alia176
SILVER Star
Finally, some more comic relief was in order on Hell's Revenge. This gent flopped his ride twice, once per side before he came out of the tub.
Cruise Moab - May 1st - 6th 2018
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Did you have extra bearings or was it more complicated than just having the spare on hand?
How in the......????
That's no fun roadside. I learned that lesson with our 5th wheel and now carry a clean, greased spare. Apparently, one can never haul around enough extra crap!
That is very true! Whatever you don't have is what you will need.
barrys
SILVER Star
Looks like CM was another good one this year. Keep the pictures and stories coming. It makes great reading here in Bhutan - and makes me a little homesick!
alia176
SILVER Star
I spoke to Matt and the sick trailer is back home safe and sound. Nobody messed with it overnight, whew!
alia176
SILVER Star
Marc - this is a project that involves swapping out a CV axle and you need to do one in order to appreciate some of the subtleties. Having an extra front CV axle is really all you need in this instance. Bearing swap in the field is rarely necessary as that has nothing to do with the CV axle for vehicle propulsion. HOWEVER, the unit bearing + the front hub are kept in compression with the outer axle nut with 200+ ft-lb and THAT is critical to maintain at all times. Some have warped their front hub due to improper torque of the axle nut. If you don't put the axle nut back on, there's a *risk* of the front hub separating itself from the unit bearing. In another words, your front wheel simply leaves you! The hub and unit bearing are usually pressed together in a press so there is a fair amount of friction force clamping the two items together. I'd imagine for a short drive to safety/camp ground, one can do w/o the axle nut but not for hwy driving on a heavy rig like ours.
Another lesson is how much fun one can have removing the CV axle from the diff. In the diff, the "cup" is the part of the CV axle that goes inside and gets driven by the front diff. However, sometimes removing this "cup" is a royal PITA when you don't have the proper tools. I've had to use a slide hammer deal and a large amount of force in the removal of the cup from the front diff. It's simply held on with a $2 snap ring and often times using two flat head screwdrivers is all it takes for separation. All of this doable if you're on your driveway.
If all else fails, one can leave the used cup stuck inside the front diff and insert a "fresh" new CV axle into the used cup and hose clamp the CV boot shut. I've done this on my 4runner and it's no big deal if you have no other choice. The CV axle simply pulls out of the cup once you open up the CV boot large clamp.
The cup circled in red that goes into the front diff.
Hope all this made sense and sorry for the slight hijack.
Ash, I think Marc was talking about the trailer.
alia176
SILVER Star
Why? It was still educational.D'oh, never mind and ignore all that
Yep.
- Thread starter
- #74
Actually walt told me it was an autozone axle. I think he reused the original cv joints/cages. I wish I knew walt was using non Toyota parts in these areas. I'm surprised he decided this and look to understand better his rationale.
What part of the axle failed?
- Thread starter
- #76
It broke right after the axle exits from the inner cage. The pixs show us trying to get the axle out of the outer joint. It was a clean break - not sure if that provides any insight.
Does anybody know if non-genuine axles are less reliable or prone to this type of failure? I am concerned that the passenger side is vulnerable at this point.
I'm curious why they were changed out in the first place.
It sure seems that a Toyota axle would be more robust than an Autozone axle, but that is mostly speculation on my part. The only obvious advantage for an Autozone axle is that it would likely be cheaper. But with the wheeling that we do, we're usually looking for stronger rather than cheaper.
Larry - I would be concerned as well about the other side.
Larry - I would be concerned as well about the other side.
Replace the other axle with a Toyota OEM one, then keep the autozone one as a spare.
- Thread starter
- #80
Walt installed Tundra upper and lower control arms and tundra axles, which are 2" longer than the Land Cruiser's original axles. The extra 2" pushed out the wheels at the same ratio as the 2" lift - maintaining optimal ratios (I think I got that right).
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