Clutch replacement 350 4 speed with Downey Bell housing (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 16, 2019
Threads
36
Messages
82
Location
Defiance Mo
Hopefully I will be able to articulate what I am looking for from the collective expertise on the forum. First for everything here. First FJ40, first time replacing any clutch, first time dropping a transmission, first ever forum. I am a novice mechanic but can get things done. Thank god for youtube.

What I have:
72 Fj40 with a 350 GM conversion. Toyota 4 speed tranny not sure the transfer case but pretty sure its the original. I think most of the FJ is a 75 actually with a 72 body. From my research the conversion is a Downey.

The Problem:
Lost my clutch out of the blue. I was driving and pressed my clutch to shift down. Thought i was in neutral but truck died then I couldn't out of 3rd gear. Eventually after clutching it in and out several times I got it into 2nd and limped home. lost the clutch 2 more times on the way home. So I decided now it's time to learn how to fix it.

Where I am at now:
I eventually dropped the tranny which sucked doing it by myself, but the beast is out. Bell housing and transfer case all attached to the tranny. I plan on replacing the seals and gaskets on the transfer case since there are leaks. I think the tranny is working just fine. Also I am going to replace the clutch and pressure plate. Replace the rear main and do what I need to do with the fly wheel. New slave Cylinder.

Needing advice on:
Transfer case. Any heads up or advice/guidance on getting it off the tranny and replacing the gaskets and seals.I was gonna get the parts from SOR. It seems straight forward but that always tends to bit me in the arss down the line.
What clutch and pressure plate set up is best for this 350 conversion? I ave no clue, never done one before and here is a lot of info to digest out there.
I found the Downey 350 conversion instructions and it looks like its almost all Toyota parts except the throw out bearing hub. I dont see any damage but should I replace the throw out bearing? I think the throw out bearing is Toyota.
The fork was also on the driver side when the instructions say it should be on the right side. Should I move it to the right side? If so, how do i set up the slave cylinder hose to reach to the other side? Or does it matter what side its on? The slave cylinder rod was broken because of the angle it had to operate at but always seemed to work. I will get a new slave cylinder also. I was thinking of getting the after market slave cylinder on the cheap compared to the original.

What else should I do or can do since I have the tranny out?

Anything advise will help. really looking forward to learning from everyone out there. I can provide picks if needed. Thanks.
 
Welcome to Mud. Pics are always helpful.

Paging @Downey
 
#2 thread: Not sure if it was the hydraulic system. This is first manual vehicle and I had no idea where to stat to diagnose. I could certainly replace the entire system to make sure though. I always wanted to take on something like this to learn and challenge myself.

#4 thread: I was driving at a low speed and was coming to a stop so I thought I shifted into neutral so I could roll through the stop but the vehicle died like one does on a poor shift and clutch work. Started the FJ again and was stuck in 3rd. Had to clutch in and out several times to get it into neutral then was able to get it into 2nd. On the way home when I needed to turn or slow down I would depress the clutch and it would die. would clutch it in and out to get it into neutral to start it up then into 2nd to get home. Decided to tear her up after that.

Thanks for all the quick responses. Didnt expect this. freaking awesome.
 
Pics

orange crush.jpg


pressure pale .jpg


Tranny.jpg


Bell Housing.jpg


transfer case.jpg
 
Well you’ve come to the right place! Getting to work on these rigs and learning how to fix your own junk is a great way to do it.

It sounds like your clutch wasn’t disengaging when you put the pedal in hence staying in gear and stalling out. Classic signs of hydraulic failure in my opinion. That’s a pretty easy fix. But now that you’ve done all the hard work and removed the transmission you might as well address all the hardware if your budget allows.

Pics as suggested will help everyone get an idea of what you’re dealing with. Starting with the tranny/transfer, clutch slave mount (and angle) on the bellhousing. You never know what kind of stuff previous owners bolted on in its previous life.

Posted pics, thanks!
 
First I’d like to know who picked up the tranny/transfer and bellhousing and set it on the table. Ha ha.

Jim @Downey (and many others) should be able to ID all the parts you’ve got in your setup. Lots of different ways to do the V8 conversion so some parts are intermixed. The clutch pressure plate looks like a centerforce clutch but it’s been awhile since I’ve messed with one. Toyota slave for sure. Mount is possibly an old Downey but it really doesn’t matter. You can make one pretty easily once you determine if it needs a better angle.

If it was all back together there are quick easy tests for the hydraulic parts but that’ll have to wait. Probably worth replacing both anyway.
 
Hey Don Smith; Father in law with the table lift, great guy. The budget is ummm how can I put this, the wife doesnt need to know kinda budget
 
In the last pic with the clutch fork it looks like the slave pushrod end is jammed into the seat. That’s supposed to stay with the pushrod and rest loosely into the groove with the spring. They do wear with a lot of use but not sure I’ve seen one stay in the seat firmly. No big deal as the new slave should come with a pushrod and end.

