Crank but No Start (Solved)

[2001LC]

You have the wrong fuel pump. The taller pump is for 98-05.
In 2006 Toyota changed pumps in the 100 series with the VVT engine ship to the USA. Note you must insert the new O-ring.

OLD OEM factory pump

 

[Phallen]

Thank you, 2001LC. I’m glad you have an eye for this. I was a bit frustrated yesterday trying to get it to fit and search the internet for a matching plug for the pump. I wouldn’t have expected NAPA to send the wrong pump.

Is the black shroud around the fuel pump in the photo stock? Or is that a completely different pump?

 

[2001LC]

If you buy and use the 950-0210 fuel pump I posted a picture of. Than you'll reuse the cage (black shroud) and sock from your old fuel pump assembly. You'll only use the new fuel pump and O-ring, throw out the new sock.

 

[Phallen]

The fuel pump came in yesterday. When I initially bought it off amazon, it said it wasnt for my 06 LC, so I was a bit worried. Once I pulled everything apart, it was An exact fit.

2001LC, thank you for all your input and
providing me w the correct part number for the fuel pump.

I’ll let you guys know in a week if this remedies the problem. So far so good though.

Now I have to work on the no heat / only cold air problem

 

[Phallen]

Well... replacing the fuel pump did not fix the issue. I’m still having a problem With the engine turning over. It’s also very sporadic; I’d say 1 out of every 10 times the LC won’t turn over.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Phallen]

As of this writing, the LC is still having trouble turning over and it’s becoming more frequent.

So I’ve found when the LC Starts but wont turn over , I lock it up and activate the alarm. After about ten minutes, Ill attempt to start it and 9/10 times it’ll turn over.

Anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this? I’m open to all possibilities

 

[2001LC]

As of this writing, the LC is still having trouble turning over and it’s becoming more frequent.

So I’ve found when the LC Starts but wont turn over , I lock it up and activate the alarm. After about ten minutes, Ill attempt to start it and 9/10 times it’ll turn over.

Anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this? I’m open to all possibilities

First your statement is confusing "LC Starts but wont turn over" If it does not "turn over" it can't start. Turning over is lingo for crank is turn and piston are going up and down. This happen when starter engages and turns over the engine "cranks it".

If you turn the key to start and hear nothing. But see dash lights dim. You also see security light go off and stay off when key inserted. Then two most common issues are:
No 1 low battery voltage.
No 2 starter contact failing. Contacts will give early warning by sometimes not making contact. Over time with each start, they get worse.

 

[silver02accord]

First your statement is confusing "LC Starts but wont turn over" If it does not "turn over" it can't start. Turning over is lingo for crank is turn and piston are going up and down. This happen when starter engages and turns over the engine "cranks it".

If you turn the key to start and hear nothing. But see dash lights dim. You also see security light go off and stay off when key inserted. Then two most common issues are:
No 1 low battery voltage.
No 2 starter contact failing. Contacts will give early warning by sometimes not making contact. Over time with each start, they get worse.

I have pulled up 6 alternator threads which I am going to read through today, BUT, quick question. When I bought my LX in July the truck would start up just fine. But after a few days/weeks I noticed it was having a harder time turning over although it always started. I was not noticing dimed lights, but mostly using truck during the day. I replaced the battery with a 27f interstate from costco.

I have been trickle charging randomly over the past month just because I bought a 4amp battery tender and want to keep it topped off. When I measured the voltage on day 1(just a couple of days ago but calling it day 1 for simplicity) it was 12.34 volts. The next day it was ~12.27 volts-I may have drove it around I can't recall. I trickle charged it again overnight after measuring 12.27 volts and its back up to 12.34 volts. This is a brand new less than 1 mo old battery. I then checked voltage again today(day 3) after crusing around at low rpms/non freeway for ~20 minutes and it was 12.34 volts. While the truck was running it is about 13.3 volts. If I rev to 2500 rpms the voltage does not change(at least not significantly, it appears to fluctuate a bit but seems to do this when engine is not running as well).

I am thinking simply my alternator is going bad or barely functioning? What number should I expect to see if I plugged the battery tender in for say a week? It doesn't seem it will go above 12.34 volts-could it be a bad battery? I'll plug battery tender in again overnight and see what number I get tomorrow morning prior to driving it.

 

[trdcorolla]

I have pulled up 6 alternator threads which I am going to read through today, BUT, quick question. When I bought my LX in July the truck would start up just fine. But after a few days/weeks I noticed it was having a harder time turning over although it always started. I was not noticing dimed lights, but mostly using truck during the day. I replaced the battery with a 27f interstate from costco.

I have been trickle charging randomly over the past month just because I bought a 4amp battery tender and want to keep it topped off. When I measured the voltage on day 1(just a couple of days ago but calling it day 1 for simplicity) it was 12.34 volts. The next day it was ~12.27 volts-I may have drove it around I can't recall. I trickle charged it again overnight after measuring 12.27 volts and its back up to 12.34 volts. This is a brand new less than 1 mo old battery. I then checked voltage again today(day 3) after crusing around at low rpms/non freeway for ~20 minutes and it was 12.34 volts. While the truck was running it is about 13.3 volts. If I rev to 2500 rpms the voltage does not change(at least not significantly, it appears to fluctuate a bit but seems to do this when engine is not running as well).

I am thinking simply my alternator is going bad or barely functioning? What number should I expect to see if I plugged the battery tender in for say a week? It doesn't seem it will go above 12.34 volts-could it be a bad battery? I'll plug battery tender in again overnight and see what number I get tomorrow morning prior to driving it.

A fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts. Do you have access to another charger to try?

 

[silver02accord]

A fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts. Do you have access to another charger to try?

