Cruiser Head

[4Cruisers]

Excellent! PM me so I can send you some money, for two of those, and my mailing address.

 

[4Cruisers]

Now expanded to include FJ40 solutions . I received this great product this afternoon, two each. Spacers to fit aftermarket (NGK) coils into Land Cruiser brackets. The NGK, and other aftermarket, coils require spacers to utilize the OEM coil brackets, so this is the perfect solution.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Now expanded to include FJ40 solutions . I received this great product this afternoon, two each. Spacers to fit aftermarket (NGK) coils into Land Cruiser brackets. The NGK, and other aftermarket, coils require spacers to utilize the OEM coil brackets, so this is the perfect solution.

View attachment 2835855

View attachment 2835856

Tell me about the NGK coils... versus OEM or other aftermarket.

 

[4Cruisers]

Tell me about the NGK coils... versus OEM or other aftermarket.

I tried to buy the OEM coil, Part Number 90919-02117, to go with the '82 Tercel igniters I bought for my '71 and '76 FJ40s. Both have '76 2Fs with FJ60 distributors. But everywhere I checked showed them as NLA. So I ordered two NGK coils from RockAuto. I'll be installing one in my '76 FJ40 this afternoon. It currently has the OEM Tercel coil and igniter.

 

[4Cruisers]

Another related custom part request - a ring cap that fits over the end of the NGK coil to increase it's OD that will allow it to accept the OEM black plastic snap-on coil cover (see photo). Total of two, one for each FJ40.

The three diameters are as follows:

- OD: 67mm

- ID at inside of lip: 64.5mm

- ID of center hole: 54mm

Other dimensions:

- Thickness of cap at center hole: 2mm

- Height of lip (beyond inside surface of cap): 6mm

- Total height: 8mm

 

[CruiserTrash]

I tried to buy the OEM coil, Part Number 90919-02117, to go with the '82 Tercel igniters I bought for my '71 and '76 FJ40s. Both have '76 2Fs with FJ60 distributors. But everywhere I checked showed them as NLA. So I ordered two NGK coils from RockAuto. I'll be installing one in my '76 FJ40 this afternoon. It currently has the OEM Tercel coil and igniter.

PO has some kind of aftermarket coil in my 83 60 and ai've been meaning to go OEM. If I find one used I'll take it to the old school shop that rebuilt my alternator so it can get cleaned up. But a new option would be nice. I'm not necessary trying to solve a problem - just trying to prevent one in the future.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Are you still making the side marker gaskets for a fj60? Thanks

Sorry for the late reply, No im not making those. The side markers are still readily available from Toyota and other vendors. I released a file if you want to try yourself though, FJ60 Side Marker by ChaserFJ60 - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4679508

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Another related custom part request - a ring cap that fits over the end of the NGK coil to increase it's OD that will allow it to accept the OEM black plastic snap-on coil cover (see photo). Total of two, one for each FJ40.

The three diameters are as follows:

- OD: 67mm

- ID at inside of lip: 64.5mm

- ID of center hole: 54mm

Other dimensions:

- Thickness of cap at center hole: 2mm

- Height of lip (beyond inside surface of cap): 6mm

- Total height: 8mm



View attachment 2836778

That would be a little tricky, I would have to make either a press fit spacer to allow the OEM cover to clamp on, or make a C ring (Like the one I made before for the mounting spacer) and have the OEM cover clamp onto the 3D printed piece. Seeing as the OEM cover is a compression fit, I feel like if I were to make a compression fit spacer to put the compression fit OEM cover on, that it would be a loose and unreliable connection. There would be too many unfastened pieces stacked onto each-other.

 

[4Cruisers]

That would be a little tricky, I would have to make either a press fit spacer to allow the OEM cover to clamp on, or make a C ring (Like the one I made before for the mounting spacer) and have the OEM cover clamp onto the 3D printed piece. Seeing as the OEM cover is a compression fit, I feel like if I were to make a compression fit spacer to put the compression fit OEM cover on, that it would be a loose and unreliable connection. There would be too many unfastened pieces stacked onto each-other.

Thanks for looking into this for me, I'll try to come up with another solution.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Some new things that have come about, Ive updated one of the bezel files to be more realistic, Ive printed one and really like how it came out. The new "Ash Tray Carling" is as follows

Some extra fun stuff, at school I had the opportunity to take my printing methods and test their strength in a lab with professional equipment. Following "ASTM D638-14 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Plastics." Ill make a post about my results and what it means for my products soon!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Excellent TECH Update chase ....

