Is there a drain plug bottom of the radiator for the lx 470 to release water.Do I have to remove the plate.Thanks.
Cooling system flush & burping coolant: what's your process? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter abuck99
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2001LC
SILVER Star
No, you can leave the skid plate on. You'll see a ~4" round hole capped (if cap not lost) on skid plate PS (RH). Pop the cap out and radiator drain is accessible.
See post #15 for location of all three drains. To loosen the two block drains with a 10mm scoket. You'll need to remove #2 under engine shield (plastic). DS is easy, PS is PITA depending on years, as transmission cooler lines can be in the way. It is possible to get a socket on PS block drain plug from above, just use a mirror or do in the blind (feel) as they say. Again year depended but from above is often easier on PS block drain.
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Prepping for this and consolidating some for future searchers:
Here are pictures of the block drains on @bucfl's 2001 LC from his build thread:
Passenger side:
Driver's side:
This is from the FSM for a 2006 LX:
(a) Tighten the radiator drain cock plug by hand.
(b) Tighten the 2 cylinder block drain cock plugs.
Torque:
Here are pictures of the block drains on @bucfl's 2001 LC from his build thread:
Passenger side:
Driver's side:
This is from the FSM for a 2006 LX:
(a) Tighten the radiator drain cock plug by hand.
(b) Tighten the 2 cylinder block drain cock plugs.
Torque:
12.7 N·m {130 kgf·cm, 9ft·lbf}
So you loosen the nuts that the red arrow points to, and coolant will drain from those tubes?
I'm assuming plastic tubing (size??) on the tubes so you can drain it right in to jugs? (EDIT: I found answers in another flush/radiator thread, 5/16" ID tubing).
I'm assuming plastic tubing (size??) on the tubes so you can drain it right in to jugs? (EDIT: I found answers in another flush/radiator thread, 5/16" ID tubing).
Prepping for this and consolidating some for future searchers:
Here are pictures of the block drains on @bucfl's 2001 LC from his build thread:
Passenger side:
Driver's side:
This is from the FSM for a 2006 LX:
(a) Tighten the radiator drain cock plug by hand.
(b) Tighten the 2 cylinder block drain cock plugs.
Torque:
12.7 N·m {130 kgf·cm, 9ft·lbf}
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I think it is that 10 mm bleeder valve located in the middle. Spray WD-40 or any penetrant a day prior to the project.
When I had my TB changed a year ago they replaced the RED (so it must have been pretty old) Toyota coolant with bright green stuff and I was never able to get an answer on what kind it was. I shrugged and said "oh well, whatever".
It was definitely a bright green color when I originally looked, but now that a year has passed it has turned to an almost light-brown/tan color. It's still nice and clear/see-through and isn't sludgy, but I'm guessing that the color change indicates that some kind of oxidation has taken place and I should flush the stuff, correct?
If the block plugs are stuck or are a PITA to reach, would there be any harm in just draining/filling from the radiator alone like 2-4x until it's all clear, and then draining again and refilling? Or should I really just suck it up and get the block plugs undone? BTW I am planning on getting the Zerex Asian formula.
Thanks guys.
It was definitely a bright green color when I originally looked, but now that a year has passed it has turned to an almost light-brown/tan color. It's still nice and clear/see-through and isn't sludgy, but I'm guessing that the color change indicates that some kind of oxidation has taken place and I should flush the stuff, correct?
If the block plugs are stuck or are a PITA to reach, would there be any harm in just draining/filling from the radiator alone like 2-4x until it's all clear, and then draining again and refilling? Or should I really just suck it up and get the block plugs undone? BTW I am planning on getting the Zerex Asian formula.
Thanks guys.
The block plugs aren't that hard. Get some tubing and it will all drain nicely into your container.
Normally just do it the old fashioned way radiator hose loose let it drain.
After getting a vac setup for my air compressor I'm not going back. Only 65 bucks and gets that coolant in there without bubbles in a jiffy.
Before I drained the old coolant I drove the front wheels of the LC onto my ramps. The ramps are 10" high. After I drained the old coolant I used a Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel to fill the radiator/engine with new coolant. This funnel attaches to the radiator in place of the radiator cap. I ran the engine until it got hot enough to open the thermostat. While the engine is warming up I make sure there is coolant in the funnel. Every minute or so I squeeze the upper radiator hose which usually makes an air bubble come out of the funnel. After I am sure the engine is hot enough to open the thermostat I turn off the engine and leave it until it is cold. I leave the funnel attached to the radiator and fill It half full of coolant.
This is the one I bought after trying out a couple. The adapters are better than the other kits I used. Can be used to pressure test a coolant system as well, just done through vacuum.
OEM Tools 24444 with 5 adapters
5 min learning curve on the tool, but once you get it, you can swap the coolant on a cruiser in all of 30 min. I have used it on about 6 different makes and models and there always seems to be an adapter that works.
2001LC
SILVER Star
"after trying out a couple" which ones did you try out?
I used two brands: a friends MityVac which worked fine - it was a quality tool with fewer adapters. I also tried a cheap model from Amazon made by FJC which I returned as the cone style adapter wouldn't hold vacuum at the radiator cap.
The "oemtool" one I settled on I have one misgiving - the valve handles are plastic/nylon and I'm not sure they will hold up years down the road. That said I think there are plenty of options to swap them with if they were to break.
The adapters so far have fit:. 4th and 5th gen 4runner. My LC. Chevy Equinox, Buick Rendezvous, '01 Honda Civic, an 89 ram charger, and lent it to a neighbor to do his early 2000s Lexus sedan.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I'm looking for a good coolant pressure test kit w/cap tester. OEM and Mityvac are at top of my list.
I'm good with filling with just a funnel and recheck level after cool down. If a kit has fill I'll try it. But I find so many system low, checking level under cap is key.
I'm good with filling with just a funnel and recheck level after cool down. If a kit has fill I'll try it. But I find so many system low, checking level under cap is key.
I have found zero air in my system if I use the tool properly, and after removing the adapter I will add a small amount of coolant to top up the radiator.
The instructions that come with the OEM tool coolant vac are poor. I went to YouTube for a tutorial and that was great.
I have used funnels for about ten years and never had an issue if the system was burped properly, but this tool makes the job almost completely mess-free now.
2001LC
SILVER Star
What pump or kit are you using with OEM Tools 24444 with 5 adapters?
Not sure I know what you mean.
It hooks straight to my air compressor using a Venturi valve included in the kit.
There are two valves, one for creating system vacuum and the other for fluid transfer. First image is the fluid transfer valve and the other is the Venturi valve which plugs into it using my air compressor.
