Computer shift read out conflict.

[DirtDawg]

I'm still puzzled and am putting the blame on the shop. The matter of the fact is that you had all gears when going in, and now you only have 2nd.

And you do have a tranny temp sensor, regardless what this shop tells you.

 

[Chalky]

Ok I believe you where is it?

I suspect I have a wiring short so will check that first. Then check sensor fro plug if I can find that.

Yes I think the whole thing stems from shoddy shop work. I have not paid and will likely not pay.

cheers DD

 

[Chalky]

Hi all
OK DirtDawg it seems you are absolutely correct.

I have found evidence of a sensor in the wiring Diagram and it measures resistance. Too much or too little and the ECU does something. Looks like second gear only.

So a short or broken wire/connection in that circuit would certainly make a difference.

On that matter I don't get it if the transmission oil is running hot surely limiting the travel to second is the worst thing you can do as it just means the revs are higher and then more heat????

Cant find the physical sensor anywhere? I have found evidence that later LC trucks have the sensor as part of the wiring loom in the transmission associated with the valve body assembly. That circuit wiring was out yesterday and I saw no evidence of that. I might have missed an innocent thermo couple I suppose.

Any ideas - anyone. It is a 1999 100 series LC

Regards Chalky

 

[Chalky]

Hooray my official 1999 Electrical Wiring Diagram manual arrived all the way from JFK.

And yes as DirtDawg said the ECU uses an output from the Automatic Transmission Oil Temperature sensor.

Great half way there.

Now in some editorials it says that the P1745 fault code is the AFT Temperature sensor number 2 circuit malfunction. And I have been looking for this part which according to some suggest I have 2 units in the valve body itself QUOTE

• ATF temperature sensor No.1 (THO1) is used for hydraulic pressure control. This sensor is used for revision of the pressure that is used to apply clutches and brakes in the transmission. This helps to ensure smooth shift quality.
  
  
• ATF temperature sensor No.2 (THO2) is used as a basis for modifying the ECT shift timing control when the ATF temperature is high. It is also used for the ATF temperature warning light.
  

But when changing the solenoids I had no wiring associated with such a temperature sensor or sensors.

MY new EWD says I should have a transmission wiring loom two pin plug known as A7 and this connects to the A/T Oil Temperature sensor which suggests it is an externally mounted removable plug type sensor.

I am stumped. Inside transmission or externally mounted??

regards Chalky

 

[Chalky]

Well today I found the transmission oil temp sensor and whilst the required measurement of 79 Ohm minimum and 156 KOhmn maximum could not be confirmed it was working.

Now having confirmed all contacts, wires and pin to pin connections including all earths and all solenoids are checked and working I was and am stumped.

Still the truck would not move out of 2nd gear unless I selected "L" which forced it into 1st.
Also I am still getting the computer conundrum between Shift reading and actual gear engaged.

So now I am thinking that when the idiots removed the valve body they put back wrong or missing something.

Any idea where I should start looking or thinking?

When they removed it they did not take apart and they only blew all pressure lines to check clutches etc.
Given that they failed to insert the pipe in the picture properly

I am thinking that they have missed or forgotten something else. Maybe a little "o" ring or something stupid like that.

cheers all
Chalky

 

[Chalky]

Hi all and DirtDawg

well I have had the valve body out and checked everything. Wasn't happy with some of the o rings on the accumulator vales so replaced them and checked all the springs etc. and put back. It went back nice and i am fully confident that the gearbox is not the issue.

The only thing left is the ECU and I am now trying to find out if I have the correct ECU in the car. I suspect that it may have been changed and now that I have returned the wiring to a proper original setting I suspect that the hash-ups I discovered and corrected now means that the computer have is not able to work properly.

Does anybody know how to establish the correct computer (ECU number) perhaps using the VIN number. Is there a site or place that carry's this detail??

regards All

Chalky

 

[Chalky]

Ok failed on all attempts to establish the validity of the ECM type. So drove the ruck home IN 2ND ALL THE WAY. Not a good feeling but once moving on a hill these trucks go along way in neutral.

To get a sensible solution I have sent ECM away for testing and if necessary repair.

