Second fuse panel picture write up.

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Second fuse block install with picture write up.

Well, after contemplating how many little do-dads were getting added to the 40 over the years, and considering there were 2 in-line cheap-o fuses to wire up a few things. I decided it was high time to install a second fuse panel and get all these installed and powered safely and effectively.

I wanted to keep the same glass style fuses so I looked around and really liked the Blue Sea 5015 fuse panel as it has all of the following:

*It retains the glass fuses.
*It is made for the marine environment.
*It has fancy little labels.
*All stainless hardware.
*Small size, fits nearly anywhere.
*Ground bus for grounding everything at once.
*It has little yellow levers for popping the fuse out. :D

Pic 1: Here is the birds nest of the wiring I started with.
Pic 2: Here is the fuse panels new home. Glove box made a perfect fit.
Pic 3: The panel itself.
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First step is figuring out where you want this thing. I like the glove box, the unit is so small that it doesn't hardly take up any room. It is out of sight, and wiring to the dash/Tuffy is easy from here. Plus I really hate contorting my back to get a look at the stock fuse block so for the additional fuse block I chose to make it easy to see and access.

Here is where I mounted mine, I used two stainless sheet metal screws #10 and 1/2" in length.

Make sure the cover can be installed and removed easily where ever you choose to mount it up.

I threw in a pic of the cool little labels that can be back-lit at night... if you choose to. I had a few extra labels laying around from my trailer build up. I still need to add labels for the CB and the Ham radio... once I get my license. :D
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Next I ran the power wires to the block. For my needs I ran 8awg wire to from the battery to the block using high strand Oxygen free copper wire left over from when I used to install lots of car audio. I thought since this could be used as a how to for some folks, I will break down a few of the key steps to making this a solid, safe install.

First install the ring terminal onto the end of your wire. Make sure not to leave any exposed copper hanging out of the back of the terminal. Then make sure you see the wire coming out of the end of the terminal, and use a proper crimping tool to set the crimp on the terminal.

You can fit high strand 8ga into the 10ga terminals as long as you twist the wire in its natural direction and push as you go. It kinda screws into the terminal then. This can be a money saver as the 8ga stuff is kinda hard to find sometimes but the 10-12ga stuff is everywhere.

I used shrink wrap through out every wire, and I would recommend the same if you are going to install any wiring into your rig. It keeps dirt out and adds another layer of protection against shorting out.

Pretty basic, but electrical seems to be voodoo to some folks.
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Since I used what I had on hand, lots of red 8ga wire, I marked the ends with a silver sharpie to avoid any confusion down the road... this is not something you want to guess at :D

Now both ends can be bolted down onto the #10 stainless posts and run through the firewall. I zip tied them together to make the install nice and clean. Also, my old 40 firewall gromet had seen better days and was missing, so I took some rubber edge trim and lined the hole with it so I woudn't chafe the wires as they come through the firewall.
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Now we will move up to the battery side of things. I decided to install an in-line fuse holder right at the battery. You will need to fuse the main line to the fuse block to prevent a possible fire disaster in your rig.

I had this one laying around (again, old car audio on-hand) it is pretty simple, just slide the weatherproof boot onto the wire, strip the end, install the fuse holder, tighten the set screw... on each side of the wire.

Then you install the fuse and clear cover and press them together... pretty easy but effective and provides a simple visual to make sure all is well with the fuse. All the audio stuff is usually gold plated and costs a lot less than you'd think.
battery2.JPG
fuse1.JPG
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Next up, the battery terminal. I had so many thing bolted to this old brass terminal that I should be embarrassed :meh:

So, I dropped the coin on a new car-audio style terminal that has provisions for one 2ga wire, one 4ga wire, and two 8-10ga. wires. It is pretty sweet and well worth the coin if you are installing a few things in your rig. I have a winch that uses the 4ga slot, the factory fuse block uses one of the small holes and the new fuse block uses the other small hole. I will power the Ham and Starter off the other 2ga hole :D

Looking cleaner already! :bounce: (no, the starter wire will be upgraded)
battery3.JPG
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Now we head back into the cab to finish the wiring. I can't stand it when wiring is messy and unorganized so I first tape both the POS and NEG wires together, then I zip tie them to the other pairs of wire to make one group. I use a zip tie about every 4" or so that the wires stay tight and still flexible. Then it is time to stuff them into some loom.

Once they are at home in the loom, I find out the best way to route them behind the dash. I came up right under the firewall hole and over the top of the glove box side. This way they dump in right above the fuse block giving me a few inches of wiggle room to cut, crimp and heat shrink the ends of the wires.

I used red (pink :eek:)and black shrink wrap to keep it straight what goes where, though it should be a problem... I would mess it up somehow. :D

I used #10 ring terminals to mount up the leads to the fuse block. Pretty straight forward huh? ;) :D
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Here is the finished product! :D

I hope this might help someone who wants to add that second block. Only thing I'd change is adding two more at once! :D I am already out of room on this one, and they don't make a fuse panel with more slots than the 6 shown. :( But if you are willing to swap over to the blade style you can get about a gazillion circuits on one fuse panel.

I will be adding my Hella 4000's to the panel tomorrow and I hope to get the labels for the CB and Ham soon.

Hope it helps!
wires4.JPG
 

Coolerman

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Looking good! Very neat installation. Blue Sea does make quality stuff.

A suggestion for those contemplating this install would be to add a resettable circuit breaker instead of a large fuse. Waytek Wire : Electrical Wiring Supplies & Industrial Products carries a full line of marine grade resettable circuit breakers up to 200 amps. Push button disconnect so you can work on the circuit and push to reset should you accidently trip it with a screwdriver! ;)

You mentioned backlighting the labels? :confused:
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Nice

That is a really sleek setup I like how everything is labled for convience. Looks robust.
 
Joined
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Looking good! Very neat installation. Blue Sea does make quality stuff.

A suggestion for those contemplating this install would be to add a resettable circuit breaker instead of a large fuse. Waytek Wire : Electrical Wiring Supplies & Industrial Products carries a full line of marine grade resettable circuit breakers up to 200 amps. Push button disconnect so you can work on the circuit and push to reset should you accidently trip it with a screwdriver! ;)

You mentioned backlighting the labels? :confused:

Totally agree, the circuit breaker is great, but the fuse was already free and in hand! :D
 

bajaphile

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That is a high quality block, and nice job installing.

I had bought one of those cheapo fuse blocks for my 4runner a while back for the accessories. I hadn't thought about it at the time, but, having a block with the ground point like yours is so much nicer. Rather than drilling random little holes or whatever, you aready have the ground point right there.

Nice job!!
 

brooklyn

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new car-audio style terminal - where did you get it? I could use on of those....
 

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