Considering a V8 swap...got questions

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@FJ Noob it's a case of deciding where you want your 60 to perform. i went back n read your first post so with in mind i'd strongly suggest you find and read the build by moses ludel of the engine he built for his 40. if my memory serves correctly it was a 400"sbc block with a 350"sbc crank. that brings you to about 383cid. for what you've got in mind keep this in mind... torque is what's required to get these 12" concrete blocks we call fj60s moving, horsepower is what keeps them moving. i'll try to find the build in my library n let you know where look for it.
a carbed 350 sbc is stupid simple for working on, which i'm sure your f.i.l. would second, as it basically runs on 1 wire, clear fuel n clean air. no, i'm not against a ls of what ever alphabet soup, just presenting pro's in favor of old school $h!t.
in the end it boils down to building what you want n if it doesn't work build it again, it's not your daily
 
or a couple flys in the ointment :flipoff2: , ford windsor block 351 or mopar 360. the 351 is some poundage lighter than a sbc. the 360 mopar i've not delved into
 
a reasonably fair comparison on a 5.3 swap is a GM 1500 pickup or GM SUV. A V8 swap makes the truck fun to drive, it actually has power, you can pass someone, you can actually accelerate up a hill, or even stay up with traffic on the interstate.

*** I'm sure there are people in your area or general area that have a V8 swapped truck, why not fish around over in the NC state club-house and find someone there, and ask them to show you around and take you for a test drive so you can get feedback first hand. See clubhouse link at the top of this screen, if you don't already know how to get over to that area. Ask (in person) what their issues are / were and look around and take notes/pictures. Better yet...ask the person what if anything they would do different.


This is the best “Advise” offered in all of the responses “offered” on this string. It’s your truck, snoop around and see what others have done and find what’s best for you! I only say this because I’m in the same boat as you, I have a 40 and a 60. I plan on installing a V8 in my 60, just not sure what route I plan on pursuing yet. When I get more serious about it, I’ll reach out to my fellow local cruiser addicts who have V8 swaps and see what I like. Sometimes, the most obvious answer is right in front of us....
 
Here’s an old build that might be of interest
 
If you do anything... a good theme to follow is (don't re-invent the wheel). Pay attention to what common swaps are out there, and what others have done, plus what if any support there is for different engine/transmission/transfer-case configurations there are. Then consider your mechanical abilities, what will you have to pay for and or get someone else to do. If you have problems and you deviate from the mainstream approach, how likely will you be able to resolve the issues yourself or ...are they even resolvable.

Yes I'm very aware that in the world of "hot-rod" and fabrication and "stuff" many combinations can technically work. But you want to consider what is known to work, because I presume you want to drive this thing and likely will be in remote areas and so forth and should something happen you would like a fighting chance to be able to fix it or get another part. Also of course who is going to fix this thing once you do an engine swap.

Take the time to read through the various engine swap threads on this board. You would be well served to replicate what has already been done and what you find support for. A simple search at advance adapters web site and some of the web sites dedicated to engine wiring harnesses would point to 5.3 or 5.7 engine and then also to either a GM transmission (manual or automatic) and then to various adapters that work with each and the LC transfer-case.

The LC has a fairly rigid finite space under the hood with some clearance issues on the left and right (frame) and constraints from the distance from the firewall to the radiator core and this applies to the known swaps with the 5.7 and 5.3. Another issue that seems to come up a lot is the front drive-shaft clearance at the engine or transmission.

My metric for swapping engines was fun, simply that. Along with the fact that I wanted a power-plant that I could walk into almost any parts store and have parts available and I was not dealing something where parts were discontinued. I think the best I have gotten in mpg is around 15 on the hwy or approx, in town it might be 10 or so. I checked all of that one time and that was to just see what it was doing.

Yes a carb setup is the simple approach I'm not here to argue the approach...if thats what you want to do then thats fine, pending your approach to use, I'm just offering that FI is a better choice pending use of the vehicle. Yes there are many modifications that can be made to the engine etc. I think a good logical approach is to run basically stock or potentially something that approaches a "towing" camshaft profile and works on regular gas. Offroad its a lot of low range 1st and 2nd gear depending on where you go, you just don't use the high end rpm power, you want low end power, in the low end of the rpm range.

You may have emissions issues depending on where you live. Remember its a good idea to replicate what others have done, where possible. Also a good idea to replicate cooling solutions and exhaust solutions that are known and likely mirror a stock OEM configuration where possible. People have spent some time and R&D on the 5.7 and 5.3 solutions...so there are known solutions between these two engine families and there are known combinations that make sense.

Read the threads from those who have done the engine swaps and those who have experience with them and own one and use it.

here is something to read, there are others too but very informative read.

 
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My input from someone with a Ranger: while it is nice to keep the driveline all in the same position, it really moves the motor forward a lot. This puts the oil pan very close to the front axle, no room for a mechanical fan, and in the case of a front intake engine like an LS, little space for the intake turn.
 
