Consensus on Front Wheel Bearing Life (4 Viewers)

[whitenoise]

I'm getting ready to do the front wheel bearing repack + spindle greasing on my 03 LX. It has 112k on the clock and there's no evidence that wheel bearings were re-packed, although it could've been done at 60k service with the dealer. I searched the forum and there's way too much info + fragmented all over the place.

This vehicle has had an easy life before I got it at 80k, and even I haven't really "wheeled" it hard. Its seen a lot of dirt roads and a few knee-height water crossings though.

What parts do you guys think I need at this mileage?

Reposting @NLXTACY 's handy axle cheatsheet.

Snap Rings?
Axle Flange Gaskets?
Adjusting (lock) nut?
Lock Washer?
Claw Washer?
The bearings themselves?

Just order Cruiser Outfitters wheel bearing and snap ring kits, call it good?

Do I need the Slee special tool for spindle greasing?

Or just hope for the best and just repack?

 

[cmck]

I'm getting ready to do the front wheel bearing repack + spindle greasing on my 03 LX. It has 112k on the clock and there's no evidence that wheel bearings were re-packed, although it could've been done at 60k service with the dealer. I searched the forum and there's way too much info + fragmented all over the place.

This vehicle has had an easy life before I got it at 80k, and even I haven't really "wheeled" it hard. Its seen a lot of dirt roads and a few knee-height water crossings though.

What parts do you guys think I need at this mileage?

Reposting @NLXTACY 's handy axle cheatsheet.

Snap Rings?
Axle Flange Gaskets?
Adjusting (lock) nut?
Lock Washer?
Claw Washer?
The bearings themselves?

Just order Cruiser Outfitters wheel bearing and snap ring kits, call it good?

Do I need the Slee special tool for spindle greasing?

Or just hope for the best and just repack?

View attachment 1816653

My short answer: 100k, Bearings, grease and gloves, your done.

My experience is limited to a no issues situation. I did them along with a pads and rotor change since your in there.

I was able to reuse all the little parts by being careful during disassembly. You might have an oops and get stuck waiting for some tiny thing. Snap rings are the most fussy little things. I tried every screw driver and pick until I got a tool that worked.

After 400 miles I rechecked my preload tension. I did use a fish scale (FSM) but found the measure a bit ambiguous in practice.

 

[NLXTACY]

I'm getting ready to do the front wheel bearing repack + spindle greasing on my 03 LX. It has 112k on the clock and there's no evidence that wheel bearings were re-packed, although it could've been done at 60k service with the dealer. I searched the forum and there's way too much info + fragmented all over the place.

This vehicle has had an easy life before I got it at 80k, and even I haven't really "wheeled" it hard. Its seen a lot of dirt roads and a few knee-height water crossings though.

What parts do you guys think I need at this mileage?

Reposting @NLXTACY 's handy axle cheatsheet.

Snap Rings?
Axle Flange Gaskets?
Adjusting (lock) nut?
Lock Washer?
Claw Washer?
The bearings themselves?

Just order Cruiser Outfitters wheel bearing and snap ring kits, call it good?

Do I need the Slee special tool for spindle greasing?

Or just hope for the best and just repack?

View attachment 1816653

Ugh I need to finish that

 

[aging fleet]

I've been in the hubs a few times either to service bearings or replace rotors. I haven't swapped out my bearings or races because they look fine and aren't making noise. If you want to replace yours to simply start with a clean slate, go for it, but you may find they have more life left.

While in the hub, I've always replaced the oil seal, flange gasket and the snap ring. The snap rings come in varying thicknesses so it's nice to have a variety in the garage. The lock washer and claw washer can be reused as long as they're not damaged (I've replaced mine, but not every time the hub is apart).

I've heard nothing but good things about @cruiseroutfit 's products, you should be good if you go that route.

 

[aging fleet]

Ugh I need to finish that

I have a spot on the garage wall waiting.

 

[87warrior]

The Slee tool makes greasing the spindle bearing very simple. The first time I did bearings I used the Slee tool and scoffed at how simple it was. During my last service I removed the spindle to replace ball joints and got a good look at that silly spindle bearing. It was packed well with the grease I used last time. That made me a believer. I don't believe you could get the same results by jamming a needle fitting between the spindle and CV and pumping grease in there.

According to service records, the bearings I replaced at 300k miles were original. They were loose and pitted but showed no discoloration. My cruiser initially had an easy 246k miles of toting around and insurance salesman since new.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

At 112k you're likely just due for a repack. But, you could get Cruiser Outfitter's kits and have them on hand for when you open up the hubs, if you find scoring or problems, then you have them ready to go. If you end up not using them, go another 100k and then replace.

And for the spindle bearing, there's a great PVC cap write up you can use alternatively.

 

[gr8erimage]

I just replaced the front bearings at 200K. After a good cleaning, it was hard to differentiate the old bearings from the new.
The most worn item was the claw washer.

Definitely replace everything between the hub flange and the bearings.

You'll have full access to the spindle bearing when you remove the knuckle. You can give it a good cleaning and repack when it's out. I believe the Slee tool is for greasing the bearing in place.

