would crack just like the dash bezels. I really just got this new printer and am a complete newbie so I really dont know the full limitations of the printers capability's, Im going to assume it cant until I prove it can.

That's fair man! I'm happy to beta test if you change your mind though!

 

[ChaserFJ60]

That's fair man! I'm happy to beta test if you change your mind though!

Ill be testing out the idea forsure, I just have to figure out how to make this new printer not kill me with its fumes

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thank You Chase .......

​

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

FROM SOR.COM :

LIVE From The SKUNK WORKS On-Site Laboratory UPDATE :

note : @ChaserFJ60 can Kustom
Hand Kraft any of his Switch Plates / Bezzles to mate with and communicate mechanicaly with any of my toyota genuine parts Kustom and SEMA-Spec LED updates switches …

Thanks for your support

​

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Alright, Finals are over! Shipping is resuming, Orders are being fufilled in the order they were placed.

 

[MoaByte]

Alright, Finals are over! Shipping is resuming, Orders are being fufilled in the order they were placed.

Get to work!! . Thanks for helping us out.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Thank You Chase .......

​

What is the music in the background? That s*** is heady.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

So I was able to use my schools lab to test some of my 3D printing settings, I'm not going to share the whole lab report as there's really no need. The jist of it is that my settings are already printing well within an acceptable range. I'm actually tweeking some profiles to make stronger prints based off of this report.
Here are some stress strain diagrams based off the material I used and layer height.

This lab report was done following the ASTM D638 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Plastics.

The entire goal of this lab was to test layer to layer strength.
I'm not going to include what layer heights I tested at because this is my data I use to sell my products.
I will say that in a lab environment the layer height I print my products at has a yield stress of ~1740 psi and a fracture stress of ~3945 psi when using the dog bone samples. These results are only valid for a straight tensile pull and represent layer to layer cohesion strength. They wont accuratly represent my prints as they have different geometrys and printing settings, however these results are a good baseline into understanding how the material will preform in the field.

I'm always trying to improve my products when and where I can!

 

[4Cruisers]

So I was able to use my schools lab to test some of my 3D printing settings, I'm not going to share the whole lab report as there's really no need. The jist of it is that my settings are already printing well within an acceptable range. I'm actually tweeking some profiles to make stronger prints based off of this report.
Here are some stress strain diagrams based off the material I used and layer height.

This lab report was done following the ASTM D638 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Plastics.
View attachment 2867893View attachment 2867898
The entire goal of this lab was to test layer to layer strength.
I'm not going to include what layer heights I tested at because this is my data I use to sell my products.
I will say that in a lab environment the layer height I print my products at has a yield stress of ~1740 psi and a fracture stress of ~3945 psi when using the dog bone samples. These results are only valid for a straight tensile pull and represent layer to layer cohesion strength. They wont accuratly represent my prints as they have different geometrys and printing settings, however these results are a good baseline into understanding how the material will preform in the field.

I'm always trying to improve my products when and where I can!

I always like seeing materials testing results, having done a bit of that in civil engineering department side jobs while in college.

The most interesting job was when I was working with my thesis advisor, who had a grant from the NHTSB to study padding materials for school bus seat backs. Part of the data set was determining the strength properties of human ribs, so we would take rib bones from human cadavers down to the test lab and perform and document flexural tests. I also helped with the set-up for the cadaver sled track tests at White Sands Missile Range. As a bonus, we could visit (through the windows at least) the NASA primates who had been to space and were now retired. Their new living quarters were adjacent to the sled track facility. And we even brought a school bus into the civil engineering department building and set it up on a frame that we would subject to various impact forces.

 

[MoaByte]

So I was able to use my schools lab to test some of my 3D printing settings, I'm not going to share the whole lab report as there's really no need. The jist of it is that my settings are already printing well within an acceptable range. I'm actually tweeking some profiles to make stronger prints based off of this report.
Here are some stress strain diagrams based off the material I used and layer height.

This lab report was done following the ASTM D638 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Plastics.
View attachment 2867893View attachment 2867898
The entire goal of this lab was to test layer to layer strength.
I'm not going to include what layer heights I tested at because this is my data I use to sell my products.
I will say that in a lab environment the layer height I print my products at has a yield stress of ~1740 psi and a fracture stress of ~3945 psi when using the dog bone samples. These results are only valid for a straight tensile pull and represent layer to layer cohesion strength. They wont accuratly represent my prints as they have different geometrys and printing settings, however these results are a good baseline into understanding how the material will preform in the field.

I'm always trying to improve my products when and where I can!

I wonder what that scale would look like hooked up to me. . High stress, little strain?

 

[ChaserFJ60]

I'm curious on what other items might be needed by the FJ60 community.

I was thinking about making optimized cross bars for FJ60's who use roof top tents. I think its a little silly that I have to use my 100lb roof rack to mount my 130lb roof top tent. The goal would be to make the cross bars as light as possible as well as low as possible. Most full roof racks have an unnecessary number of crossbars that are completely useless to holding up the weight of a roof top tent are are simply just added weight. The problem with Yakima crossbars and the like are that they mount too high up compared to full rack systems which are too heavy. Low and light would be the name of the game. Anyway I have more features I would include in the cross bar system. Its really something I want and am going to make for myself because I can but I'm curious if anyone else would like such a system in an already diluted market.
No unnecessary weight, low as possible, light as possible.