FAQ Converting HF2AV Transfer Case into Part Time Transfer Case (4 Viewers)

[jynx]

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but after reading the whole thing, I was just wondered how everything was holding up?

I am gathering parts for some TLC TLC, and I was debating on swapping on a set of mini-truck hubs when I rebuild and regear the front end to possibly prepare for a future PT t-case mod and was just curious how ur modified case was holding up?

Also, speaking to the later part of this thread, has anyone used the Iron-Pig conversion gear with Longs? Just wondering how the snap-ring grooves line up on those...
(k so after reading a little more, are the conversion gears that IPOR sells, the same as the Long gears that are being discussed in this thread or are the IFS conversion hub gears different. Thanks)

Thanks for the write up,

-Tucker

 

[OGBeno]

Everything has worked great. No issues on my end...except for a leak front output seal. Gotta get back in there for that.

My next move will be to switch over my J60 front Aisin hubs to the correct scalloped 80 series Aisin hubs with the gold cover that came on 105 series cruisers. These are available in the US and these will be my Xmas present to myself.



Kris will have to address how his have held up.

 

[cmiller114]

Great thread Beno, Thanks!

Could you revisit your MPG in 2WD......I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around 34MPG. Thanks again.

 

[landtank]

Everything has worked great. No issues on my end...except for a leak front output seal. Gotta get back in there for that.

My next move will be to switch over my J60 front Aisin hubs to the correct scalloped 80 series Aisin hubs with the gold cover that came on 105 series cruisers. These are available in the US and these will be my Xmas present to myself.



Kris will have to address how his have held up.

the part number I got for these is 43530-60042, is that correct?

 

[OGBeno]

the part number I got for these is 43530-60042, is that correct?

Yup. They are available as a normal part number in the US EPC Rick.

They are not cheap....even with a MUD discount from Dan or myself, or from your local dealer's discount.

 

[landtank]

I bought a 83 FJ40 and have a set of locked 80 axles. These would be on my list of parts.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Everything has worked great. No issues on my end...except for a leak front output seal. Gotta get back in there for that.

My next move will be to switch over my J60 front Aisin hubs to the correct scalloped 80 series Aisin hubs with the gold cover that came on 105 series cruisers. These are available in the US and these will be my Xmas present to myself.



Kris will have to address how his have held up.

How do these differ from the Aisin 60 hubs? Will they work with late model axles or do you still need to grove to relocate the snap ring? And lastly what is the cost for 105 hubs for a smart shopper?

Sorry if my answers are in the past 8 pages, I did read them a while back but....

 

[OGBeno]

I bought a 83 FJ40 and have a set of locked 80 axles. These would be on my list of parts.

Last I checked (about a month ago) there were 3 correct 80/105 series free wheel Aisin hubs in the US at the "Japan warehouse" in Ontario, California.

A set is going to set you back about $480 or so.

 

[OGBeno]

How do these differ from the Aisin 60 hubs? Will they work with late model axles or do you still need to grove to relocate the snap ring? And lastly what is the cost for 105 hubs for a smart shopper?

Sorry if my answers are in the past 8 pages, I did read them a while back but....

Phil:

These are short bodied Aisins, just like the J60/mini truck Aisins. Except the only difference is that they have the "correct" 80 series scalloped wheel hub flange to manual hub mating surface area. So, you can use the current 43422-60060 hub gasket for the full time flange on the free wheel hub flange.

That's really the only difference. I am currently running the J60 free wheel hubs (rebuilt) on my 80 and love them.

I am merely wanting and getting the "correct" 80/105 series manual hubs because of the correct fit and the coolness factor. That's pretty much it. There is nothing really different about them except that they are brand new OEM.

For any 80 post 4/1994 build date you will have to either machine/grind a new snap ring groove or get a set of birfields pre-4/1994. The new OEM part number is 43405-60120. These came stock on the 1991-2 FJ80's and 8/1992-4/1994 FZJ80's with ABS.

Going to manual hubs will void ABS usage unless you keep your front hubs running locked all the time which sort of defeats the purpose of having manual front hubs.

Hope this helps.

 

[js93cruiser]

if i'm using the marcks kit i'm not supposed to re use the cross shaft in the center diff correct?

 

[OGBeno]

if i'm using the marcks kit i'm not supposed to re use the cross shaft in the center diff correct?

Correct. Cross shaft and side gears are tossed out the window. You will have your input, your front gear, your spool (Mark's gear) in the rear case, no VC, and a spacer attached to the Mark's gear to support the front output shaft into the center diff front case.

 

[js93cruiser]

thanks beno, whn you said to torque the "rear case bolts" down to 72 ft lbs which ones are those? and you said to torque all the rest of the 14mm bolts to 27 ft lbs?

 

[packetstormin]

Question: What is the metal ring that I have drawn the red arrow towards? The guy I bought my tcase from took the vc out and when I went to reseal the rear output housing that little metal ring just fell on to the work bench. Does it need to be in the tcase since the vc is gone? I really need help on this one.

 

[JohnR]

I just read this thread, and felt the need to address something. The reason the case warped a bit is TOO low of a heat input. It seems counter-productive, but the faster you can get heat in, the less time you spend welding, less net total heat input. I would have probably run it at around 200-220A and done it in stages trying not to go over 3-400 degrees, and would have preheated it to about 200 to start to try and burn out some of the crap floating around. Next time, run the torch with a slightly oxidizing flame over the gears before welding, to preheat everything. Added benefit is pulling the oil to the surface and burning it off. After each pass let it cool a bit. but not under 200. I've spooled enough rear ends (every process imaginable.. mig tig stick and brazed.. lol..) to know all about warping..

 

[JohnR]

BTW, the rule of thumb is 1 amp per thousanths for tig.. So bare minimum 200A to really dig it in there... if you have a pulser it helps alot as well... last thing I spooled was a honda jap-spec 16b tranny for a turbo car (drag). I know of one picture off the top of my head..

200A
5 pulse per second
75% peak time
40% background current
'dig' set to 90%

I'll see if I can dig up some pictures..

</threadjack>

 

[packetstormin]

bump for help

 

[OGBeno]

Depends on which snap ring that is.

Is your output shaft still in the rear extension housing? Does it move or is it solid?

IIRC, that is the snap ring for the VC in the pic. IIRC, I s***canned it.

 

[packetstormin]

I'm pretty sure its not a snap ring since its solid. Imagine a giant washer as that's what it looks like. Yes output shaft is still in rear extension housing.

 

[packetstormin]

Bump for thoughts on whether or not I can run without giant metal washer looking thing. I gotta button this thing up today.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Bump for thoughts on whether or not I can run without giant metal washer looking thing. I gotta button this thing up today.

I just took a look at the parts I had remaining after I installed my part-time kit. (Note the parts are laying on your parts washer) You can see in the picture only the snap ring that holds the VC was removed.

The 2 other rings pictured are from the birf/axle and were ellimated after a did the Martack upgrade

HTH