CruisD64's FJ62 Thread

[Godfather90]

I would not worry about 207. As for the location of your sender, it must be located in the loop of the engine that circulates when the thermostat is closed.

I'm not familiar with the engine you have but typically coolant circulates through the head and heater core and sometimes a portion of the block before the thermostat opens. Once open obviously it flows to the radiator and back usually to the block.

You need your sender to be part of that loop otherwise it's just reading the water headed to the radiator once the thermostat opens.


Hope that helps,

Mike

 

[CruisD64]

I would not worry about 207. As for the location of your sender, it must be located in the loop of the engine that circulates when the thermostat is closed.

I'm not familiar with the engine you have but typically coolant circulates through the head and heater core and sometimes a portion of the block before the thermostat opens. Once open obviously it flows to the radiator and back usually to the block.

You need your sender to be part of that loop otherwise it's just reading the water headed to the radiator once the thermostat opens.


Hope that helps,

Mike

Hmm. Is the location of the sending unit I put in a bad one? It's inline with the coolant that flows through the top of the radiator so I guess it's hottest temp coolant in the entire system? Like you said, 207 doesn't seem so crazy to me but the needle has been much higher than that before I added this gauge.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Godfather90]

Hmm. Is the location of the sending unit I put in a bad one? It's inline with the coolant that flows through the top of the radiator so I guess it's hottest temp coolant in the entire system? Like you said, 207 doesn't seem so crazy to me but the needle has been much higher than that before I added this gauge.

Thanks for the reply!

Yes you need to be on the other side of the thermostat. What you are measuring is only the coolant outlet temp. It's not going to read much of anything until the thermostat opens.

Mike

 

[CruisD64]

Yes you need to be on the other side of the thermostat. What you are measuring is only the coolant outlet temp. It's not going to read much of anything until the thermostat opens.

Mike

Gotcha. That makes perfect sense. I'll relocate it to the bottom radiator hose. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Skniper]

@CruisD64 I think the location of the aftermarket temp sensor is debatable. On the upper hose you are reading the heated water coming out of the motor after the t-stat opens....so is it "real time"?...eh, not exactly but it's consistent with what's going on inside the motor immediately as long as the t-stat is working correctly.
I would think the lower radiator hose is a bad place to locate a temp sensor. You are reading water temps AFTER they have been cooled by the radiator and before it gets to the motor, not really an indication of what's going on IN the motor. You will see consistently lower unrealistic temps here. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. (?)

Agree the best location for a sensor is inside the loop before the t-stat. But the 3FE doesn't have a great spot to locate a temp sensor on the t-stat housing or on the head somewhere...at least none that I've ever seen consistently documented here on Mud. That's why people go with the upper rad hose location.

The accuracy of the stock gauge in the dash has long been in question, but they tend to be consistent with what's going on under the hood. Mine fluctuates a good bit (and pretty darn accurately) according to conditions, I can see when the t-stat is holding, then when it opens, I can see fluctuations in the needle when I'm running the heaters, when it's cold outside, or hot, load on the motor, etc.... So aside from the gauge spike anomalies, the stock gauge can be a good indicator. The aftermarket gauge is an important check n balance against the stock gauge.

Your stock gauge readings at 1/2 to 3/4 sound normal, just watch for consistencies.

 

[Godfather90]

You don't want to put it in the lower hose.

I'm sure there is another location that will work. Is there an oil cooler that uses engine coolant? That would normally be on the back side of the thermostat.

Poke around there has to be a spot.

Mike

 

[CruisD64]

You don't want to put it in the lower hose.

I'm sure there is another location that will work. Is there an oil cooler that uses engine coolant? That would normally be on the back side of the thermostat.

Poke around there has to be a spot.

Mike

Alright. After hearing all of your responses so far I'm pretty confident my temps are ok. I don't know if it's because the weather is much colder now though and probably won't know for sure until it warms up again. In SF that could be a while.

 

[CruisD64]

 

[CruisD64]

You don't want to put it in the lower hose.

I'm sure there is another location that will work. Is there an oil cooler that uses engine coolant? That would normally be on the back side of the thermostat.

Poke around there has to be a spot.

Mike

I found the source of my engine overheating. It's actually the transmission. I think it might be going... I pulled over after driving it a while and after the light when on and it was 274 degrees. Way too hot. And since the tranny cooler shares the the same radiator as the engine it's heating the coolant back up before it goes into the block. Apparently its a "thing" with the stock torque converter. I've since purchased a separate tranny cooler, filter, and will be replacing the fluid with Dex VI. Fingers crossed that gets me a few more years out of it. I've never had issues shifting so I MIGHT be able to save it as long as the temps remain at bay. Otherwise I have another plan since I can't afford an H55F swap at the moment.

