FAQ Converting HF2AV Transfer Case into Part Time Transfer Case (1 Viewer)

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I'll start another thread to not dilute this one but, an update...

The auto machine shop couldn't do the job and refered this machinst. I printed out the file Tim attached above and asked if he could reproduce it. He wasn't sure what types of plastic he had on hand but thought he had a block of Delrin. He was nervous about machining the Long's, being so hard and having to "stutter" the cut with the splines. I made a quick call to Bobbie (once again, amazining customer service from Mr. Longfield :beer: ), he talked with the machinist, reassured him and I'll get a call tomorrow to see how it went.

I'll post up pics of what he comes up with...
 
I got the word from the machinist to come pick up the parts, all looks right, no excuses now...
image-1564512191.jpg
image-4064912218.jpg
 
FYI...while cleaning the pile of crap off of my tool box I found two extra UHMW buttons and extra UMHW rod. Rather than hold onto the stuff I'd prefer to pass the buttons along to a couple folks who'll use them. As far as the rod I'd like to pass it along to someone who has access to a lathe that would be willing to use up the material for the benefit of the group. If you're interested in one of the buttons or the rod PM me.

Cheers


Edit: the buttons are gone.
 
Last edited:
Should I regroove my longfields?

Hi guys

Great thread! Been searching all night, but still not sure and was hoping you guys can help me. I've got a '95 axle and have been running my Longfields for about 6 years now with Aisin hubs (one side is from a 60 LC, other side from a mini truck, and I have a part-time T-case).

My issue is that I'm tearing through axle seals like there is no tomorrow. I have to replace them about 3-4 times a year, so it's staring to get a little old. :crybaby: Is this perhaps due to the axle sliding in and out? If so, it would appear that what I need to do is get that second groove machined for a snapring to prevent the migrating of the axle shafts.

I got the measurements above thanks, but thought to just ask whether this is likely my problem, if those measurements are indeed for my '94+ longfield BF shafts and if I need to do anything else (spacer?)

Thanks
Gary
 
Dunno if you got an answer to this but, yes, you should regroove. Since the virtual pivot of the birf and inner axle is based on the location of the cage and balls, the longer stub and now added locking hubs, would push this inboard. With this pivot now no longer "centered" in the knuckle bearing axis, the inner axle would rotate in an oval shape when going from left to right turn(in relation to the inner seal axis). This will kill the seals for sure.


Winch said:
Hi guys

Great thread! Been searching all night, but still not sure and was hoping you guys can help me. I've got a '95 axle and have been running my Longfields for about 6 years now with Aisin hubs (one side is from a 60 LC, other side from a mini truck, and I have a part-time T-case).

My issue is that I'm tearing through axle seals like there is no tomorrow. I have to replace them about 3-4 times a year, so it's staring to get a little old. :crybaby: Is this perhaps due to the axle sliding in and out? If so, it would appear that what I need to do is get that second groove machined for a snapring to prevent the migrating of the axle shafts.

I got the measurements above thanks, but thought to just ask whether this is likely my problem, if those measurements are indeed for my '94+ longfield BF shafts and if I need to do anything else (spacer?)

Thanks
Gary
Click to expand...
 
cruiserbrett: could you break down what you wrote a bit more, add diagrams maybe??
 
cruiserbrett said:
Dunno if you got an answer to this but, yes, you should regroove. Since the virtual pivot of the birf and inner axle is based on the location of the cage and balls, the longer stub and now added locking hubs, would push this inboard. With this pivot now no longer "centered" in the knuckle bearing axis, the inner axle would rotate in an oval shape when going from left to right turn(in relation to the inner seal axis). This will kill the seals for sure.
Click to expand...

If his where not grooved in the correct location the axle would have damage the hub by now. The birf is designed to fit tight against the brass spindle bushing (my guess is you already know this), if not there is nothing keeping the axle away from damaging the hub face.
 
Winch said:
Hi guys

Great thread! Been searching all night, but still not sure and was hoping you guys can help me. I've got a '95 axle and have been running my Longfields for about 6 years now with Aisin hubs (one side is from a 60 LC, other side from a mini truck, and I have a part-time T-case).

My issue is that I'm tearing through axle seals like there is no tomorrow. I have to replace them about 3-4 times a year, so it's staring to get a little old. :crybaby: Is this perhaps due to the axle sliding in and out? If so, it would appear that what I need to do is get that second groove machined for a snapring to prevent the migrating of the axle shafts.

I got the measurements above thanks, but thought to just ask whether this is likely my problem, if those measurements are indeed for my '94+ longfield BF shafts and if I need to do anything else (spacer?)

Thanks
Gary
Click to expand...

Are you using factory inner axle seals?
Is there any damage to the inner hub dial? If not groove correctly the axle will contact the hub dial.
Have you checked your spindle bushing?
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I ended up re-grooving any ways, but haven't really been driving the truck very much since I re-grooved. As I mentioned, I could slide the axle in and out by about 6mm (1/4"), so now that I re-grooved, this was no longer possible, so I'm hoping that my seals will last.

Over the years, I have used mostly OEM seals, but did try Marlin's double lipped seals, but they failed just the same. I've been in and outa there so may times changing seals, but I never did notice any other sign of damage, rubbing or anything. And the axle stubs didn't touch the inside of the hub dial.
 
Winch said:
Thanks for the replies, guys. I ended up re-grooving any ways, but haven't really been driving the truck very much since I re-grooved. As I mentioned, I could slide the axle in and out by about 6mm (1/4"), so now that I re-grooved, this was no longer possible, so I'm hoping that my seals will last.

Over the years, I have used mostly OEM seals, but did try Marlin's double lipped seals, but they failed just the same. I've been in and outa there so may times changing seals, but I never did notice any other sign of damage, rubbing or anything. And the axle stubs didn't touch the inside of the hub dial.
Click to expand...

Marlin makes great seal and other product but for the 80 series OEM inner axle seals will work the best. OEM are suspension seals allowing the seal to work with axle up/down movement.
 
beno said:
Have you bashed on your front axle housing at all? You might have a bent front axle housing....

I know I do...

:crybaby:
Click to expand...

Yes, my axle is bent slightly since my camber on both sides are off. Not enough to notice with the naked eye, but it's there. It's on my to do list to fix this and do some other work on my axle at the same time. So, while I think this might be a cause for the seal failure as well, I thought the sliding of the seal back and forth over the tiny groove it created on the race is probably a bigger culprit. I will see if the re-grooving made a difference. I hope that it would. :clap:
 
I don't have anymore UHMW buttons only an aluminum one that's not a useable solution. I have the raw material I'm willing to part with for the cost of shipping if anyone has someone to perform the machine work.
 
Hi all,

Looks like all the experts are here!
I am looking for an alternative to the 2wd to 4wd actuator motor on the TC. I am having the one and only 80 in my state, and fedup of fixing the actuator (several times) with limited resources. I wish if i can have a stick kind of conversion, any lead?

Sorry for hijacking the thread, its easy to explain here as most of you know what i am talking about.

TIA
 
cool breeze said:
Very cool, will be watching! Im already lucky enough to have a non VC equipped t-case.
Click to expand...

Some of the t-cases came with a viscous coupler, and some did not? Which one is which?
 
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