Will re-commence hard knock and diff lock issues when Computer is back.
hopefully this will cure the shift conflict and cure the 2nd gear only issue????


Also have found out why the Diff locks (rear and central) Overdrive /D and some other instrument lights were not coming on.
Yes you guessed it I had no lights in them and even worse no light holders. Got second-hand one from scrap yard.

regards to you all
Chalky

 

[jLB]

Let me see if I understand correctly...

Started out with a 1999 flood damaged vehicle

Immobiliser issues
Fuel pump bad ground
Center/Rear diff lock issues


Took it in for service for a clunk/thud when changing gears (but transmission was working fine). Shop mis-diagnoses this as a transmission issue instead of a "drivetrain slack" issue.

Prior to this issue:
The transmission has been replaced
ECU has been rebuilt


Went down a rabbit hole, when the diagnostic tool that was being used, showed what was perceived as conflicting gear position data, on what was a working shifting transmission.

shop partially disassembles transmission to diagnose

Adjusted the shift linkage

Drove the car and now only get 2nd gear

Dropped the pan

found loose wiring harness, bent dipstick tube, unattached breather tube, opening at bell housing that should have a cover, (1) bad solenoid

re-connected harness
re-bent dipstick tube
attached breather tube
replace solenoid
replaced pan and refilled

Received P1745 error.

Checked trans temp sensors.

(Received 1999 EWD)

Pulled valve body.

Shipped the ECU off for testing.​

---------------------------------------------------

Maybe I'm just not imaginative enough, but I think I'd start out by acquiring the following tools:

Techstream/mini-VCI cable
1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Repair Shop Manual Original Set
1996-2004 Toyota 4WD Auto Transmission Overhaul Manual A340F A343F

and try walking through the factory diagnostic procedures to see if I could isolate the source of my problem(s) before I did anything else. If the vehicle was flood damaged, I suspect these items will pay for themselves many times over.

 

[Chalky]

Wow JLB,

Brilliant excellent "in a nut shell" summary.
And to add

Replaced the missing instrument lights (and holders) and fixed bad earths and fixed driver side integration unit and Fixed passenger side integration unit.
Have pin to pin pretty much checked all wiring associated with the sensors of the car.
Also replaced leaking radiator and fixed leaking A/C pipework.
Also had front drive axels and ball joints overhauled and greased front and rear axels and replaced rear axel U-joints (spiders).

Have ordered new O/D switch as that was not working and could not get second hand. Also had to order the little protective cover for the transmission/thrust/torque convertor access area as mine was missing.

On my list while the car is waiting ECM testing/repair is to pull the CDL and Rear diff lock motors and check their condition.​

Thank you for the great advice I will look in to it. I have a lot of manuals/extracts & downloads and various Youtube links for many of the issues.

My fear is that the computer comes back with no fault found. It was working and I see no reason why it would suddenly throw the car in to limp home 2nd gear mode with no fault code being shown. It did at one time show a solenoid fault and it was replaced with a new one. All position sensors are working and speed sensors working.

If you manually instruct (using the computer testor) to throw the solenoids you can hear them work.
So waiting for ECM test before giving myself more headaches.
But any ideas you may have I will glady receive

regards Chalky

 

[Chalky]

Ha rear diff lock motor removed and apart from a real struggle with the stupid cross head screw bolts all looked well but the reality was something else. More to come.
Chalky

 

[Chalky]

After managing to get the crosshead screw bolts off (broke one head and had to drill that out) and clean the whole thing and re-assemble with proper nut head bolts. I tested the motor and nothing. Took apart again and found that 2 magnets in the motor cover had come unstuck from the cap/bell housing and had moved to join the other two. I didn't notice that at first as they were securely in the wrong place because of the magnet power and it looked tidy.
So removed cleaned a re-glued. Re-assembled and motor working fine. Will put back today try to tackle the CDL.

ECM arrived at test/repair shop. waiting ......... now for feedback.