I can probably procure another trickle charger. I am concerned why it would be below 12.6 so quick after less than a month though. I've had some times where I was running the radio while cleaning the interior etc. but nothing insanely long(1.5 hr max?)

 

[2001LC]

I like to see over 13 volts on a new battery after overnight trickle charge. Anything under 12.7 v, gives me starting issue in 06-07. It is best to disconnect battery cables to trickle charge. Make sure charger clamps on tight.

Additionally if and oxidation on battery post or clamps. Just even the lightest gray, battery will not fully charge by it's alternator.

I clean battery post and clamps to shinny silver. Then I wipe on white lithium grease. Been doing this since I had battery issue in my GTO. Dang battery volts keep dropping too low to start the engine. Then someone told me; clean and grease the post, or they will build oxidation. Been doing ever since, and I never have issue with a good battery.

If you get battery over 13V and it holds over 12.9v not connected to vehicle. But drop just when connected to vehicle. look for draw.

If all checks out it's alternator. Parts store can check that for you.

 

[silver02accord]

I like to see over 13 volts on a new battery after overnight trickle charge. Anything under 12.7 v, gives me starting issue in 06-07. It is best to disconnect battery cables to trickle charge. Make sure charger clamps on tight.

Additionally if and oxidation on battery post or clamps. Just even the lightest gray, battery will not fully charge by it's alternator.

I clean battery post and clamps to shinny silver. Then I wipe on white lithium grease. Been doing this since I had battery issue in my GTO. Dang battery volts keep dropping too low to start the engine. Then someone told me; clean and grease the post, or they will build oxidation. Been doing ever since, and I never have issue with a good battery.

If you get battery over 13V and it holds over 12.9v not connected to vehicle. But drop just when connected to vehicle. look for draw.

If all checks out it's alternator. Parts store can check that for you.

Good call on removing the cables to charge. It's kinda funky the way it attaches but the tender says it's charging and hooked up properly. I put dielectric grease on when installing the battery new so I wouldn't think that's holding it back. Going to d/c now and try your method and also just have O'Reilly check alternator.

Edit:
I went to have alternator tested. It passed as did everything else. Alternator was putting out 13.8 volts which the gentleman said was solid. He was also reading 12.7 volts on the battery. My icarsoft was showing 12.34 as I mentioned so I'll deem the icarsoft unreliable for measuring my voltage! I d/c terminals to make sure to get a good charge from the trickle for the next few days.

 

[Phallen]

I get the terms

First your statement is confusing "LC Starts but wont turn over" If it does not "turn over" it can't start. Turning over is lingo for crank is turn and piston are going up and down. This happen when starter engages and turns over the engine "cranks it".

If you turn the key to start and hear nothing. But see dash lights dim. You also see security light go off and stay off when key inserted. Then two most common issues are:
No 1 low battery voltage.
No 2 starter contact failing. Contacts will give early warning by sometimes not making contact. Over time with each start, they get worse.

I apologize, I get the terms mixed up. The LC turns over but won’t start. When I turn the key, I hear the fuel pump click on and all the dash lights turn on.

Tomorrow, I’ll try and grab a video of it and post it on here

 

[Phallen]

so it happened again this morning. I was able to capture it on video. 1st video is of my LC not starting. The 2nd video is of my LC starting after I waited 10 minutes

Video 1



Video 2




Can you let me know if the videos are visible?

 

[2001LC]

Try posting a youtube here!

 

[Phallen]

Try posting a youtube here!

It should work now

 

[2001LC]

First don't get confused by the brake booster motor coming on, when key turned to on. The brake booster motor runs, whenever key turned to on and brake pressure low. The fuel pump will not come on, until engine is cranking (either starter turning over, or engine running). You can not hear the fuel pump, as the engine noise drowns it out.

I can not clearly hear if it is cranking or not. It did sounds as if it was, and I see battery gauge drop. Assuming it is cranking (starter engage and turning the engine over). Then few condition come to mind.
1) Transmission neutral lock off. If this the case, very often. By shifting to "N" than try to start, if will. So you tried shifting and nothing happen (still did not start). So not likely this!
2) Fuel flow or pressure drop.
A) You replaced fuel pump so not likely that.
B) Fuel injector leak-down needs considering. The fuel injectors hold some fuel. If injectors leak-down as vehicle sits. Then no fuel is available on first crank (auto crank AKA auto start of IG key). This usually just means a long crank. So by just cranking again once maybe twice it would usually start. You did one time report it started on fourth try as you pinch fuel return line Edited: Pinching could damage line! So that did indicate a possible fuel flow or pressure issue. Another test along these lines is to pinch off return line while running. If RPM go up, this indicates a possible fuel pressure issue.

One think I've noticed a number of Toyota dealership shops do. They replace the fuel pump relay, when they replace the fuel pump. I've never done this. But wondered why they did. It should be considered here.

But the only thing we know for sure is the DTC P0335A (crank position sensor). Did you thoroughly check the wiring going to the crank sensor or do anything with the sensor?

BTW: For parts like sensors. I'd only use OEM (From Toyota).

 

[Phallen]

I inspected the wiring to the crankshaft position sensor and it’s intact. I just ordered the sensor along with the fuel pump relay. Hopefully I’ll get it by the weekend.

I’ll report back once I get everything. Thanks for the input

 

[Phallen]

I’m still waiting for the Crankshaft Position Sensor but I came across this video. Any idea on how to check if the fuse box is bad without pulling the box apart

 

[2001LC]

Post #4 "If the engine was turning over (cranking) and the security light on console off (not blinking) with key in.

Post #13 "Again assuming your security light is off during each time you crank engine. "

IIRC: you'd said security light goes off, every time key put into IG switch.???????? If not, the fuse box may indeed be your issue. There is a jumper made for this, search mud.