@dannyvp was nothing less then completely happy with his new 4 AUX switch panel u crafted and i installed the 4 matching and mating AMBER GLOBE 2nd GEN Size

Spec tall and skinny OEM layout , we / you and i worked together and came to the correct conclusion to MATCH the fj62 spacing layout and parameters .....


i am trying to convince him to COLOR key it to his switch panel too via the modern aerosols for interior plastics and Vinyl too

now that would be BAD TO THE BONE !


thanks
matt

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Excellent TECH Update chase ....

@dannyvp was nothing less then completely happy with his new 4 AUX switch panel u crafted and i installed the 4 matching and mating AMBER GLOBE 2nd GEN Size

Spec tall and skinny OEM layout , we / you and i worked together and came to the correct conclusion to MATCH the fj62 spacing layout and parameters .....


i am trying to convince him to COLOR key it to his switch panel too via the modern aerosols for interior plastics and Vinyl too

now that would be BAD TO THE BONE !


thanks
matt

One of the absolute best decisions Ive ever made was collaborating with you @ToyotaMatt , gotta keep them 60's looking good and OEM, even when they're modified!

 

[ChaserFJ60]

Thanks to a fellow mud member whose username I cant remember at this time. I mentioned these briefly earlier but I now make the Radio cover palates with 3mm thick mild steel, these are sturdy enough to mount some communication devices to. Or these can be used to cut your own template into. Anyway they turned out great!

This item is unavailable - Etsy

Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewelry, and more… lots more.

www.etsy.com

 

[dbbowen]

Some new things that have come about, Ive updated one of the bezel files to be more realistic, Ive printed one and really like how it came out. The new "Ash Tray Carling" is as follows

View attachment 2844323

Some extra fun stuff, at school I had the opportunity to take my printing methods and test their strength in a lab with professional equipment. Following "ASTM D638-14 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Plastics." Ill make a post about my results and what it means for my products soon!

Hey this is my Bezel! Ill post it up when i get it sanded and filled and smoothed. Trying to find the right Light grey paint right now for the light grey in a 87 fj60 if anyone has any suggestions. Going to try and vapor smoothen it, then sand it, then hit it with filler primer, then sand again. Hopefully ill be able to get a completely uniform smooth finish.

 

[dbbowen]

Got started on the bezel a few days ago, this is my third time working with 3dprinted parts and this bezel was one of the easiest so far because all of the flat areas. I will say I do like working with the ASA material quite a bit.

Here is the raw print with some 80 grit sanding done. Used an orbital for the initial 80 grit to knock the large layer lines down and did the rest by hand. Try and stay away from rotary tools withthese, i nicked one of the inside of the carling squares with mine, but you wont be able to see it when the switch is installed.

80 - 120- 220 - 320 grits dry sanding by hand

Went real heavy on the fillable sandable primer. Didnt worry about runs because I was sanding between coats. Did one very heavy coat, sanded, then light coat, then sanded, then light coat, sanded, until the lines were no longer visible under the primer. Used 220 dry sanding between coats, then 320 before the last dusting coat.

Once the coats were done, i wet sanded with 600, 1,500, and 2,000 grit to get a smooth plastic feel. At this stage, it feels just like the original plastic piece that came off of the truck, just less cracked up.

Going to do a full coat of SEM Colorcoat 15163 Presedio. It kinda looked similar to the oem paint on the color cards, my luck its going to be too dark. After the whole thing is painted, ill tape off the upper portion and hit it with black.

 

[MoaByte]

Got started on the bezel a few days ago, this is my third time working with 3dprinted parts and this bezel was one of the easiest so far because all of the flat areas. I will say I do like working with the ASA material quite a bit.

Here is the raw print with some 80 grit sanding done. Used an orbital for the initial 80 grit to knock the large layer lines down and did the rest by hand. Try and stay away from rotary tools withthese, i nicked one of the inside of the carling squares with mine, but you wont be able to see it when the switch is installed.

80 - 120- 220 - 320 grits dry sanding by hand

Went real heavy on the fillable sandable primer. Didnt worry about runs because I was sanding between coats. Did one very heavy coat, sanded, then light coat, then sanded, then light coat, sanded, until the lines were no longer visible under the primer. Used 220 dry sanding between coats, then 320 before the last dusting coat.

Once the coats were done, i wet sanded with 600, 1,500, and 2,000 grit to get a smooth plastic feel. At this stage, it feels just like the original plastic piece that came off of the truck, just less cracked up.

Going to do a full coat of SEM Colorcoat 15163 Presedio. It kinda looked similar to the oem paint on the color cards, my luck its going to be too dark. After the whole thing is painted, ill tape off the upper portion and hit it with black.

