Coolant leak at water inlet and..
- Thread starter 2001LC
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I wonder if Toyota engineers decided to take a failure point out of the equation for service departments?
Namely the proper use of the correct FIPG, including the recommended curing time.
Namely the proper use of the correct FIPG, including the recommended curing time.
I ended up taking it to a Toyota mechanic and they verified that that's where it was leaking. He could tell that when the previous owner removed that part to replace the timing belt, he didn't clean out the old gasket before he applied the fluid for the new gasket. So he just cleaned it up really good and re-did it by the book.
Old one with the new one:
The new one has a slightly different design, but seems like it will bolt up just fine. My main concern is the non-FIPG gasket.
The new one has a slightly different design, but seems like it will bolt up just fine. My main concern is the non-FIPG gasket.
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thanks LC. I just spoke with the parts dept where I bought this and sent them the pic. They'll show a few techs and see if they know anything about it, but there is no TSB on the new part number, and no FSM revision.
I do have a new thermostat and gasket, and will lube the o ring.
Was going to add that I also showed my mechanic, who is a Toyota certified master technician, a picture from an ebay listing with that factory-installed gasket, and he hadn't ever seen one before.
2001LC
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- #68
Some parts say like hose clamps. Come with a clip to make install easier. I suspect that the case here. They add the FIPG of corrected amount and type for easy of assembly.
What I find interesting is it implies we can let FIPG cure than assembly. Not that I would here. But when we find some pitting at a water gasket seal point. Say like water bypass joint on head side, or on block where water pump seats. These places use a gasket with a rubbery (perhaps silicone) like seal.
What I've suggested in mud to others, but not tried. Is to clean pits and apply 1282B FIPG. Than scrap flush with razor before FIPG sets up (within 3 minutes). I feel more confident doing this now, I see your new part has pre sealant on it.
What I find interesting is it implies we can let FIPG cure than assembly. Not that I would here. But when we find some pitting at a water gasket seal point. Say like water bypass joint on head side, or on block where water pump seats. These places use a gasket with a rubbery (perhaps silicone) like seal.
What I've suggested in mud to others, but not tried. Is to clean pits and apply 1282B FIPG. Than scrap flush with razor before FIPG sets up (within 3 minutes). I feel more confident doing this now, I see your new part has pre sealant on it.
for what it's worth, this feels harder than cured FIPG... less rubbery.
the fact that your pic of that square o ring has a start and stop point clearly seen means that I wouldn't use it as a final assembly. I'd still remove and work as instructed in the past, it's proven to work and will work with a fresh bead.
I'd be scared of calling that a pre sealant pre applied liquid gasket or anything usable. It has a ridge where the stop start is? (left side middle)
square o rings don't look like that, ever.
I'd be scared of calling that a pre sealant pre applied liquid gasket or anything usable. It has a ridge where the stop start is? (left side middle)
square o rings don't look like that, ever.
this was actually my initial thought... but then my thought/concern was what if there's no groove under there?
will a fresh bead of FIPG work well if there's no groove?
this is where I'm at right now.
I'm going to try it as-is. If it leaks... well it's not like I've got anywhere to be for a few weeks. I'll pull the pre-made gasket and redo it with FIPG (or spend time rehabbing the old part)
If it doesn't leak, we'll all know for future purposes.
I honestly don't think 13 ft-lbs is going to compress this like it would fresh FIPG.
I'll see if the surfaces don't mate perfectly at 13 lbs.
I was hoping to find a TSB on this p/n with a new torque value
Ok so.... the gasket deformed nicely and spread out around all edges.
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GTV
SILVER Star
I'm getting some conflicting information on the part number for this o-ring, can anyone confirm what the correct number is?
2001LC
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- #80
Coolant leak at water inlet and..
Working on a 00LC w/169K miles. Note: title is only starting point, much more was done. First up is getting coolant leak(s) under control. Coolant leak repair is the most important thing we must fix. Then I'll move on to Power steering leaks and other issues. The water inlet to water by-pass...
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