Chalky

 

[Chalky]

Well for those who are following this storey.
I was reading up and checking that I had aligned the diff lock motor gears using the very useful info on here. I could not remember when taking off the diff lock motor having to remove a nut from the "locking" spindle that goes into the diff. Anyway made sure motor was good and decided to fix back.
Got under the truck and sure what is not there?? no fork for fixing to the motor spindle and therefore no diff lock facility at all.

here is a pic of my motor ready to go in and a pic of the vacant space where there should have been a diff lock fork.

Well cant move the car and don't want to strip the diff myself so have put back motor and sensor.
Will have to wait for ECM and then to the Axel shop to find out what is going on.

So annoyed I could not be bother to attempt the Central diff lock motor.

regards Chalky

 

[DirtDawg]

Still following man. Sorry you're having such bad luck.

 

[Chalky]

So hi all

studying the manuals and paperwork it looks like I am not just missing the fork from the locking mechanism i am missing the locking engagement ring thingamy jig/whadayacallit piece. Now this is going to be a real pain for me to get here. The fork is simple it is in stock with Toyota but the ring locking piece is not.

regards Chalky.

Still following man. Sorry you're having such bad luck.

Thanks DirtDawg
not sure luck has anything to do with it just crappy previous ownership and basic care.

 

[Chalky]

So hi all

studying the manuals and paperwork it looks like I am not just missing the fork from the locking mechanism i am missing the locking engagement ring thingamy jig/whadayacallit piece. Now this is going to be a real pain for me to get here. The fork is simple it is in stock with Toyota but the ring locking piece is not.

regards Chalky.

So hi all

studying the manuals and paperwork it looks like I am not just missing the fork from the locking mechanism i am missing the locking engagement ring thingamy jig/whadayacallit piece. Now this is going to be a real pain for me to get here. The fork is simple it is in stock with Toyota but the ring locking piece is not.

regards Chalky.

Thanks DirtDawg
not sure luck has anything to do with it just crappy previous ownership and basic care.

Thanks DirtDawg
not sure luck has anything to do with it just crappy previous ownership and basic care.

ta for the thoughts

 

[Chalky]

Well bit the bullet and ordered the so called Sleeve differential.


Had to order from US for delivery to Aramex and then on to Middle-east.
So may have it in 8-10 days.

cannot get my head around why it is missing? Perhaps its not and I just cannot see it and it is hiding in there. cannot risk that though as stripping the diff to find out it is not there will be a catastrophe. I will order the missing fork from toyota as that is in stock.

regards chalky

 

[DirtDawg]

Theres no way any of those parts are still in the diff right?

 

[Chalky]

Ha I hope not. Cant see them so i imagine not.

 

[Chalky]

Ok plucked up courage to go for the Central Diff Lock motor.
Dropped the central diff with aid of jack. It did not come down as far as I thought so still a bit of a wiggle to get the CDL motor out.

So after getting into the unit and only breaking one screw bolt head off (so more corrective action needed) here are pics of what greeted me.








Ugly EH?!

So the good news is that the contact makers and breakers were ok.

The motor winding is burnt out and a consequence of that is that the plastic that partly mounts the brush holders has melted. This means the brushes are fixed in.

So I will be off to have motor rewound and brush holders repaired.

Now the real issue is that the breather connection pipe which is plastic is broken off so the breather pipe cannot connect. I'll have to figure out a fix for that. Here is a pic or two for you.





You can see the hole on top pic and the little area that looks like it is sticking out but it is not as it is moulded on the other side - otherwise it would be easy to re attach the breather pipe. No such luck.


Looks like I can drill the hole wider and insert/glue a tube so that it sticks out and I can re-attach the breather tube. was thinking that some old cleaned out ball pen ink tubing might work metal/plastic and will glue easily with super glue. Not sure yet.

Now while I was under there I could feel the cog that turns to engage lock position. And according to all advice I must put the motor back with both central diff and motor in locked positions. I could not turn the cog by hand.

Any advice??

regards Chalky

 

[Chalky]

Heard from the ECM repair guy he says that the control Chip that commands the solenoids is blown.

Strange that as it was working and unless somebody has caused a short I cannot see why the computer chip would have blown.

Anyway I have to suck it up and get it repaired. No choice.

regards Chalky