 

[Kleatus]

I found the source of my engine overheating. It's actually the transmission. I think it might be going... I pulled over after driving it a while and after the light when on and it was 274 degrees. Way too hot. And since the tranny cooler shares the the same radiator as the engine it's heating the coolant back up before it goes into the block. Apparently its a "thing" with the stock torque converter. I've since purchased a separate tranny cooler, filter, and will be replacing the fluid with Dex VI. Fingers crossed that gets me a few more years out of it. I've never had issues shifting so I MIGHT be able to save it as long as the temps remain at bay. Otherwise I have another plan since I can't afford an H55F swap at the moment.

Nice truck and documentation. I put a big Derale Atomic cooler with its own fan on mine. It's 100% necessary. I can push trans temps to 240 even with the cooler (extended wheeling in mountains). Stock gears are hurting the situation too. More effort is now required to get and keep the truck moving with bigger tires and more weight, and more effort = more heat. The torque converter won't lock up as soon or as often under these conditions, and anytime the A440 is unlocked it is making heat, lots of heat. I have a thermocouple on the outgoing line from the trans and also on the pan. I can watch the line out temps rapidly climb with throttle input when the converter is unlocked.

4.88's put the gearing back extremely close to stock and allieviate much, but not all of that.

 

[CruisD64]

Nice truck and documentation. I put a big Derale Atomic cooler with its own fan on mine. It's 100% necessary. I can push trans temps to 240 even with the cooler (extended wheeling in mountains). Stock gears are hurting the situation too. More effort is now required to get and keep the truck moving with bigger tires and more weight, and more effort = more heat. The torque converter won't lock up as soon or as often under these conditions, and anytime the A440 is unlocked it is making heat, lots of heat. I have a thermocouple on the outgoing line from the trans and also on the pan. I can watch the line out temps rapidly climb with throttle input when the converter is unlocked.

4.88's put the gearing back extremely close to stock and allieviate much, but not all of that.

Thanks for the response! I actually have a Derale cooler going on tomorrow. 19 row stacked plate. I won't be "done" with the project tomorrow since some parts are still in the mail but I'll be putting in a Trans Temp gauge as well. I plan on running the temp sender on the line going to the cooler. I figure that will be the hottest oil. I've heard welding a bung (hole ) into the pan is a good option and i'll do that later on if it makes more sense. I'm really just trying to get an idea of how things run after this. 4.88's would be nice but this thing will be on the road a lot. My plan is to take it on a 6 month long national park trip so road friendliness is important.

 

[Kleatus]

Thanks for the response! I actually have a Derale cooler going on tomorrow. 19 row stacked plate. I won't be "done" with the project tomorrow since some parts are still in the mail but I'll be putting in a Trans Temp gauge as well. I plan on running the temp sender on the line going to the cooler. I figure that will be the hottest oil. I've heard welding a bung (hole ) into the pan is a good option and i'll do that later on if it makes more sense. I'm really just trying to get an idea of how things run after this. 4.88's would be nice but this thing will be on the road a lot. My plan is to take it on a 6 month long national park trip so road friendliness is important.

Road friendliness is no problem with the 4.88s. 3,000 rpm gets you 80 mph and about 2,600 is a very happy 70 with 33x10.50 BFG's (which actually measure out to about 31.5" tall). There have been zero times I wished for stock gears again after going to 4.88.

Keep in mind the line out is the max temp coming out of the converter, the guts of the trans are seeing the temp of the fluid sucked out of the pan. There can be a large difference between them, especially with a good cooler. I used thermal epoxy to glue thermocouples to the pan and line, and have a simple battery powered digital reader I plug in. Non intrusive, accurate and cheap. After getting some baselines, I don't use it very often, just times when I know I am stressing things.

 

[CruisD64]

Hmm. That's good to know. I'll probably do that when I'm ready to put lockers in.

I spoke with Georg and Ron from CCFJ40 in Gilroy today and came to the conclusion that welding a bung into the pan is the way to go for the temp sensor so I've ordered one that should arrive Tuesday. My plan is to do everything BUT that before then so that it'll be quick once I get it. Probably Sunday I'll take everything apart. Georg also recommended putting in LubeGard additive after I add the trans fluid so I picked one of those up today.

