Constant power to 12v outlets (1 Viewer)

[Ice cold]

Here goes. I have a 05lx470, and would like to have constant power to the rear 12v outlet for a fridge. I see the instructions for the earlier models, but not the newer ones. Does anyone know were I could add a jumper to have constant power? I did find a fuse on the driver side kick panel for acc. What I need to locate is the relay. Any advise on the situation would be appreciated, thanks.

Jason

 

[Ice cold]

Correction, fuse 29 power outlet, not acc.

 

[Mike6158]

You might want to consider putting one of these inline. I'll be watching this thread. I'm about to do the same thing

 

[nissanh]

I did this with brand new wiring. I try not to alter the existing wiring in the truck. All I did was to run a + wire with an inline fuse right at the positive terminal at the battery through the front of the radiator, pass. headlight area through the rubber grommet at the pass. firewall and right into the existing power outlet in the center bezel.

 

[Mike6158]

You might want to consider putting one of these inline. I'll be watching this thread. I'm about to do the same thing

I guess it would have been nice if I had included a link to "one of these"

Byonics - APO3

 

[RootMeanSqr]

I agree with running fused power direct from the battery.

If you are planning on a fridge with a low voltage shut off (battery saver), it's likely that it won't work off the 12V outlet at the rear. My ARB fridge would draw enough current at compressor start up that the small gauge wiring would drop enough voltage that the fridge would then shutoff. This was just a temporary setup as I had eventual plans to run dedicated power to the back. Since it didn't work using the 12V outlet, my power plans moved to the front of the list.

 

[hoser]

^^^ x2. Also, don't use a "cig lighter" plug but rather something like an Anderson plug.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Not a good idea running a fridge off the factory back 12v outlet due to the huge voltage loss from my testing.
I use factory 12v outlets and Blue sea only and have never had a plug in problem after years off off road travel using several different fridges. With that said on my '06 I run a dedicated fused #10 wire from the battery to the factory 12v plug to eliminate voltage loss for the fridge.
If you ever measure the battery voltage compared to any of the 12 volt outlets you see voltage drop just due to all the other wiring to get to the battery source.

If you goal is just to get constant 12 to the 100 outlet in the older 100 series the acc 12volt outlet relay is under the hood. Remove the relay and jump it out with a simple jumper wire and you are done. On newer models is more difficult due to the relay is on the back side of the drivers kick panel relay bank. To get to it you need to remove a bunch of wiring to get to the back side to jump the relay out.

 

[Ice cold]

Thanks for the input. Looks like a wire to the factory plug in the back would be the smartest. I just need to find some motivation to knock it out.

 

[taco47001]

I looked into this as well but what I found wasn't appealing. The newer 100's (03+ i think) have the power center located in the lower left kick panel on the drivers side. What is the pain in the arsenal about it is that Mr T decided to face the components away from the inside of the truck. To make a long story short, it seems doing this mod on an 03+ is a pretty involved process. Probably easier to run a dedicated wire as others have suggested.

Make Your Power Outlets ALWAYS On

 

[MastiffDad14]

I ran a dedicated 8 gauge wire with a 50a breaker from the battery. Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Surface Mount 50A Circuit Breaker : Magnetic Circuit Breakers : Sports & Outdoors
to the rear compartment where the bottle jack is stored.

installed a 6 accessory deep sea fuse block with ground. (ground to chassis in jack compartment) Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover : Auxiliary Fuse Block : Sports & Outdoors


And mounted this in the removable panel where the jack is stored.
Amazon.com: Cllena Triple Function Dual USB Charger + Red LED Voltmeter + 12V Outlet Socket Panel Jack Marine For Digital Devices Mobile Phone Tablet: Cell Phones & Accessories

I love how they are always on and if for some reason I feel like turning them off I just open the hood and press the switch on the breaker. Total install time 2 hours taking your time and less than $100.

It is probably one if my top 3 favorite things I've done to the truck. I love the availability to keep an eye on voltage while camping and tailgating.

I'll gladly post up some pictures if there is interest.