Good work @dbbowen!

 

[ChaserFJ60]

I guess im gonna do one of those fancy cyber sales. 15% off when you spend more than $5 until December 1st. Funny thing is I sell nothing below $5 so everything is 15% off haha

FJ60Solutions - Etsy

Shop FJ60 Solutions by FJ60Solutions located in Texas, United States.

www.etsy.com

Got started on the bezel a few days ago, this is my third time working with 3dprinted parts and this bezel was one of the easiest so far because all of the flat areas. I will say I do like working with the ASA material quite a bit.

Here is the raw print with some 80 grit sanding done. Used an orbital for the initial 80 grit to knock the large layer lines down and did the rest by hand. Try and stay away from rotary tools withthese, i nicked one of the inside of the carling squares with mine, but you wont be able to see it when the switch is installed.

80 - 120- 220 - 320 grits dry sanding by hand

Went real heavy on the fillable sandable primer. Didnt worry about runs because I was sanding between coats. Did one very heavy coat, sanded, then light coat, then sanded, then light coat, sanded, until the lines were no longer visible under the primer. Used 220 dry sanding between coats, then 320 before the last dusting coat.

Once the coats were done, i wet sanded with 600, 1,500, and 2,000 grit to get a smooth plastic feel. At this stage, it feels just like the original plastic piece that came off of the truck, just less cracked up.

Going to do a full coat of SEM Colorcoat 15163 Presedio. It kinda looked similar to the oem paint on the color cards, my luck its going to be too dark. After the whole thing is painted, ill tape off the upper portion and hit it with black.

Looks great! I havent made a new write up on my lab results on the material I use yet. But some of the new changes are an improved quality and strength in printed bezels. You actually have the first updated version based off of my lab results.

 

[dbbowen]

Good work @dbbowen!

Thanks man! Painting it today and tomorrow. Masking it is going to be interesting

I guess im gonna do one of those fancy cyber sales. 15% off when you spend more than $5 until December 1st. Funny thing is I sell nothing below $5 so everything is 15% off haha

FJ60Solutions - Etsy

Shop FJ60 Solutions by FJ60Solutions located in Texas, United States.

www.etsy.com

Looks great! I havent made a new write up on my lab results on the material I use yet. But some of the new changes are an improved quality and strength in printed bezels. You actually have the first updated version based off of my lab results.

Happy to be the Guinea pig!

 

[dbbowen]

Heres the finished product. I kinda messed up and rushed this a bit since its been such a busy week, but if you take your time a bit more than I did on the paint, you can get a better looking finished result. Couple of things i would do differently.

-I knew rustoleum filler primer sucks... but i was just wanting to get it done. Use SEM filler primer its a little pricier but sooooo much better.
-Give the Grey coat 2 days or more before you tape it off. I gave it 12 hours and had lines in my paint from my tape.
-Use hobby painter tape instead of home stuff for taping around the openings.
- You dont need to paint the cig lighter hole black, theres a chrome ring that goes in there. I didnt realize that until i already painted it.

Some texture lines here and there, at this point i was just trying to get it finished.


The Grey is SEM 15163 Presidio. Matches up pretty well to the stock dash. Ill post a pic when its installed

Taped off for black

Finished product, pulled the tape off a little early but once the switches and everything are installed it should look fine.

Not a bad process to do all of this, just need time to do it perfect if you are wanting it to be perfect. Definitely not a job to do over thanksgiving hah

 

[MoaByte]

Heres the finished product. I kinda messed up and rushed this a bit since its been such a busy week, but if you take your time a bit more than I did on the paint, you can get a better looking finished result. Couple of things i would do differently.

-I knew rustoleum filler primer sucks... but i was just wanting to get it done. Use SEM filler primer its a little pricier but sooooo much better.
-Give the Grey coat 2 days or more before you tape it off. I gave it 12 hours and had lines in my paint from my tape.
-Use hobby painter tape instead of home stuff for taping around the openings.
- You dont need to paint the cig lighter hole black, theres a chrome ring that goes in there. I didnt realize that until i already painted it.

Some texture lines here and there, at this point i was just trying to get it finished.


The Grey is SEM 15163 Presidio. Matches up pretty well to the stock dash. Ill post a pic when its installed

Taped off for black

Finished product, pulled the tape off a little early but once the switches and everything are installed it should look fine.

Not a bad process to do all of this, just need time to do it perfect if you are wanting it to be perfect. Definitely not a job to do over thanksgiving hah

I completely agree with you about the Sem products and thanks for the color code. If you don't know, the Sem "Graphite" matches the console and other bits.