Considering a V8 swap...got questions (1 Viewer)

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You can put the plastic Corvette engine cover of the aftermarket corvette valve covers on any engine you want

And then you can spend 10 minutes getting your Land Vette perfectly centered in the parking spot that is 100 yards away from the next nearest vehicle.

(Inside joke. My GF bartends weekends at a winery/wine tasting bar. Last summer we watched a mid-life-crisis Corvette guy spend literally 10 minutes getting his car perfectly parked (Twice - there was something wrong with the first spot apparently) as trophy wife looked on. Spent more time parking than drinking his glass of wine.)
 
And then you can spend 10 minutes getting your Land Vette perfectly centered in the parking spot that is 100 yards away from the next nearest vehicle.

HAHA...sometimes if I’m just having a day, I’ll purposely park out right next to those guys and take the extra long walk inside.
 
RANGER OD OWNERS....

I can’t seem to find the comment now, but remember seeing someone mention on a thread that their ROD was great, but louder. It’s even clearly stated in the product description. Can any of ya’ll running one comment on HOW much louder? Have you done anything for noise dampening; if so how effective?

On my stock 60 I’ve done a basic sound deadening job with a single layer of 80mil butyl material...minus the roof. Between that and tightening up exhaust system connections, it’s gotten pretty quite. I’ve realized at this point I could only get it quieter if I could address the road noise you hear through all the glass; not happening.

Can the ROD’s increased noise level be similarly managed to an acceptable level? Granted, I’ve been around things that make big booms for 20 years, so it probably wouldn’t take much for ME to think it’s quiet!
 
RANGER OD OWNERS....

I can’t seem to find the comment now, but remember seeing someone mention on a thread that their ROD was great, but louder. It’s even clearly stated in the product description. Can any of ya’ll running one comment on HOW much louder? Have you done anything for noise dampening; if so how effective?

On my stock 60 I’ve done a basic sound deadening job with a single layer of 80mil butyl material...minus the roof. Between that and tightening up exhaust system connections, it’s gotten pretty quite. I’ve realized at this point I could only get it quieter if I could address the road noise you hear through all the glass; not happening.

Can the ROD’s increased noise level be similarly managed to an acceptable level? Granted, I’ve been around things that make big booms for 20 years, so it probably wouldn’t take much for ME to think it’s quiet!

have your door/window gaskets been recently replaced? that was probably the biggest difference in wind noise for me. going to try and go the extra step with the door seals i got from @TRAIL TAILOR this morning: 60 Series Replacement Door Seals
 
@RredFJ40 what engine are you using? I was a little worried about that for my plan, Ranger, 5.7 with a later serpentine set. I'd much prefer to use a mechanical fan and fan clutch over electric if possible.

‘99 5.3 LM7
 
RANGER OD OWNERS....

I can’t seem to find the comment now, but remember seeing someone mention on a thread that their ROD was great, but louder. It’s even clearly stated in the product description. Can any of ya’ll running one comment on HOW much louder? Have you done anything for noise dampening; if so how effective?

On my stock 60 I’ve done a basic sound deadening job with a single layer of 80mil butyl material...minus the roof. Between that and tightening up exhaust system connections, it’s gotten pretty quite. I’ve realized at this point I could only get it quieter if I could address the road noise you hear through all the glass; not happening.

Can the ROD’s increased noise level be similarly managed to an acceptable level? Granted, I’ve been around things that make big booms for 20 years, so it probably wouldn’t take much for ME to think it’s quiet!

I don’t have any sound deadening. I complained about the noise in a few threads but I’m starting to wonder if the real problem is the H41 that I “rebuilt.” Not sure deadening would help all that much as the gear whine is transferred right into the cabs through the shifters.
 
I know you said no LS swap, but all this research and back and forth and everything can be easily taken care of with a $1500 5.3 and trans pulled out of a wrecked 2wd Tahoe with throttle cable. Buy the adapter to the tcase, cheap external fuel pump, motor mounts, O2 sensors, some wiring connectors, and some elbow grease you'll be running. It's been done to death so all your questions have already been answered on this site. Sure, it'll rev a bit high at 70mph, but the engine can handle it.

That's the easiest.
 
It's interesting to hear the opinions on here. The folks who say they want simple want carbs. Unless you are the mechanic tuning your own carb it ain't simple.
Cold starts, flooded engines, running rich, inefficient... it goes on and on. You need someone who can tune them, and they are all over 70 now. So every day carbs are getting harder to maintain. SO it really is the opposite. Only simple if you don't want the best running engine you could have.

EFI on modern engines is much more reliable, it isn't new and we are hitting on 40 years of EFI in vehicles around the world.

I would not touch a carb. Putting in an LS or something nicer like an EROD or non emissions version, increases the value of a 60. Putting in a SBC with a carb devalues it a lot. Purists would rather have a 2F, and younger crowds would like a 60 with a modern engine.
 
have your door/window gaskets been recently replaced? that was probably the biggest difference in wind noise for me. going to try and go the extra step with the door seals i got from @TRAIL TAILOR this morning: 60 Series Replacement Door Seals

Yeah, my door weather stripping is not falling apart but does eem a bit compressed. Looks like the @TRAIL TAILOR upgrade is mounted on the frame. Do you remove the seals on the doors or just leave them and add this to the frame?
 
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Yeah, my door weather stripping is not falling apart but does eem a bit compressed. Looks like the @TRAIL TAILOR upgrade is mounted on the frame. Do you remove the seals on the doors or just leave them and add this to the frame?

My door seals attach to body side and help tighten up and reduce wind noise. Rear hatch/gate is a replacement for OEM.

J
 
You can always go with a carbed V8 and then sell the carb and do a Holley sniper install.
You can, but that's where it's added cost. Getting a take out, used engine with low mileage with all the system on it is where you save.
 
hey FJ Noob, how's the swap decision making going? just curious

It’s a lot to consider. Just trying to clearly define what I want this thing to do and attaching dollar signs to the different options.

I think the only definitive decision that’s been made so far is blue with tan interior:rofl:
 
It’s a lot to consider. Just trying to clearly define what I want this thing to do and attaching dollar signs to the different options.

I think the only definitive decision that’s been made so far is blue with tan interior:rofl:

Yay, that’s my oddball color combo too! Seriously, who at Toyota thought blue/brown was a good color combo?
 
Yay, that’s my oddball color combo too! Seriously, who at Toyota thought blue/brown was a good color combo?

I agree about the Toyota choice, but since all rules are out the window on this one I'm opting for a darker navy blue and some shade of brown interior.
 
My door seals attach to body side and help tighten up and reduce wind noise. Rear hatch/gate is a replacement for OEM.

J

So I would use your seals in addition to the OEM door mounted weather stripping? Much like the newer model vehicles that have seals on both the door and the body?
 
@RredFJ40 ... Did you install your OD? If so, you just had to cut a new pass-through hole in the trans hump correct?
 
@RredFJ40 ... Did you install your OD? If so, you just had to cut a new pass-through hole in the trans hump correct?
Yes I did. I used a bracket on the trans and linkage to the OD shift mechanism so the shifter comes up next to the tranny shifter.
Shifter straight off the OD would come up under the dash.
 
Yes I did. I used a bracket on the trans and linkage to the OD shift mechanism so the shifter comes up next to the tranny shifter.
Shifter straight off the OD would come up under the dash.

Did you fabricate that bracket or find it somewhere?
 

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