Considering 100-series

[BuckleDown]

Hi, new to the forums, not new to Toyota (have owned a couple corollas, a taco and a rav4, looking at selling my 2013 wrangler and picking up a very clean looking 1998 Land cruiser. The seller is private party and has service records dating back to 2004, although they have only owned it since 2019. currently has 230k miles, last timing belt change was @ 180k miles. Besides taking a look at the under belly for frame rust, I live in northern VA and this area is very known for the immense amount of road salt used in the winters, is there anything I should pay any particular attention to? if the seller is open to it, I’d like to have a used car inspection done by my mechanic, which logistically will be very inconvenient because any work requires them to basically have a vehicle for the majority of the day.

I’ve been poking through this forum and like any forums, most posts are people asking questions about issues they are having, so on the surface all I’m seeing is that a vehicle of this age has a lot of issues. Not sure I want to inherit somebody else’s slowly sinking ship. Also this will be a daily driver putting on about 1000miles a month.

Also considering instead of the LC, a GX470 because I’m seeing mid 2000’s for about $15K

 

[bucfl]

Its a long list but well worth the read.

100 Series Newbie Guide - Slee Off Road

Our Newbie Guide for the 80 Series Land Cruiser proven very popular, so we decided to compile one for the 100 series as well.

sleeoffroad.com

If the seller is up for it, the mechanical inspection is a good idea. Good luck.

 

[BuckleDown]

What do you think the upper end of acceptable mileage would be when shopping for a 100 series or the LX 470? Considering this would be a daily driver putting on about 1000mi/mo

 

[D21FJ60]

Mileage is relative to the maintenance that has/hasn't been performed.
300k miles, no milestone maintenance, NOVA rust, $4k at most.
300k Miles, milestone maintenance done, minimal rust, $10k.

 

[ramangain]

Whenever there is any doubt, there is no doubt.

 

[Boss Hog]

I’ve been poking through this forum and like any forums, most posts are people asking questions about issues they are having, so on the surface all I’m seeing is that a vehicle of this age has a lot of issues. Not sure I want to inherit somebody else’s slowly sinking ship. Also this will be a daily driver putting on about 1000miles a month.

I am a recent first-time 100-series owner. I would say that this forum can be a little misleading in that people come on here to share or receive information about problems. But it’s in no way indicative of the overall reliability of a specific vehicle. It just seems that way because this is where we come to see if someone else is experiencing something similar or has fixed something that I need to fix.

That said, a 20 year old vehicle is a 20 year old vehicle. Things WILL come up.

 

[silver02accord]

Maybe that's not the one for you per se but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another 100. I have a well maintained 06 with 225k miles and really do not plan on ever selling. It just feels like a special vehicle. It's not my dd though and is slightly modified with ahc(which I love) intact.

 

[92LXAZ]

Have owned three 80's, an 06' LX, and currently DD an '02 LX I bought 2 years ago with 269k on it. This one is the best so far. Ridiculous condition, near perfect interior. Won't share what I paid for it as not relevant with the crazy world as it is. I may have missed the major repairs in it's life but the '06 was way more costly at 160k miles. Not really apples/apples however. Just sayin. Only thing that has actually failed is the alternator. I PM'd the heater T's and hoses and that's it. Pretty fortunate but they are overall reliable. I don't plan on fixing anything until it breaks, as the saying goes.

I'd get it if it's your best option. Price dependent of course as that wasn't state.

 

[FxFormat]

I have a shop in Herndon if you want to bring it by for a pre purchase inspection, i can look it over. These are reliable vehicles but at that age and mileage, expect to repair/replace a few things depending on how OCD you are.

 

[KliersLC]

My DDs for the last 10 years are as follows:

97 LC started at 175k, sold at 270k
98 Tacoma 320k
99 LC 260k
Wife's DD is a 2000 LX with 230k.

I have been stranded exactly zero times.

That said, the only downside with a 98 is that the LC version did not have rear AC until 99. If that doesn't matter to you, than it should be just fine. If your budget is 15k this is not the car for you, as you can get a lot more for your money. The GX is a great platform with the same engine and is very comfortable. The only reason I don't have one is because of the rear swing gate. I just like the lift gate and tailgate on the LC so much, I can't get over it. If I had 15k to spend, I'd pick up the nicest lowest mileage 2003+ non navigation LC that I could find.