Well if you want to just get it on the road you might be able to get away with just the clutch master and slave and put it all back together. That’s a lot of extra work for something that may have been super simple but I think good experience either way. I’ve got dropping a 4 or 3 speed tranny down now where it doesn’t bother me at all but it used to take forever.

Now that it’s out you should remove the pressure plate and take a look at it and the disc. Price out the following and see where it lands in your not to be discussed budget and go from there:

Toyota or Aisin master cylinder
Toyota or Aisin slave cylinder
Clutch pressure plate and disc
Throw out bearing
Pilot bearing
(Confirmation of which ones you have from members or get whichever kind you prefer) Some vendors are much more familiar with the V8 conversions than others. Advance Adapters should be a good start but as suggested @Downey would be a good resource and a real cruiserhead with more knowledge than I’ll have in 3 lifetimes. Use the search function for member name and you will find him. Start a “conversation” from there.

Lots of friendly online vendors to choose from for the Toyota parts and you should be able to get 20% off list prices through some. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters is a great vendor.

Good luck and I’m sure the east coast peeps will start responding in the am.

EDIT: You’ll most likely want the flywheel resurfaced too if you replace the disc and clutch plate.
 
Last edited:
Ok, I'm here!!!
1. You have the newer style Downey bellhousing, it was made for the 4 speed tranny, but since all 4 speeds had the shift fork on the passengers side, we machined ONLY the passengers side for a slave cylinder mounting bracket. Who ever did your conversion simply did not re-route the slave hose over to the passengers side. That means what ever your slave cylinder mounting was, it was home made, and wrong. I'm going to attempt to attach a photo here to show how to build a simple slave cylinder mounting bracket that lets you mount the slave cylinder on an angle so that it points directly at the shift fork.
2. If you do need a new clutch, I recommend my Downey "Chevota" Clutch, and here's why: A Chevy clutch takes .500" travel (at the T.O. bearing) to disengage, and your Toyota clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder produce only .450" of travel. Even the LUK clutches many on Mud use takes .420: of travel to disengage, so it's operation out at it's ragged edge. My Chevota clutch takes only .375" of travel to disengage- - -so there you have it.
 

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This is good stuff, thanks for the quick response. I did a quick search for that clutch and wasn't getting the results i expected. Is this this set up something I can get through you or online?

Any tips on routing the slave cylinder tot he passenger side? Are long hoses available and just run it along the firewall?

Is the the replacement of the gasket and seals for the transfer case pretty straight forward?

I got the diagram to pull up, looks easy enough, I can get guess the dimensions from the space of the holes compared to the slave cylinder.

Can't say enough how great this forum is.
 
Ok, I'm here!!!
1. You have the newer style Downey bellhousing, it was made for the 4 speed tranny, but since all 4 speeds had the shift fork on the passengers side, we machined ONLY the passengers side for a slave cylinder mounting bracket. Who ever did your conversion simply did not re-route the slave hose over to the passengers side. That means what ever your slave cylinder mounting was, it was home made, and wrong. I'm going to attempt to attach a photo here to show how to build a simple slave cylinder mounting bracket that lets you mount the slave cylinder on an angle so that it points directly at the shift fork.
2. If you do need a new clutch, I recommend my Downey "Chevota" Clutch, and here's why: A Chevy clutch takes .500" travel (at the T.O. bearing) to disengage, and your Toyota clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder produce only .450" of travel. Even the LUK clutches many on Mud use takes .420: of travel to disengage, so it's operation out at it's ragged edge. My Chevota clutch takes only .375" of travel to disengage- - -so there you have it.

Sorry still figuring out how to work within the forum.

This is good stuff, thanks for the quick response. I did a quick search for that clutch and wasn't getting the results i expected. Is this this set up something I can get through you or online?

Any tips on routing the slave cylinder tot he passenger side? Are long hoses available and just run it along the firewall?

Is the the replacement of the gasket and seals for the transfer case pretty straight forward?

I got the diagram to pull up, looks easy enough, I can get guess the dimensions from the space of the holes compared to the slave cylinder.

Can't say enough how great this forum is.
 
My company (Downey Off Road Mfg.) was in business from 1970 to 2009, but with no more Downey, no more catalog or web sight. I do run an Ebay store, but I don't put the Chevota clutches in that store (too specialized), but I probably should. Just get ahold of me if you want one of my Chevota clutches.

You might consider running a whole new hard line from clutch master cylinder to clutch slave cylinder mounted on passengers side, you'd just have to be able to double flare the fittings (we use to make the hose for this when Downey was in business).

Yep, replacement of gaskets/seals straight forward, and design of new slave cylinder mounting bracket super simple.
 
When I installed the V8 in my '74 using Jim's @Downey kit for a 4 speed transmission I purchased a 3 or 4 foot straight brake line at O'Reilly Auto Parts and ran it across the firewall and down on the passenger side of the engine. I used a tubing bender to follow the contour of the firewall. Just select one by the correct fittings on the ends...
 
tlc762 is spot on, they do make 3 to 4 for brake lines with metric fittings already installed- - -easy deal.
 

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