The backup plan is this. Ron has a low mileage A440F that he's hanging onto for me. If it comes down to it I will pick that one up and have it inspected. If it checks out I'll be buying a new upgraded valve body (Rodney's) and rebuilding the torque converter before putting it back in the truck. I really want an h55f eventually but for the price of everything I could get a really nice working setup for ~1800 total. I'll be doing the work myself. Also, I'm planning a trip that will take me ~6 months hitting most of the parks in the country. Automatic sounds nicer for that all around.

 

[Richfj60]

Hi, you have me very intrigued about your roof rack. I watched the video, downloaded the plans, but was interested in what dimensions you used for your rack? What did you use for the gutter mounts? I might have to go this route!

 

[CruisD64]

Hi, you have me very intrigued about your roof rack. I watched the video, downloaded the plans, but was interested in what dimensions you used for your rack? What did you use for the gutter mounts? I might have to go this route!

Hey man! Sorry for the late reply. I'll try to provide as much detail as possible. All of these dollar values are pretax and shipment.

As far as the roof rack mounts I went with Dirt Dog Offroads heep mounts. $80 UNIVERSAL GUTTER ROOF RACK MOUNT WELD ON XJ ROOFRACK GUTTER MOUNT FLAT FULLWIDTH SET OF 8 | Dirt Dogs Offroad

For the crossmember I went with the Tnutz ones outlined in the video. I went with 10 but you can use however many you need. I personally believe distribution of weight is of utmost importance on a gutter style roof since those are very prone to rust. I went with 54 1/4 inch wide as that allowed the roof rack mounts to stand straight and distribute weight only in the down direction and not laterally. I also had the holes pretapped. It cost me $241 EX-1020-BLACK – 1″ x 2″ BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion | TNUTZ | TNUTZ

For the sides I used 3/16 x 3in x 8ft (Width,H,L) long flat stock. It cost me $80 at Reno Salvage in Reno, Nevada.

For the wind deflector I went with 3/16 x 6in x 5ft (Width,H,L) flat stock. I dont remember exactly how much it was but was around $80.

As for the bolts I went with T30 Black Zinc Plated steel bolts. I ordered two sets which was like $30. bolts

Washers...
Washer ~$8
Lock Washers ~$4 x 3

The nuts I already had which I purchased from Harrison & Bonini in San Francisco. Lets say $20 MAX.

The powdercoating was done by a local shop in SF. It cost me $170

Total cost estimate: ~$713. This will vary depending on where you source your aluminum but I find it to be FAR more customizable and cost effective than other comparable (functionally) alternatives.

As far as dimensions and cuts I really just played it by ear. I tried to follow the body lines of the truck. I cut and drilled both side pieces clamped together. As for the front wind deflector I had to wing that as well. I mocked one up out of cardboard first and then traced it on the aluminum piece cut with a cutting wheel. For the long cut, DON'T cut deep right away. I basically made a track which I followed back and forth until the piece was cut. Then I very carefully worked on any imperfections with a sanding wheel. It didn't turn out "perfect" but it's close enough and you'd never know unless you were looking for it. I don't remember the angle I based the wind deflector on but it was around 40 degrees IIRC.

Let me know if you have any more questions!

 

[CruisD64]

Hey all! Installed the tranny cooler as well as the gauge. Welded in the bung, put in Dex VI, Lubegaurd, new gaskets blah blah. The welds aren't pretty but I dont have too much experience with welding dissimilar thickness steel together. I used a step bit to get the size right. No leaks (after the second try) and is working great. After driving for several hours the hottes the transmission got was 199 which is WAYYYY better than the 274 I saw before. Time will tell. Overall it shifts a million times better. You hardly notice them.

s*** picture but those are the gauges together.

 

[CruisD64]

Bro got a new car! 2016 LC. This thing is awesome!!!!!

 

[CruisD64]

The happy couple! I have THE BEST sister in law in the world. This is honestly her car. My brother is thrilled. She's scared because the car is really expensive but says it drives like a cloud. She was worried because she drove every car she owned to the ground. I dare her. Can't do that with a Landcruiser!!!

 

[CruisD64]

Bros first love. I spent 2 years restoring this beast. Painted it in my garage. Couldn't be happier with the results.

 

[hygge]

Been enjoying watching your progress on the build. And that's awesome that your brother and his wife got a 2016 from the San Rafael Toyota.

I had mounted my temperature sensor in the upper radiator hose with probably the same setup as you.

Nice looking roof rack BTW!!