For a DD, the 5 speed trans is better, if you don't care about that, the 2000 on up is just fine. I'd stay away from the units with navigation as it is a huge pain to swap out the nav system for a modern radio as the HVAC controls are integrated into the nav screen. There are some workarounds, but if you have a choice I'd go non nav.

Also, the AHC on the LX470 versions is really nice....when/if it works. So, if I had to choose between an LX with Nav and functional AHC , and an LC, all other things being equal, I'd take the LX.

My solution was to get the 4 speed version of the LX as it is a lot more widely available without the nav system pre 2003.

Hope that helps!

 

[KliersLC]

Last thing: Any particular reason you are looking for a Land Cruiser for a DD? We all love them here, but it really isn't the most practical thing out there. A 4runner, Highlander, Lexus RX, Rav4, Tacoma, or Venza are all more practical DDs...

Flame suit on

 

[2020 Rocks]

I DD my 98, but work from home. Other than trips to the hardware or school pickups it doesn’t get driven much….maybe 8k a year?

Edit: I’ve also done a ton or work to it for it to be reliable and safe, we use it to tow a 3200 lbs pop up camper a few times a year.

 

[unleashd]

First off, welcome to the forums. Another NoVA LX owner here.

Here's my experience.....
I bought my 2001 LX from a private party as well. The car came with Lexus service record from day 1 until about 2015 or so. I did not get a pre-purchase inspection done for a couple of reasons. I like to DIY most of the work and knowing that it is a 20 year old car, I was expecting some deficiencies and was ready accept them.

• If (Huge IF) you are not a DIY kind of person and relies on a shop for everything, I would suggest that you don't buy any vehicle that is more than 7-10 years old. They will all suck up your resources.
• Rust is expected to be found on all car around here unless they have been absolute mall cruiser / show builds. The level of rust is variable.
• Service records are really a great advantage for you to baseline, but I would still create a new baseline once you pick up the vehicle.
• Current market pricing is not a real indicator of the real value of these vehicles. I was fortunate to buy mine just before this bubble started and the seller was also very understanding when I showed him the deficiencies, and hence I was able to get him to agree to a far lower price than his asking price.
• If you are unfamiliar with what to look for in this (or any other) 20 year old vehicle, I would take up the offer from @FxFormat above or use your trusted shop to do the inspections
• As mentioned above, and a gazillion times on this forum, the LC/LX are not wallet friendly when it comes to fuel consumption. My commute (when I start going back to work) is only about 16 miles round trip. So, I may not be the best example. You may want to consider that as well. You may be familiar with this situation with that 2013 Pentastar as well

 

[JOSHD]

Honestly if I had to do it again, I would have gone with an 80 Series over the 100. Mine is just a toy/project vehicle anyways and I loathed the torsion bar suspension. We have a GX470 and a 5th Gen 4Runner and both have better aftermarket support, easier to lift, and just generally better to drive.
::Queue the AHC Snobs::

 

[87warrior]

What do you think the upper end of acceptable mileage would be when shopping for a 100 series or the LX 470? Considering this would be a daily driver putting on about 1000mi/mo

I purchased my '99 LC with 245k miles on the clock. It was also my first Toyota and I bought it from the original owners widow. I am now at 352k miles (15-24k miles/year) and will be leaving for a week of remote camping in the mountains with it shortly. As long as the frame isn't roached out from rust and you are willing to replace some wear parts over time, it will be fine.

 

[katit]

Last thing: Any particular reason you are looking for a Land Cruiser for a DD? We all love them here, but it really isn't the most practical thing out there. A 4runner, Highlander, Lexus RX, Rav4, Tacoma, or Venza are all more practical DDs...

Flame suit on

I guess it's personal but to me it IS DD car. Why would you want to drive cramped small car if you can drive LC? Commute is a part of life and it's OK to be in comfort and safety.
If you have LC but drive some cheap car daily to save on gas/etc - I'd say you can't afford LC. They are meant to be driven. Also, if gas is consideration - it is always smart to calculate how much more. Let's say your "other" car is $50 to insure. Will this $50 cover extra gas?

P.S. I do get it if it's purpose built off-road rig. But stock LX/LC is just perfect to drive around.

 

[jlm43]

Hi, new to the forums, not new to Toyota (have owned a couple corollas, a taco and a rav4, looking at selling my 2013 wrangler and picking up a very clean looking 1998 Land cruiser.

