Corded Impact Wrench vs. Cordless what do I need? (1 Viewer)

[C F Frost]

New wrencher here, and I'm really starting to enjoy this hobby. One thing I have my eyes on is an impact wrench. I was about to buy a Makita 1/2 for around $300 that has massive torque ratings. But then I found the corded Kobalt for $150 and seen great reviews. My question for those who have way more wrenching experience than me: What do I need? I want to be able to do everything from suspension work, to driveshaft, to simply removing lug nuts. What are the advantages of having that High Torque vs something like the Kobalt. Thanks.

The Makita: Makita 18-Volt LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless High Torque 1/2 in. 3-Speed Drive Impact Wrench (Tool-Only)-XWT08Z - The Home Depot

The Kobalt: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-A...TnqB2YG0GD4uvRnVZnEaAq_vEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[1911]

Cordless is handy for trail repairs, other than that, no preference - but I have and use air impact guns, so maybe someone else will have some specific experience.

 

[D21FJ60]

Just make sure you have a strong enough tank- i have a pancake compressor and it struggles to even do wheel lugs sometimes

 

[MDarius]

I just bought the Makita and some off-brand batteries. I bought it because I have the batteries for other tools, then discovered it requires the newer batteries. I'm not sure I believe the torque numbers compared to my experience, could be my batteries. I kicked it all off by breaking a bolt in my engine bay with my second trigger squeeze, so be careful. I went cordless so I could take it on the trail. I like it, but I wish I had purchased an electric ratchet instead of an impact wrench. I have an air impact wrench for use at home. It's heavier and more difficult to get into tight spots, but I have it.

Either way it's a time and effort saver. I prefer cordless over corded every time. The battery technology is so far ahead of where it was I don't see any reason not to go for it, other than the cost of batteries. Get the impact sockets so you don't wear out and break your chrome sockets.

 

[grayjs]

I have all three, cordless, corded and an air impact. I tend to use the cordless the most as it is easiest to set up and can fit in tighter spots.
If I come across really stubborn bolts then I pull out the corded one and it gets the job done. I rarely use my air impact.

 

[C F Frost]

fantastic responses thank you all. Seems like for anything that is rusted best to spray with a lubricant and use breaker bar? But then again...also have heard horror stories.

I guess another question is: with the less powerful corded options, will that suffice your everyday jobs on the rig?

 

[e9999]

It seems to me that if you have to worry about what impact tool to use, it is most likely because of a rusted fastener that is frozen in place. In that case, I would concentrate on the fastener first. For instance, I just removed a heavily rusted bolt a couple of days ago. Tried it by hand first with a breaker bar until I realized that I was actually twisting the bolt head rather than turning it in the thread. Amazingly, it actually withstood more than a full turn of twisting. Just a little bit more and it would have sheared off for sure, though. So I stopped and tackled the bolt directly. Used a torch, lubricant, alternating motion etc. And I got it out fine, although pretzeled up. My point is that had I used a powerful impact wrench right away it would surely have snapped and it would have been a nightmare. So, the most powerful impact wrench may not always be the best move IMHO...

 

[KLF]

I have that same Makita and with a 4AH battery the thing is a beast, actually sometimes too strong. So I also have a smaller 1/2" Makita impact that often does the job but fits into tighter spaces. We use them when at the track, so cordless is really the best option. No way would I want a corded one, dragging that cord around. Same reason I never use my air guns anymore. I'll probably be getting rid of them soon.

 

[2mbb]

If you're new to this, I guess I would question the need at all. I think impact wrenches are a quick way to get into some trouble--breaking off bolt, stripping bolts, etc. I recently got my first battery powered impact and after reading the owners manual, it doesn't seem like it will replace a torque wrench for putting what ever you took apart back together. I guess my advice is to first spend your money on quality hand tools--sockets, ratchets, breaker bars, extensions, etc. It's not as fast, but you will learn the feel of it all.

After some 45 years working on cars & land cruisers, I only have a few times when I couldn't make due with my hand tools. Once was a differential pinion nut that was installed by a professional who installed lockers for me. The other was trying to remove the crank pulley nut from my Honda Pilot to replace the timing belt. The real issue here was having to go through the wheel well to get to the nut. I had snapped together 3 or 4 extensions and couldn't get enough torque on it. I suppose a good impact wrench could have worked in these two situations.

 

[cartercd]

Cordless is definitely more convenient, but more expensive. I have corded tools over 30 years old that work as well today as when they were new. Cordless tools have planned obsolescence.

X2 on making sure you have quality hand tools first before springing for impact wrenches. I often just break bolts loose with my hand tools and then use my cordless drill to spin them off.

 

[wapitimud]

I remember answering this question months ago. Buy the 1/2" Milwaukee high impact or you're wasting your time and money. See the earlier thread on the same.

