Considering a V8 Engine Conversion for My 1967 FJ40: Seeking Advice and Experiences

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I've been running a 350 since the mid 80's. The 1st one had cooling problems with the stk rad and a 500+hp sbc. A fan shroud did wonders. Currently it runs a fairly a stk 350, stk rad and proper fan shroud and straight metal fan with no cooling problems. My second 40 runs a stockish 350sbc/NV4500 and stk fan shroud and runs cool as cucumber. The NV4500 has a deeper 5th gear(27%) along with a taller 1st gear than the H55 and the SBC pulls it just fine. The 5 speeds are probably gonna require moving the tube crossmember directly behind the tcase. I was able to keep the crossmember with a stk 4speed/tcase. I would want to adapt 4 wheel disc brakes and power steering to make it an enjoyable driver. My concern would be the 67 stk driveline. Does the 67 still have ball and claw? The 3 speed is not as refined as the stk 4 speed or other trannys. Keep in mind if you go with a SBC/LS there are many more driveline options available as long as its overall lenght fits. Below is the SBC/NV4500. Mine are all carb'd.

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I've been running a 350 since the mid 80's. The 1st one had cooling problems with the stk rad and a 500+hp sbc. A fan shroud did wonders. Currently it runs a fairly a stk 350, stk rad and proper fan shroud and straight metal fan with no cooling problems. My second 40 runs a stockish 350sbc/NV4500 and stk fan shroud and runs cool as cucumber. The NV4500 has a deeper 5th gear(27%) along with a taller 1st gear than the H55 and the SBC pulls it just fine. The 5 speeds are probably gonna require moving the tube crossmember directly behind the tcase. I was able to keep the crossmember with a stk 4speed/tcase. I would want to adapt 4 wheel disc brakes and power steering to make it an enjoyable driver. My concern would be the 67 stk driveline. Does the 67 still have ball and claw? The 3 speed is not as refined as the stk 4 speed or other trannys. Keep in mind if you go with a SBC/LS there are many more driveline options available as long as its overall lenght fits. Below is the SBC/NV4500. Mine are all carb'd.

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Very nice! Is it possible to run something like an LS with an automatic and still be able to use the OEM Transfer Case and 4WD?
 
Very nice! Is it possible to run something like an LS with an automatic and still be able to use the OEM Transfer Case and 4WD?

You'll need to figure it out. A GM V8 is going the sit further forward by maybe 3 or 4", then you need to measure the length of the auto trans you decide to use, with the adapter, and the tcase that you decide to run. If I were to run a Toyota driveline or tcase, I would want to run the stronger splitcase instead of the 1 piece. My 1st 40 has had sbc's and a 454bbc at one point. Thru the yrs, It's run a stk 4speed/tcase, a sm420/dana 18 tcase and is currently running a dana model 20 tcase which is center rear output and a centered fj40 rearend. You have to measure it up, see if it might fit then make it happen. There's probably going to be some alterations to the 40. Keep in mind any swap has fixed costs, engine,l adapter, custom driveshafts and such. Once it's in, then it will nickle and dime you with little stuff, wire, hoses and clamps, belts, fittings, and small hardware, until it's running and properly engineered.
 
How much money do you have?
What are your fab skills and equipment?

LS engines are the easy button. Wide spread use with a saturated aftermarket.

I used PRLC to do the engine swap on my 40. It wasn't cheap, but they do phenomenal work.
 
How much money do you have?
What are your fab skills and equipment?

LS engines are the easy button. Wide spread use with a saturated aftermarket.

I used PRLC to do the engine swap on my 40. It wasn't cheap, but they do phenomenal work.

Money = Little

Fab skills and equipment = All of my equipment, welder, torch, air compressor, tools, everything was stolen years ago. And I used to have the skill, but after 25 surgeries and now tremors in my hands and legs when I'm trying to use them, I would have to have someone else do the work and I know labor is probably the most expensive part. Maybe my 14 year old and 10 year old could be my hands.

Sounds like I may just be stuck with the 2F and stick shift.
 
I have the original 3 speed, transfer case, and clutch parts in the floor of my garage. But when I bought the 2F it came with a 4 speed + transfer case + a mechanical Overdrive unit. So while on 1 hand my wife is probably right about using an automatic, on the other hand I'm very curious to play with that overdrive unit. It gives you 1st gear, 1st gear high, first gear low; 2nd gear, 2nd gear high, 2nd gear low; and so on. I think even reverse, reverse high, and reverse low.
Oh that might be an awesome combo! I wonder which overdrive it is??
 