Also considering instead of the LC, a GX470 because I’m seeing mid 2000’s for about $15K

Welcome to the forum.

Go drive it then come back to the forum. If you don't love it, don't waste your money. Life is too short to drive something you don't enjoy. I have a 2014 JKUR as well and it's regulated to summer convertible duty. If the top is not down, it's just an SUV. And as an SUV, it kinda sucks. I love the looks of the new Tacomas but I would never own one as they are very uncomfortable to sit in. So I stick with my 2005 183k mile LC. Not having a $40k loan frees up a lot of money to pay for gas and repairs. As for the GX option, the wife has a 2017 and loves it. It is a great vehicle but I still prefer the LC. Something about the tailgate on the LC is just perfection.


V V V This is 100% accurate. V V V

If (Huge IF) you are not a DIY kind of person and relies on a shop for everything, I would suggest that you don't buy any vehicle that is more than 7-10 years old. They will all suck up your resources.

• Rust is expected to be found on all car around here unless they have been absolute mall cruiser / show builds. The level of rust is variable.
• Service records are really a great advantage for you to baseline, but I would still create a new baseline once you pick up the vehicle.
• Current market pricing is not a real indicator of the real value of these vehicles. I was fortunate to buy mine just before this bubble started and the seller was also very understanding when I showed him the deficiencies, and hence I was able to get him to agree to a far lower price than his asking price.
• If you are unfamiliar with what to look for in this (or any other) 20 year old vehicle, I would take up the offer from @FxFormat above or use your trusted shop to do the inspections
• As mentioned above, and a gazillion times on this forum, the LC/LX are not wallet friendly when it comes to fuel consumption. My commute (when I start going back to work) is only about 16 miles round trip. So, I may not be the best example. You may want to consider that as well. You may be familiar with this situation with that 2013 Pentastar as well

 

[KliersLC]

I guess it's personal but to me it IS DD car. Why would you want to drive cramped small car if you can drive LC? Commute is a part of life and it's OK to be in comfort and safety.
If you have LC but drive some cheap car daily to save on gas/etc - I'd say you can't afford LC. They are meant to be driven. Also, if gas is consideration - it is always smart to calculate how much more. Let's say your "other" car is $50 to insure. Will this $50 cover extra gas?

P.S. I do get it if it's purpose built off-road rig. But stock LX/LC is just perfect to drive around.

Oh, I get it. I commuted to the pentagon from Quantico for three years--1st year was in a 2002 camry, second two years in an 80. I liked being able to see over traffic, people wouldn't try to push me around, etc. But, just because I like it, and I personally DD a 100, doesn't mean it is an objectively practical DD. My philosophy is that we spend so much time in our cars, we should enjoy it while we are there, so I currently refuse to drive anything that doesn't "speak" to me when I drive it, except for utility reasons (hence the tacoma--I despise driving that thing).

My point is, that if you are going from a 2013 JK or JKU, there are a lot of vehicles that will be an improvement for a daily driver. The LC is one of them, but getting a 15 year older vehicle has associated sacrifices in technology, wear and tear, reliability, etc. A properly maintained 98 "can" be a reliable DD, but it takes a good amount of effort to get there.

 

[ramangain]

Reliable is a relative term.

BMW is way more reliable than, say, MG.

Nissan will be more reliable than, say, Jaguar.

etc etc

 

[FxFormat]

Oh, I get it. I commuted to the pentagon from Quantico for three years--1st year was in a 2002 camry, second two years in an 80. I liked being able to see over traffic, people wouldn't try to push me around, etc. But, just because I like it, and I personally DD a 100, doesn't mean it is an objectively practical DD. My philosophy is that we spend so much time in our cars, we should enjoy it while we are there, so I currently refuse to drive anything that doesn't "speak" to me when I drive it, except for utility reasons (hence the tacoma--I despise driving that thing).

My point is, that if you are going from a 2013 JK or JKU, there are a lot of vehicles that will be an improvement for a daily driver. The LC is one of them, but getting a 15 year older vehicle has associated sacrifices in technology, wear and tear, reliability, etc. A properly maintained 98 "can" be a reliable DD, but it takes a good amount of effort to get there.

I DD my Hundy for the same reason, i enjoy driving it, and i feel safe being inside. In inclement weather, this thing shines, mileage sucks but i'm not poor so it doesn't matter.