 

[Weedhopper]

I have a HF corded impact you can have for free. Heavy, poor balance and the freaking cord is a pain. The postage will cost you more than the tool is worth, LOL.

Replaced with a Dewalt cordless, about $250 and it’s awesome. We use it to replace blades on mowers in my landscaping business.

 

[bigredmachine]

if your going to be set up in the garage i would get an air impact, youll be able to run plenty of other tools with a good air compressor. if its a lot of work in the driveway and on the side of the road, cordless is the only way to go.

 

[greenbeast]

I have a couple different Dewalt 3/4" and 1/2" and they do everything i need them to. I just wish they would quit upgrading batteries. Go as new as possible. I'm still trying to justify buying a larger air compressor and keep talking myself out of it. I would like to get sand blaster though. The air tools I purchased in the past i didn't have a big enough compressor for them to work worth a crap.

 

[kerplunk]

I got a dewalt 18V 1/2" several years ago while building a kid's playset (from plans, stock timber, about 100 3/8 lag bolts).

Haven't used it since.

I have a air powered impact. I use it to take tires off (and only OFF). And I worked in a tire shop for 6 months in college, used these things constantly... But having not used them regularly for 20 years, I don't trust myself to put a tire on with them. I know how quick that can go bad.

There are very few jobs that you 'need' one for. A BIG breaker bar will always actually have more force, the only times you really need an impact instead is when the nut is attached to something that's going to turn with it (that big nut holding the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft, or a pinion gear).

But they are really good for cross threading and stripping nuts out really fast!!! (poor man's locktite!!)

 

[ScottT]

Bought a battery Kobalt because I needed one for a trip and Dewalt wasn’t available by when I had to have it. I have an air operated wrench at home. All and all I’ve been pretty happy with the tool. The battery holds charge well and it’s great for tire changes. Used it on some rusted bolts on a mower deck and if worked for that as well. For really tough stuff I like to use a breaker bar. If I can position it properly. I use a racing jack on the breaker bar so I can very gradually increase the force.

 

[ranma21]

Cordless all the way! I uses Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2 impact as well as M12 Fuel 3/8 Stubby impact and M12 Fuel 3/8 Right angle impact at my shop. The M12 Stubby gets most of the job done. M18 is great but heavy, don't use it much unless I have to. Have not use my SnapOn 1/2" air impact yet, my cordless gets the job done, so air impact not needed yet. Look into the M12 3/8 Stubby impact, light and powerful.

 

[Elbert]

If I were to buy right now, given the improvement in electric tools and no history with air tool equipment, it would be milwaukee without question. You can get their stuff at home depot or amazon and I'm sure many other places. I would get a 1/2 impact gun, a 3/8 impact gun, and various other 3/8 drive tools that suit your interest and a few extra batteries. Stay with the same brand. I have milwaukee tools, and I have a few friends who are full time mechanics and the general feedback I get from them is (1) snapon or (2) milwaukee

I know $$$ is $$$, but remember that you can buy some junk and pay twice or get something reasonable in quality and pay reasonable prices. Milwaukee is a good value. I also like williams brand tools for value/quality.

 

[wapitimud]

If you're new to this, I guess I would question the need at all. I think impact wrenches are a quick way to get into some trouble--breaking off bolt, stripping bolts, etc. I recently got my first battery powered impact and after reading the owners manual, it doesn't seem like it will replace a torque wrench for putting what ever you took apart back together. I guess my advice is to first spend your money on quality hand tools--sockets, ratchets, breaker bars, extensions, etc. It's not as fast, but you will learn the feel of it all.

After some 45 years working on cars & land cruisers, I only have a few times when I couldn't make due with my hand tools. Once was a differential pinion nut that was installed by a professional who installed lockers for me. The other was trying to remove the crank pulley nut from my Honda Pilot to replace the timing belt. The real issue here was having to go through the wheel well to get to the nut. I had snapped together 3 or 4 extensions and couldn't get enough torque on it. I suppose a good impact wrench could have worked in these two situations.

The Milwaukee cordless impacts all have a mode button where they will stop at low torque, and never overtorque a bolt. Pointless in disassembly, really important in reassembly. Working on mining equipment in the field, I always try to crack a nut off with a six-point socket on a 1/2" or 3/4" dr breaker bar. If I can't do that, its a 12-point socket with that breaker or the closed end of a wrench. I never use a ratchet unless i've broken the torque already on a larger nut

* You don't always have clearance under a vehicle or heavy equipment to get behind a breaker bar or access.

Often that fails, and you have no way to move the nut after heating, beating and oiling. (always oil a trouble fastener, don't work dry). At this point of no-go, the Milwaukee M18 high torque impact and the Milwaukee M12 right angle impact come into play, and usually they will get the job done on that larger rusted dirty hardware. If its still a no-go, and fully seized, an angle grinder, die grinder or torch to cut away the bolt and/or nut.