@ceylonfj40nut and I beleive his sons fj40 called Pteradactyl has a v8 and a 3speed. He has good things to say about that combo. I had the 3speed and a 307sbc in my fj40 but I yanked it out to put a 2f I went back for a couple of reasons. I love a inline 6 engine, the v8 was poorly booger welded in, the engine leaked and needed all gaskets replaced including rear main. and honestly it bugged me that it was a SBC. I love the 2f especially when I open the hood. I used to think you should only see a toyota engine under the hood of a fj40 however my purestness has wained. I might have gone a different way if I were to do it all again - But if I found a 40 with a blown up engine I would get the Marks adapter that keeps transmission and transfer case in factory location - https://www.advanceadapters.com/marks-lc-v8-bhsg-conv-kit and put a holley sniper on the SBC. I think that would be a pretty sick combo. I do know that @ClemsonCruiser had a cool fj40 with a v8 and sniper he sold on BAT and it looked pretty awesome! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-25/
 
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25 or 30 years ago when I was building my '34 coupe with a big block Hemi, I found that the Sanderson Jet Hot Coated (aluminized ceramic coating) not only gained horsepower, but also lowered the temperature in the engine compartment a lot.
Is that the official name of it?
 
Very nice! Is it possible to run something like an LS with an automatic and still be able to use the OEM Transfer Case and 4WD?
I bought a LS3 5.3L with the 2wd 4L60e automatic with overdrive for $1700. 92k miles. Do not get the 4wd transmission because it will not work with the Advanced Adapters stuff. I am running the original 3 speed transfercase and using the original parking brake drum.
Have about 500 miles on it in the last 2 weeks. Will cruise on the freeway at 70 at 2100rpm on 33” tires. Only problem is a knock sensor code that keeps coming back on deceleration. Will probably have it deleted from the ECM. And yes I know the pros and cons.
I absolutely love it.
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Getting about 17 miles per gallon so far and I’ve had my foot in it because, well, it’s a party.
 
I bought a LS3 5.3L with the 2wd 4L60e automatic with overdrive for $1700. 92k miles. Do not get the 4wd transmission because it will not work with the Advanced Adapters stuff. I am running the original 3 speed transfercase and using the original parking brake drum.
Have about 500 miles on it in the last 2 weeks. Will cruise on the freeway at 70 at 2100rpm on 33” tires. Only problem is a knock sensor code that keeps coming back on deceleration. Will probably have it deleted from the ECM. And yes I know the pros and cons.
I absolutely love it.
View attachment 3725811
Getting about 17 miles per gallon so far and I’ve had my foot in it because, well, it’s a party.
GREAT photo!!! Love it! In my 1999 Gen 3 4Runner I had a little thing called "FIXD" that I bought for $19. Designed by 3 Georgia Tech guys, you plug it in to the OBD port and with their app you download you can see any codes, and clear them and any check engine light. You could use that. It was handy. And, you can quickly pull it out and use it in another vehicle.

Here is a link:

 
I have the original 3 speed, transfer case, and clutch parts in the floor of my garage. But when I bought the 2F it came with a 4 speed + transfer case + a mechanical Overdrive unit. So while on 1 hand my wife is probably right about using an automatic, on the other hand I'm very curious to play with that overdrive unit. It gives you 1st gear, 1st gear high, first gear low; 2nd gear, 2nd gear high, 2nd gear low; and so on. I think even reverse, reverse high, and reverse low.

Here is a short video of an FJ40 with an Overdrive, and if I can find it I'll include a 2nd one:



And here's that 2nd video I found, which looks like a LOT OF SHIFTING but kinda cool:



Just wish my hips & low back were younger and injury free.

😕
 
I have a regular old Bosch OBD2 scanner that does the same. It is possible to get a cable and computer software so you can tune the LS but I have no need for that. I can take it to a local guy and he can reprogram the ECM. When I bought the stand alone harness the anti theft codes were deleted.
 
