Crank but no start

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Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Threads
3
Messages
10
Location
Colorado
91 land cruiser 237k
About 2 weeks ago I was driving along and it just s*** off. Power was still there or just stopped running abruptly. I replaced the ignition coil, dristributor cap and rotor and still nothing. It has no spark going to the plugs. Fuses look good. At a loss, anyone experience this and know how to fix? I tried to upload a video but it won't let me.
 
91 land cruiser 237k
About 2 weeks ago I was driving along and it just s*** off. Power was still there or just stopped running abruptly. I replaced the ignition coil, dristributor cap and rotor and still nothing. It has no spark going to the plugs. Fuses look good. At a loss, anyone experience this and know how to fix? I tried to upload a video but it won't let me.
Is the Check Engine Light on when the key is in the "RUN" position?

Read all posts from @jonheld . At the bottom of his sig line is a link to a diagnostic and troubleshooting list for the 3-FE.

Someone else just experienced the same symptoms. Read through the first three pages of threads to find it.
 
Is the Check Engine Light on when the key is in the "RUN" position?

Read all posts from @jonheld . At the bottom of his sig line is a link to a diagnostic and troubleshooting list for the 3-FE.

Someone else just experienced the same symptoms. Read through the first three pages of threads to find it.
Is the Check Engine Light on when the key is in the "RUN" position?

Read all posts from @jonheld . At the bottom of his sig line is a link to a diagnostic and troubleshooting list for the 3-FE.

Someone else just experienced the same symptoms. Read through the first three pages of threads to find it.
Check engine light it not on, thanks I'll look for it
 
Check engine light it not on, thanks I'll look for it
If no che k engine light, your ECU is not in a ready state.

Start first and check you fusible links.

Look down a few threads for "Hacked fusible links" and read that.
 
Thanks for this, it did help a lot. Still having issues though. Everything checked out until Step 4. Tested B+ and was only getting .53. So I'm guessing it's the EFI. Could replacing the relay do it, I checked that and was 11v. Idk if that's enough to activate it.

I had this issue on my 1991. turned out it was one of a combination of things. 1. I replaced the fusible link off the battery. I would recommend doing this because the parts are cheep and Id be willing to bet it has not been changed recently. Fusible links should be a part of a tune up. 2. (most probable cause for my issue) when I was replacing my water pump I took the battery out. when I put the battery back in the negative battery terminal fell off (It was just electric taped on.) I replaced the negative terminal. 3. I also replaced the efi fuse. My suggestion would be to replace the relay and the fuse. Check the simple things first.
 
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If your not getting +12 to the B+ terminal in the diag connector, then the EFI relay is not closing or there is a faulty connection in EB1.
At this point, the CEL will be off with the key in the ON position. No start.
You can try jumping pins 2-4 on the relay connector. If the cel comes on, then there's an issue with the relay itself, or the socket, or possibly the logic path.
 
Went ahead and picked up a new EFI Main,since the other one did look a little rough. Didn't fix it. No CEL. Evem jumped the test ports still nothing. I can't get a new disable link for a while, but it is sending 12VDC through it.I feel like I'm missing something that I haven't done. A lot of responses about EFI stuff, am I missing something key?
 
Well I decided to just start unplugging and plugging stuff back in. I noticed that the wires going into the grey plug were barely attached if at all. Then I traced that back and noticed that whoever replaced the alternator pinched a cluster of wires behind what I think is the AC compressor, can't remember just took it off and freed the wires. I noticed that they had been cut through. I don't know what these wires do but it plugs into stuff under the fuse box. This might be my problem who knows.
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Does she run now?
 
Well I decided to just start unplugging and plugging stuff back in. I noticed that the wires going into the grey plug were barely attached if at all. Then I traced that back and noticed that whoever replaced the alternator pinched a cluster of wires behind what I think is the AC compressor, can't remember just took it off and freed the wires. I noticed that they had been cut through. I don't know what these wires do but it plugs into stuff under the fuse box. This might be my problem who knows.View attachment 2310015View attachment 2310017
Repair the wiring and check your fuses.
 
Well I decided to just start unplugging and plugging stuff back in. I noticed that the wires going into the grey plug were barely attached if at all. Then I traced that back and noticed that whoever replaced the alternator pinched a cluster of wires behind what I think is the AC compressor, can't remember just took it off and freed the wires. I noticed that they had been cut through. I don't know what these wires do but it plugs into stuff under the fuse box. This might be my problem who knows.View attachment 2310015View attachment 2310017
The grey plug is the VSV for the air injection system.
Your AC compressor is on the passenger side.
The smog pump is in the driver's side.

As was mentioned, repair the wires and check the fuses.
Yellow wires with red stripes are the load side of the EFI relay. You're going to need these.
Red wire with yellow stripe is the EFI fuse. You're going to need that too.
Very high probability that the 15 amp EFI fuse is blown. Repair the wires FIRST.
 
Welp i got it fixed! Runs like a champ now. It was those wires and the fuze I feel like an idiot. the wires were also melted so i spliced a new section of wire into the harness and she almost fired right up. To celebrate I took her on a 100 MI trip around Cheyenne mountain. Thank you all for the help and sorry for the late reply.
 

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