 

[4Beast]

I'm interested in more info on all of these options. Where is everyone running the wires to the rear? Are they snaked through the plastic side panels, headliner, carpet, weatherstripping, on the chassis outside? I really just need one for a fridge, so some of the full fuse boxes look awesome, but are probably unnecessary for me and possibly above my skills.

 

[REZARF]

Fwiw, I really really really dislike the factory position for the plug, it gets in the way in a lot of usable space and seems to get knocked around a good bit... Read unplugged. I'd add an Anderson plug outlet below the factory subwoofer or have a separate Anderson plug tucked under the rear carpet overlap.

 

[MastiffDad14]

I'm interested in more info on all of these options. Where is everyone running the wires to the rear? Are they snaked through the plastic side panels, headliner, carpet, weatherstripping, on the chassis outside? I really just need one for a fridge, so some of the full fuse boxes look awesome, but are probably unnecessary for me and possibly above my skills.

There is a large rubber grommet on the driver side under the hood where I ran the wires through, it pops out on the inside of the car near the dead pedal.

continue running the wire through, and pull up the door sill trim panel there is a channel for the wire to Snake though run it all the way to the rear of the car when you're past the rear doors run the wire behind the rear plastic side panel and have it come out where the rear jack is/was stored.

 

[4Beast]

There is a large rubber grommet on the driver side under the hood where I ran the wires through, it pops out on the inside of the car near the dead pedal.

continue running the wire through, and pull up the door sill trim panel there is a channel for the wire to Snake though run it all the way to the rear of the car when you're past the rear doors run the wire behind the rear plastic side panel and have it come out where the rear jack is/was stored.

Thanks! That seems like the easiest way. Is there consensus on what gauge wire and fuses, if I'm going to just add a marine 12v or Anderson pole? And I can just ground the negative wire? Thanks for everyone's patience!

 

[MastiffDad14]

I did just run a positive wire 8ga welding wire and ran a 1' ground wire off the fuse block to a solid spot I found on the chassis in the jack compartment.

I ran 25 amps through that set up just fine with none of the wire getting hot or having a large voltage drop just 0.1v drop with a large load.

Anyways long story short I'd like to mount a compressor in the back of my rig and with a 40, 50 amps I'm going to rerun the wire using 4ga welding wire this time.

 

[4Beast]

Appreciate it. No way you're going to get 4 gauge under the door sill though, right?

 

[MastiffDad14]

Appreciate it. No way you're going to get 4 gauge under the door sill though, right?

Im feeling confident, If I can't I'll settle for 6ga.

 

[REZARF]

4 gauge should fit. There is a lot of room.

I would suggest running at least 12ga for a fridge, with 10 gauge being even better, just remember to fuse it off the battery. If you think you'll add more gizmo's to the rear of the 100, adding a secondary fuse block is just as easy to add. There are a lot of write ups on how to do it. If you ground near the fridge, just make sure you are getting a good solid ground down to bear metal... a dab of petroleum jelly after you crank it down will keep rust from forming.

Here is a thread I wrote on how to add a second fuse panel it is for 40's but the concept is the same.

Second fuse panel picture write up.

 

[ftzgrlds1]

Would love to see some pics of this install if you have the time! Thanks either way for the write up.

I ran a dedicated 8 gauge wire with a 50a breaker from the battery. Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 285-Series Surface Mount 50A Circuit Breaker : Magnetic Circuit Breakers : Sports & Outdoors
to the rear compartment where the bottle jack is stored.

installed a 6 accessory deep sea fuse block with ground. (ground to chassis in jack compartment) Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover : Auxiliary Fuse Block : Sports & Outdoors


And mounted this in the removable panel where the jack is stored.
Amazon.com: Cllena Triple Function Dual USB Charger + Red LED Voltmeter + 12V Outlet Socket Panel Jack Marine For Digital Devices Mobile Phone Tablet: Cell Phones & Accessories

I love how they are always on and if for some reason I feel like turning them off I just open the hood and press the switch on the breaker. Total install time 2 hours taking your time and less than $100.

It is probably one if my top 3 favorite things I've done to the truck. I love the availability to keep an eye on voltage while camping and tailgating.

I'll gladly post up some pictures if there is interest.