I had a 1975 FJ40 from 1987 until last summer. I’ve had two 350 Chevys in it. The first was carbureted and the second was throttle body. For the first engine, I modified an aluminum Chevy bellhousing and mated the four-speed transfer case directly to it, utilizing a custom short throw clutch set up with internal splines to match the four speed transfer case’s input shaft. For the throttle body engine, I used a Chevy cast-iron bell housing with some internal changes to the stock transfer case and attached the transfer case to a granny low Muncie 465 trans with a custom adapter I fabricated.
If you are using purchased off the shelf components, your job should be much easier than the route I took. I fabricated motor mount brackets, a rear mount that attached to my adapter plate, linkage modifications, etc.
If you are fabbing your own components and deciding for yourself the exact engine location, it was helpful for me to use a bare short block to bolt things up and move them to the optimum location prior to welding the mounts in place. I recommend having some clearance to the firewall so that you can access the distributor, but that has to be balanced with keeping the cooling fan sufficiently away from the radiator.
I used the stock radiator for many years and never had an overheating problem, but I live at 6200 feet plus and my four wheeling is pretty much all above 5000 feet. I don’t know how I would’ve done in the south, for example. I always ran a healthy shroud which I made from galvanized sheet metal. Nothing fancy. I also used the biggest five blade mechanical Chevy pick up fan from that area with a fan clutch.
I’ve broken several small block Chevy motor mounts, but it never presented a problem on the trail because they have self securing mechanisms. The engine can move around a bit, but it was not a problem. Those are pretty easy to change.
if you are using a TBI engine, the best results will be to use an in tank fuel pump. I never got around to installing one and I had to make sure the hose clamps on the suction line from the tank did not loosen up. I’m sure that options bound for an in tank pump. I found one in a search through the 40 tech section being sold out of a car dealership back east somewhere that utilizes the holly sniper pump, complete with detailed directions as to its precise location so that your fuel tank cover will still fit over the tank.
Other build features included a four link rear coil suspension of my design that I built and installed in my garage, Saginaw power steering, A Blazer tilt steering column, Mazda sport bucket seats, full roll cage built by Redline Land Cruisers, ARB’s front and rear, and rock sliders I fabbed.
I know that many in our 40 community love the 2F and many love the small block Chevy. To me, once the Chevy went in, there was no turning back. Like someone said above, let the party begin.
I sold mine because I am getting up in years and my body is getting too creaky to work on my 40 like I used to. I found a nice low mileage equipped 2001 LX 470 and purchased it from a mud member. Sometimes I miss my 40 as it outshined everything else on the trail, but life has moved on for me and now I need the creature comforts and people hauling capability. Good luck on your build.
 
I did the 5.3 LM7 with a NV4500 5pd and Toyota 4spd transfer case. Build thread in my signature. I put the largest 2 pass, crossflow radiator I could fit and did a custom shroud mechanical fan. No overheating issues. I get 21 MPG highway and 16 or so around town. I towed a 2500 lb trailer 760 miles a couple of weeks ago over the Rocky Mountains and averaged 16 MPG while towing. I had a 2F, should have been an F, and no OEM seats. The 2F ran okay but got about 10 MPG. I didn't feel like trying to track down all the parts to make it as original as possible, so I went this route. Very happy I did.

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I had a 1975 FJ40 from 1987 until last summer. I’ve had two 350 Chevys in it. The first was carbureted and the second was throttle body. For the first engine, I modified an aluminum Chevy bellhousing and mated the four-speed transfer case directly to it, utilizing a custom short throw clutch set up with internal splines to match the four speed transfer case’s input shaft. For the throttle body engine, I used a Chevy cast-iron bell housing with some internal changes to the stock transfer case and attached the transfer case to a granny low Muncie 465 trans with a custom adapter I fabricated.
If you are using purchased off the shelf components, your job should be much easier than the route I took. I fabricated motor mount brackets, a rear mount that attached to my adapter plate, linkage modifications, etc.
If you are fabbing your own components and deciding for yourself the exact engine location, it was helpful for me to use a bare short block to bolt things up and move them to the optimum location prior to welding the mounts in place. I recommend having some clearance to the firewall so that you can access the distributor, but that has to be balanced with keeping the cooling fan sufficiently away from the radiator.
I used the stock radiator for many years and never had an overheating problem, but I live at 6200 feet plus and my four wheeling is pretty much all above 5000 feet. I don’t know how I would’ve done in the south, for example. I always ran a healthy shroud which I made from galvanized sheet metal. Nothing fancy. I also used the biggest five blade mechanical Chevy pick up fan from that area with a fan clutch.
I’ve broken several small block Chevy motor mounts, but it never presented a problem on the trail because they have self securing mechanisms. The engine can move around a bit, but it was not a problem. Those are pretty easy to change.
if you are using a TBI engine, the best results will be to use an in tank fuel pump. I never got around to installing one and I had to make sure the hose clamps on the suction line from the tank did not loosen up. I’m sure that options bound for an in tank pump. I found one in a search through the 40 tech section being sold out of a car dealership back east somewhere that utilizes the holly sniper pump, complete with detailed directions as to its precise location so that your fuel tank cover will still fit over the tank.
Other build features included a four link rear coil suspension of my design that I built and installed in my garage, Saginaw power steering, A Blazer tilt steering column, Mazda sport bucket seats, full roll cage built by Redline Land Cruisers, ARB’s front and rear, and rock sliders I fabbed.
I know that many in our 40 community love the 2F and many love the small block Chevy. To me, once the Chevy went in, there was no turning back. Like someone said above, let the party begin.
I sold mine because I am getting up in years and my body is getting too creaky to work on my 40 like I used to. I found a nice low mileage equipped 2001 LX 470 and purchased it from a mud member. Sometimes I miss my 40 as it outshined everything else on the trail, but life has moved on for me and now I need the creature comforts and people hauling capability. Good luck on your build.

Thank you. Great information. I hope I don't finally get in my 40 and discover I'm already at the point I should have gotten an LX 470 instead too.
 

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