My input from someone with a Ranger: while it is nice to keep the driveline all in the same position, it really moves the motor forward a lot. This puts the oil pan very close to the front axle, no room for a mechanical fan, and in the case of a front intake engine like an LS, little space for the intake turn.
@RredFJ40 what engine are you using? I was a little worried about that for my plan, Ranger, 5.7 with a later serpentine set. I'd much prefer to use a mechanical fan and fan clutch over electric if possible.
 
I am a big fan of simplicity and availability of parts. Early Cruisers are built to run on the basics. My SBC 60 blew the diaphram in the fuel pump on a 1500 mile trip last month. Limped into a VatoZone in small town Arkansas and swapped the pump in less than an hour. No computer or diagnostic equipment required, just good old fashioned hand tools and knowledge.
I do like the LS swaps and some day may go that route in an 80 but for the 40 or 60 it will always be a basic Spark, Air and Fuel for myself.
I run heavily tweaked Edelbrock and Carter AFB carbs at altitudes above 13,000' every year without issues.
Bottom line, It's your Cruiser so build it how you see fit. Meet some folks that have swapped theirs and get the pros and cons to what they have.
 
Its an old Downey bellhousing. Trans and TC stay in the stock location. I bought my 60 already converted but have improved reliability and simplified as much as possible.

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Its an old Downey bellhousing. Trans and TC stay in the stock location. I bought my 60 already converted but have improved reliability and simplified as much as possible.

So it's just V8 / bellhousing adapter / trans / x-fer case? Still the 4-sp or upgraded to 5-sp?
 
Stock transmission bolts to the Downey bellhousing. Same crossmember and mounts. Bellhousing forward is Chevota motor mounts, and a fan clutch spacer. Distributor is a mother to get to though. If I ever swap anything it will be for a NV4500 adapted to stock TC. That should gain a good 5" forward movement to A. Move fan closer to the radiator. B. Give clearance for distributor and C. Have a lower first gear for offroad and OD for the Highway. My 3.70 gears and 35s allow me to easily cruise 75mph at 2800rpm.
 
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I am a big fan of simplicity and availability of parts. Early Cruisers are built to run on the basics. My SBC 60 blew the diaphram in the fuel pump on a 1500 mile trip last month. Limped into a VatoZone in small town Arkansas and swapped the pump in less than an hour. No computer or diagnostic equipment required, just good old fashioned hand tools and knowledge.
I do like the LS swaps and some day may go that route in an 80 but for the 40 or 60 it will always be a basic Spark, Air and Fuel for myself.
I run heavily tweaked Edelbrock and Carter AFB carbs at altitudes above 13,000' every year without issues.
Bottom line, It's your Cruiser so build it how you see fit. Meet some folks that have swapped theirs and get the pros and cons to what they have.
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NEW QUESTION.....

Ok, so a 4L60E trans is sounding more and more like a possibility. Total new guy question though; Would I need a 4WD model or is that taken care of by the x-fer case?

P.S. - LS swap sounds cool since I found a motor out of a 94 Corvette looking locally. If it says "Corvette" on it, my F.I.L will work on it until he drops from exhaustion! :D
 
Did you read through the engine swap thread I posted? off the top of my head the AA adapter that mates the GM automatic transmission to the transfer case ....takes a GM 2wd transmission. Which you should verify off the AA web site.... to verify the models supported. I don't know if the corvette transmissions have any unique issues or not.

that's an LT1 engine.... is it not (corvette)...with the opti-spark setup down by the harmonic balancer.... ???

Thought you wanted a TRUCK variant of the 5.7 or whatever engine?
 
1) I have read a TON of threads over the last day or two...they're starting to run together.

2) It's 10pm on New Year's Eve and some fine small batch bourbon may be interfering

3) I would only be shoving something stamped "Corvette" under my hood to mess with my F.I.L. He's a die hard Corvette guy and has been riding me for 18 years to "buy a good old American car like a Corvette"....while I have no issue with the principle, I'm not a sports car guy; sorry.
 
read up on opti-spark and see if thats what you want in an off road truck. I belive there are mods to do away with it, but there might be better choices to start with. If you are not aware...opti-spark is a basically the odd ball distributor setup on the LT1 engine that sits around / behind the harmonic balancer and your plug wires run down to this location. The issue is ....not so great for mud/water/crap from off road trails ....given your "distributor" is sitting on the low side of the engine. Likley would be major issue on creek/low-water crossing... FYI
 
read up on opti-spark....

Yeah..read about that yesterday. Seemed like an odd decision by the engineers, but they probably weren't thinking of water crossings. Looks like there was some aftermarket reliability improvements, but that doesn't change the general positioning. So many things to consider!
 
You can put the plastic Corvette engine cover of the aftermarket corvette valve covers on any engine you want
 

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