 

[2001LC]

If not pulling steering knuckle (I like to first time in. Too recondition along with inspecting, clean and greasing & needle bearing & bushing. This includes replacing oil seal in back of knuckle 90316-A0001 and new Cotter keys for ball joint nuts that have been pulled).

You'll need:
Solvent (De-greaser).
Tub of grease (wheel bearing grease, is a high speed grease)
Oil seal 90311-70011 (you can reuse if in perfect condition, but best practice is to replace)
Locking washer 90215-42025 (can reuse old, if two tabs that have never been bent are found in usable position)
Hub Flange gasket 43422-60070 (these are often reusable if carefully removed)
Hub flange Snap ring (likely will need a "D" which is 2.4mm 90520-31007, possible a "C" 2.6mm 90520-31006)

Some extra to consider:
Claw washer will most certainly be scored on inside if wheel bearings have never serviced properly. You can flip good side in, scored out.
Hub flange teeth may be worn and cone washers may be scored. Replace these is a nice touch.
FSM states hub flange nuts not reusable. I do reuse most times, but add a drop of blue lock tight.
Grease cap if any damage around the lip. You want a water tight seal.

 

[whitenoise]

Awesome info everyone. Thank you! I dont drive this vehicle in the winter so thinking to just do the spindle bushing for now with the PVC cap method. I need brakes probably within the next 2-3k miles so will probably end up doing complete front corner service at that time.

 

[mrahc]

Wow, another thread answering some questions I've had. While I'm here, do the experienced recommend replacing the whole CV joint while doing brakes/bearings (also, hub replacement) or should I just "tidy" it up and put new boots/clamps/grease on? I've no history on my truck... I know one CV boot isn't in good shape, so I assume the other is probably on its way out as well (178k, gonna be winter driven).

I'm probably just gonna go ahead and replace everything to have a clean slate but the more opinions the better. Basically, I assume replacing CV is easier while doing all of this stuff than later?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

The fastest way to grease the spindle bushing

How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

As for your bearing preload fish scales are for fish. Torque the bearing preload to 25 ft/lb rotate the wheel a couple times in both direction check the torque and never look back until next time.

 

[2001LC]

The fastest way to grease the spindle bushing

How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

As for your bearing preload fish scales are for fish. Torque the bearing preload to 25 ft/lb rotate the wheel a couple times in both direction check the torque and never look back until next time.

This may be first time we've disagreed.

Where one can just torque to 25ft-lbf, it's my experience this will leave good or new bearings way to loose. Test will be at next 30K miles service. If claw washer scored at that time, bearings were set to loose.

I've tried just torquing to 10ft-lbf, 20ft-lbf, 30ft-lbf without a pull scale. Each of those claw washer was scored, with 10ft-lbf scored the most 30ft-lbf the least.

When I use the factory prescribed method, claw washer is in near perfect condition at 30K miles. The reason claw washer become scored is loose bearing chatter/vibrate. This create heat and can damage bearing, races and spindle. Additional this chatter combined with excessive hub flange snap ring gap creates a sawing action on axle and hub flange teeth warning them prematurely. The wide gap also pounds on snap ring, hub flange and axle end retain grove.

Most shop do not use a spring scale to set breakaway preload, nor do they check snap ring gap or replace them. It just to time consuming. It also ensure future high dollar repairs!

FSM has it right and is best practices

 

[Lucky Strike]

Here's a link to greasing your spindle bearings with a pvc cap.

How-To Video DIY Spindle bearing greasing tool w/o touching wheel bearing preload

 

[whitenoise]

The PVC cap idea is fantastic... Under $3 to replicate.


My next question is this: Is the spindle and wheel bearing grease recommendation the same? FSM says MP grease for wheel bearing but makes no mention of spindle bushing.

 

[2001LC]

Actually it is not, they recommend NGLI #1. But we use the same NGLI #2 wheel bearing grease for both.

In 2001 manuals:
Synthetic oil & lithium soap base chassis grease…….Owner’s manual page 268 (Thrust bushing)
Synthetic oil & lithium soap base chassis grease……..FSM Vol2 SA-22 & 23 ( bearing & bushing)

Note: Wheel bearing grease is a high speed grease.

 

[gr8erimage]

I keep it simple. Mobil 1 synthetic grease.
I use this for bearings, spindle bushing, and drive shaft slip-joints/u-joints.

Available in tubs and tubes at Autozone.

 

[apdxyk]

I have seen an LX470 with no front repack after 90k at 380k miles. The man actually came for the front brake job, but he refused the repack. Brought his rotors and pads, not cheap ones, btw. "Just put it on, it's ovebuilt for my purposes". This one case doesn't make statistically valid sample population size, of course. But they do exist in the wild. That happened at my buddy's shop.

 

[2001LC]

To put on front rotors, the wheel hubs come off and bearings come out. So technically that is a bearing job. Done properly is another issue.

 

[nissanh]

To adjust the wheel preload see 4 minute mark onwards on How to rebuild a toyota 4x4 solid front axle part 8 by lowrangeoffroad. I followed the same method (except I used 20 Foot pounds at 4:55 minute mark [they show 4ft-lb]) on my 2000 lC and Hilux 1990 and so far bearings are tight and spins as it should.

Unless there are scuff marks on bearings dont replace oem toyota bearings. Those front cone bearings can run 300k + miles with proper care.